Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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This is the spur, I'm going to buy the Schultz effect and look at SRT seriously while I have a bit more time.
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I had some Scots pine like this, the stuff that was unsplit took in a mouldy look down through the timber. It burnt fine though (once dried), seemed more a discoloration rather than decay of the wood structure. I don't think there is much you can do apart from get it split and dried as quick as possible, once it is dry any decay will stop anyway. Perhaps the ideal is to spread it out more so it gets the sun but that would obviously be a lot of hassle emptying the ibcs. Can't remember the exact thread but someone on here posted a research paper about commercial forestry use of Scots pine as a crop and the blue mould tendency was one of the major barriers.
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Patrick, Educated Climber website/channel is also worth finding. Good knot tutorials.
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I owned a Marlow rope, used it dismantle a tree with chickens living at the bottom, in the rain. Never could get the smell of chicken shit out of the rope. So yeah, I don't like Marlow ropes either. XTC solid choice.
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I would have said our arb rope is generally kernmantle though, the word comes from German Kern=core, Mantle=sheath. As opposed to older style braid or twisted rope.
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I've only briefly used a Spiderjack, had a couple of hours on a zz. I definitely wouldn't rush to the Spiderjack if you can't try one first, they are definitely love or hate (I didn't love it). Using the zz was ok but didn't persuade me to give up the hitchclimber. I'd wait, the chance to try them will come along.
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Switch from years of petrol to aspen will leave the rubber hard, that's a known issue due to the effect of the petrol. Afraid it possibly needs carb service.
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Scots pine a menace for mould. Is it recently felled? Nice sugary rising sap not a help.
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I would email the manufacturer and ask for an official opinion. Maybe they won't answer but worth a try, it's a safety question. Ideally you would have a small torque wrench and check the bolts periodically, taking them out and in isn't quite the same.
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How big is it? I'm finding it difficult to get a sense of scale. If you can't move the arm to put it on a pillar drill then may be a case for mag base drill. You can hire them if you don't have access.
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Good choice. Dolmar/Makita 7900 with 20 and 24 inch bars will be the answer to your next question. I've just seen FRJones have started to list them.
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15 minutes per bundle?
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I don't think a bit of surface mould will be an issue, maybe turn the pile over to bring the worst ones up to the top while you are putting the pallets in. The thing is that around a third of the weight (up to half for some woods) that you have put in the shed is water. If you think of it as several bathfuls that's got to get out of the shed then you can see the need for ventilation. Possible the existing vents could be ok if they are opened, you might have to force the airflow though. Does it smell damp? If there's really no choice on location, maybe some small DC fans would be good, that would be relatively cheap and quiet so could be left running all the time. This is what people have to do with kilns.
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If it's dry it's dry, can be less than 9 months if it's hot and dry weather. Cedar is just fine from what I've burnt, quite light once it's dried out. When you say seems to go ok, can you see it hissing as the logs start to burn?
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I've only used the ZT at work once and had to be real careful to avoid slipping the belt, apparently the tensioner is a weak point. Has he done anything to the tensioner, may be that's the root cause?
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Welcome to the forum. I reckon polyurethane without sanding is a waste of time, and sanding enough to completely strip the varnish so that you can successfully oil to fresh wood would be quite a big job and maybe difficult to get looking even colour right to the edge. I'd go for option 2 and see how it goes. Only potential problem I can see is where the current varnish looks pale may be lifted, unless you remove the old layer then the new varnish will just sit on top and still look pale. May need more sanding than you think.
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I have a 36" low-pro which I ran on my 365 before conversion to 372. Maybe it will go faster on 385 but because it's only cutting say 28" it is within range of the 70cc saw. If I remember I was working off the saw/bar combination on RobD where he suggests longer bar possible with low-pro. I just haven't done enough milling to justify to myself buying a bigger saw.
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I bought a Jet winch from L&S, I think to be honest those winches about £200 are all the same inside made in China. I believe the Tirfor patent ran out so the copy ones are fairly new on the market. If you're using it occasionally then they work ok, I figured buy from someone reputable in case of problems rather than someone random off eBay. Having said that, I have seen more of the ex-hire genuine tirfors around since and with my time again might get one of those.
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I think Husqvarna fit Oregon rims as OEM anyway.
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If there's bare metal when you wire brush I would put a couple of coats primer on there before the hammerite. If the mot man fails it for corrosion you'd be better off knowing and getting it fixed anyway, surely?
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Anyway, this is what I did. The strange looking bit in the middle is sound, there is some strange shadow in the photo. About six feet down the main stem had some decay, I think looking at the rest it had been cut there before so I took it back to that point and then shaped in to match.
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I think I am partly the victim of being too lazy to type enough to say what I mean. What I mean by not tolerate pruning is that the wood is susceptible to decay, they aren't brilliant at occluding cuts and sometimes sprout really unattractively after being pruned or have limbs die off. And what I mean by drawing the line is not to advocate pontificating, but take a different approach and do more work explaining to the customer pros and cons and maybe push back against work which could cause a lot of rot. In contrast I had a eucalyptus and a hawthorn on different jobs last week, no problem whacking them as hard back as the customer wants, will be fine. I have agreed a fell and replant with some birch but they were a funny shape with little to cut back to, and easy fell across the cul-de-sac on a Sunday morning.
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To be fair to them, just received another email from the same vendor apologising and explaining that they couldn't get hold of gel through normal routes so had to go out and buy it from an obscure retailer at elevated price, hence as cost price was high it got sold on at high price. I think they're decent people, trying to get hold of sanitizer because people kept asking for it.
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Likewise, we had some re-rating done years ago and turned out it went down as the toilet not rateable area. Sorry I can't see them doing anything in a rush. Having said that, if you don't ask you definitely won't get.
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Predator 360 (New) v 460 (used approx 100hrs)
Dan Maynard replied to Therebel's topic in Large equipment
Yep. I guess it depends where you are, some areas in town can have narrow gates and tight turns.
