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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. Can you do that end first? Any knot I can think of lets string out of both ends as it tightens and so will be loose inside the balls. Otherwise you want something like tent pole elastic so you can pull some out before knotting and then it will pull back when you let go.
  2. Back to the original question definitely not a silver birch. I recognise them. Could we have a picture of the ground around the tree? See if it drops walnut size beech nuts?
  3. 349 euros per day is ok if you can knock out a couple of 700euro stumps, though. Or one at 700 and a couple of smaller ones. You've got more in your back pocket and less aching shoulders at the end of the day. Tricky to take for a week though, you'd need a lot of stumps lined up and of course need to look after the teeth.
  4. It's hard to tell from the photos if there is a risk of unbalancing the whole thing by cutting off all the weight from one side. I guess it would be a more precautionary approach to remove one stem, leave it a few years, then take another. I wonder what the long term future is for a three stemmed oak anyway? Will the stems grow into each other and split it apart? I was wondering if you look at that as a coppice tree that needs harvesting every 50 years then now is your turn. Just make sure to build a good cage around so that the regrowth isn't eaten off by deer or rabbits and then there will be a similar multi stemmed oak for someone else to harvest in 50 years time. This should definitely be done in the winter if you decide to do it.
  5. I believe 5.5 is the traditional size for 3/8 and still is recommended for Oregon and Husqvarna chains. Stihl dropped their size down to 5.2. So they're both right in a way. You can open the 'drop a file size for the last part' debate if you like, I think this is related. As above I tried Rotatech and gave up, no point having good saws and crap chain.
  6. I don't think the cost seems miles out, was a monster. I think if I was faced with the same I'd be hiring a bigger machine just for the day and then hopefully get round a couple of jobs. That way should make just as much in a day even with the hire charge, and not put as much strain through the old shoulders.
  7. I had a customer whose neighbour had an Alianthus, when I mentioned the seedlings in her garden/path/patio she really went off on one. Apparently she was a bit fed up of digging them out.
  8. Welcome to the club! Sharp blades make all the difference. I work on the theory a bit like a chainsaw or penknife, if you give it a light sharpen often then it keeps the edge and doesn't take much doing. I lift up the hopper and give it a rub with a diamond sharpening pad every few hours chipping (ie every few jobs). Leather gloves else I cut my finger (which I've done a couple of times). Yours is possibly already too blunt for this to work, could be worth whipping them out and having a go, but hand sharpening works best if you start with new ones and keep them sharp. I also don't like chipping dead stuff, blunts too quickly, and am scrupulous about keeping brash clean. But that's just me.
  9. I'm reading Oliver Rackham's History of the Countryside. Thousands is the most likely answer, depending on where you live a swathe of the country was replanned but even then many of the ancient paths remained.
  10. Is this where it tore out? Seems like there were four branches coming off the same spot, I wonder if it had been previously cut at that point and then all the sprouting left on. Maybe worth looking closely for other previous pruning effects.
  11. The word comes from the Scandinavian snäddare, meaning a smooth log via the Old English "snaedan". This is from Wikipedia but I've read something similar somewhere else, just can't remember where. Is it right?
  12. They've brought out a new narrow chain that is .325, may be worth a look? Supposed to be 20% faster, of course I just bought two of the old chains. Light 04 is the bar, obviously you still need to change bar to suit narrower gauge.
  13. Good result. Didn't agree to take the rest of it down then? Give it a few years....
  14. I think it depends on hours as well as age, and there is also a sort of lower price it doesn't go much below as long as it chips. At least that's my impression of the 150 valuation curve. I guess the other way is ask for a trade-in price when you get a quote on the new chipper and see if you prefer the low hassle low risk option.
  15. That is simply astonishing. I'd be coming off ebay too. I've just left you a couple of positive reviews, I guess like a majority of people who are happy I don't normally leave reviews but twats like that leaving negative feedback need some countering.
    Concrete all the way to tip site, loads of room so they will always have space. There is a small charge but will take any mix of green including logs, rakings, chip, hedge cuttings, grass etc. Suggest ringing to check opening times, generally open early in the week, Saturday morning, closed Sunday.
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  16. I have a 12 foot trailer with ramps to run the chipper out, so I would just run the trolley up the ramps. I don't own an arb trolley though so can't try this out easily. The problem I do have is 12 foot trailer and Defender can make small driveways a bit of a game, not a tight turning circle.
  17. This bushy mess of elder and bramble goes all the way along the side of the house. Parked the chipper by it, all fitted in one bin (not the one in the picture) So I also reckon you get a lot in the bin compared to what you can drag. I'd have to check my bin capacity, bigger than normal home refuse ones though. I'm also with you, long uphill drag on soft ground is a pain with wheelie bin. I experimented with large wheelbarrow and greedy boards but not really enough volume. Ton bag on an arb trolley? Not tried that.
  18. If you have no starting point and a Teufelberger rope then I would suggest Teufelberger friction cord will work OK. For 11mm rope I would use 8mm friction cord, so probably try Sirius and OP. You have about 25-30cm in each fisherman's knot and 50-80cm in your VT depending on how many wraps etc (also varies depending on the diameter of each rope) so you need something like 1-1.5m for a friction cord. If you buy 5m of a couple of types of rope then you can probably make 3 of each, starting with a piece 1.5m long which will need trimming down. Start with the Sirius and have a go, it's around £1.50 a metre so not a disaster if you have to throw a bit away or make short prussic loop out of it.
  19. The only other recommendation would be to buy a few metres of some different cords and try them out, you will need to vary numbers of wraps until you get comfortable so pre-made eye to eye are a really expensive way to start out. Thicker cord for thicker rope. And VT is where I think most people end up because you can change the number of wraps to suit your weight and the rope grab, enough bite so it locks but not so much it binds.
  20. Keep all the mess in one area and avoid the long drags is where the wee chipper wins, keep it simple idea is the wheelie bin. Once you're done you can strap it on top of the chip pile so it doesn't take up any chip room. Also great for sawdust/rakings.
  21. Exhaust smoke or wood smoke? Bit of wood/chip jammed and rubbing?
  22. 30 degrees top angle.
  23. Ah yes, if someone's being paid then it's H&S at W/PUWER because it's a workplace. Employers liability insurance needed even if volunteers helping, and they need to be competent for the tasks being carried out.
  24. Sorry read title again. Somerset. Ignore me.

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