Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Ah - finally somebody corroborating what I was told which was get rid of the rim/spline and fit spur! Maybe I'm not totally bonkers.
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I think you've got 2 years to fell it anyway, so could claim you're doing it slowly.... More seriously, in a CA you don't exactly have permission to fell but rather you have notified the council that you intend to fell and they have decided not to put a TPO on the tree to stop you. I can't really see that they would want to put a TPO on to prevent you from reducing if they are happy for it to be felled, but I guess really a question to check with the TO. Best case would be an email, then you're covered.
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It says 4km/h in the book, although I've never tried to time it over a distance.
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Oh, you wouldn't want me bringing my old beat up chipper and showing up all your shiny new ones..... Then again, I'm up for it. We all learn something whatever happens, maybe I should be buying a new chipper because new ones are better? Definitely wouldn't be a proper chip-off without a JoBeau there.
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I think your best bet will be to go up a thread size, tap it out and then turn up an insert from a stainless cap head. Loctite that in with the permanent retainer grade. Assuming you can get use of a lathe of course....
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Yes please. How does that work?
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You'll be quicker over 100m downhill I reckon I'd beat you uphill with my M500.
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They weren't real sandwiches before. Now he's 'recorded it all on his smartphone' they exist properly. Another fine piece of investigative journalism.
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This looks a little bit like the small Timber wolf design, which is ok if the material is straight but the entry to cutters is roughly square. The small drum type chippers (Greenmech, JoBeau, Peruzzo, Haeksler etc) chip about the same max diameter but the chute and blades are much wider so small forks will go down and get cut. I don't know if your prunings are straight, may not be an issue.
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Similar to you I thought it is expensive and I don't use it every day, so I went secondhand. I actually don't know how old mine is, multiple owners, but everything is repairable and it's pretty strong anyway. For me this is a reason to avoid the cheap Chinese ones, the established brands with spares backup hold value well so after buying something like CS100 you can sell it again a few years on, cost of ownership per year then starts to look good.
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I think M500 is more than that but I bought secondhand.
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Likewise M500 solid bit of kit, bigger engine at 24hp is one reason I went for one.
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Well, not really a chair, nice textbook fell using Danish pie and wedge but main fork was weak with included bark so it split with a big bang when it hit the ground. No, I was not near it, yes I did jump a bit.
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I would definitely be interested in a piston if the price isn't silly. It's been a good saw, although to be honest I use it less now I've got a 461. Taken down a few trees with it though, thought a pic would be nice.
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Where did you find a 6800 cylinder? I thought they were all used up? I have a Dolmar 6000i which I bought from shavey, could ideally do with a piston but if I could get a bigger cylinder I'd put it on...
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I think RobD on chainsawbars has some offers on the making and breaking tools at the moment, worth checking out if it would apply to you. That would be Oregon chain though.
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I've seen pneumatic jockey wheels on boat trailers in the past so you can definitely get them, not bought one to be able to recommend something specific though.
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I designed our fireplace, seem to remember the regs focus on distance to combustible materials and doesn't sound like yours are.
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Maybe hydraulic rather than PTO?
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Work have a 150 and a 230. No snedding with the 230, massively better at dragging in and crushing forks.
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I've got a 2010 year 261 and never had a problem with needle bearings, I think it's a good saw. I was advised years ago to take off the spline/rim drive and fit a spur type clutch drum because of the bearings, obviously difficult to say if it would have been ok if I hadn't.
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One of the T-piece photos on ebay has a laser engraved mark of PA6 on it, this is the material code which is nylon-6. According to Direct Plastics the nylon has a long term operating temperature range up to 100C whereas PVC only 60C - I would be nervous about using PVC on a heater outlet. https://www.directplastics.co.uk/data-sheets Not sure where that leaves you though, seems it's possible to get nylon pipe but difficult/expensive - maybe steel exhaust pipe is the best option as spuddog says - you could get the T cut and welded up and also weld any brackets or fixings you need on to it?
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I used Stanley Jetcut to build green oak fence, panel saw was fine on 3" posts and rails but obviously going to be hard work on sleepers. The teeth are tri ground like a Silky but cut when you push.
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Chap at work has the larger saw (different name can't remember) which also has coarser pitch, he also says he would rather it was a bit finer for smoother cuts when pruning. My Zubat is 7.5 which I would stick with for a replacement especially given what you have said.
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You haven't listed spark plug but you must have changed it?
