Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Yes, I did a job with some helpers and I think some stones went through, or maybe it was just time. Anyway, blades smashed up and main bearings broken but new blades, bearings and belts (while at it) for a few hundred quid. Job easy to do myself and apart from the bulletproof Honda engine there is almost nothing else to it. One of the things that put me off the £3k roadtow chippers is the amount that could go wrong in all the hydraulics, engine etc. At that price point I just feel they've had a long hard life and could easily need a lot spending.
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Variable speed controller box thing
Dan Maynard replied to briquette_seller's topic in Maintenance help
Let me know if you need more help/advice. -
Are you going to spray or something like that using lots of air? If you draw down slowly I think you'll find that one of the machines must have a slightly lower trip on the pressure switch so effectively it will do all the work. If you draw enough air then the common pressure goes below the switch point for both so they both cut in. I don't think a non return valve is really needed either, but you might want to put some isolating valves so that you can take out one compressor without draining both tanks, depending on what's on the outputs. That valve says hot/cold water so I wouldn't use it personally. Look for something by SMC, Festo, Norgren eg https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/pneumatic-positive-pressure-vacuum-non-return-valve-function-fittings/8497231/
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I carefully avoided the phrases extra length, bigger blade, longer strokes, easier wrist action etc. Waste of time. It is the old story though, there is a different ideal tool for each situation but also good to travel light - have to find a compromise.
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Pretty powerful, I drive my M500 up ramps into the trailer, admittedly that's lower than a pickup so I would say you'll need long ramps. Needs a bit of encouragement if raining or tyres slip on the metal but I guess that's more a problem with the ramps than the M500.
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I have a 330 zubat which I modified to 270 by pinching the tip in a conifer hedge, being tight I have just ground the end to a round profile and carried on. I don't miss the extra on smaller branches, it's the 3 inch or over where I notice, especially like you said topping cut on spindly pole on a windy day. I'll be going back longer on the replacement blade even though I've recently bought an MS150 so silky not out as much.
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I don't know if the Chinese ones have hour counters?
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Variable speed controller box thing
Dan Maynard replied to briquette_seller's topic in Maintenance help
Spot on as above, motor inverter. You can get them powered by single phase supply or 3 phase, but 16A motor is quite big and in the larger sizes the 3phase ones are cheaper so if you can then go that way. I've built factory automation, these things tend to have a list price and then deep discount for machine builders, unfortunately RS tend to be the upper end of range as you pay for convenience. I have a pillar drill and lathe running off inverters which came from eBay, there are quite a few resellers who dismantle old machines and flog the bits so I would definitely look there. I would also suggest a big red isolator switch in a box, you can buy these lots of places even Screwfix. -
He's not pretending to be the sensitive type with a good sense of humour then.
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I believe a load of low grade softwood from our local wood went to be chipped for horse bedding, must be slightly better price than biomass. Grantham somewhere I think, depends where you are as you obviously need to account for haulage cost.
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I haven't done as much milling as these guys but 70cc and lo-pro bar has done ok on up to 24" softwood for me so easily do the 14" stems you are talking about. I have bought a Husqvarna 365 and have to say it is a lot of saw for the money, although just over your £500 by the time you've bought the bar. I believe it's old style reliable Husky and fairly low stressed as it's basically a detuned 372xp.
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I think the trouble with boarding and working on the roof is that if it cracks and there's a big cleanup bill your insurance company might say that's not accidental damage, you've been walking around on it all day and that was entirely avoidable. To me it's mewp or crane, whichever is easier.
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100% made in Italy?
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I have made a chipboard box just to try for size, got a twin wheel barrow for stability. It needs an extra piece to stop the chip going over the barrow (wheelie bins have a lid). Did work ok and easier to wheel on grass, easier to tip as well. I concluded the idea works but the box needs to fold flat for transport, and chipboard doesn't look professional whereas a wheelie bin does. The wheelie bin is good to tip over and scoop sawdust into, and store tarps in the trailer after the job, but the barrow is better for timber so the idea isn't dead yet. Everything a compromise, it's better to travel light and yet better to have everything with you just in case.
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I bought a Bahco one from Clark Forest, cheaper than Stihl but has been great. Definitely a proper one.
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Do you have 2 saws then and hoping to use the same chain? I would suggest Oregon, and maybe visit chainsawbars and watch all the videos about identifying chain and how to sharpen before deciding what type of guide/sharpener to get.
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I've trimmed or pruned all the trees in our garden over the last 2 days. This is good because I'm outside enjoying myself, and also getting brownie points for working on the garden.
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Job description/What they mean (Just for fun)
Dan Maynard replied to Mick Dempsey's topic in The Lounge
"not much use" always makes me laugh, if it's not much use then I'll buy something else more useful. -
Merry Christmas everyone! Better get off arbtalk or there'll be trouble.....
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Bloody hell, that happened fast.
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... and when they argue about why she keeps losing them she hasn't got a leg to stand on.
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Nice cup of tea in my hand... When I was doing CS39 I talked about which units to do next, my trainer thought CS32 isn't much use in domestic arb as if you get a bigger tree you would pick up a bigger saw. But I don't see any units at all allowing you to use a 25" bar. I guess I'm saying the idea we only do things which are on the certs is flawed at several levels. Portfolio of past work seems to me the best way to demonstrate competence.
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I think you'll find 15" will be 50cc saws on the whole so maybe you will be a bit underpowered. My thought is that if you are actually going to do larger trees after the course then you will want a bigger saw and a 7900 would be an investment. Best plan either way though will be chat with training centre you choose, if you borrow a saw would give you the chance to try out different sizes - 7900 will take a bit of getting used to compared to 4300 as it's a big step up in weight and cutting forces.
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I keep pondering this, for 3.5 ton towing 4x4 that isn't huge I keep coming back to the conclusion that a Landrover 110 is the sensible option. But then I think 'sensible option' and Landrover surely don't belong in the same sentence?
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Not sure it worked on that pine either, looked just like the hinge broke normally to me. What are the targets apart from the wall? I'd have more faith in a winch line, maybe drop down the back of the tree and get clear before pulling it over.
