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Silverhooker

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Everything posted by Silverhooker

  1. Silverhooker
    £500+ VAT seems a bit expensive for what looks like a fancy bottle jack with a wedge on the end or am i just a bit too tight ? (I'm Scottish).
  2. Silverhooker
    Very cold with sleety rain in North Cumbria.
  3. Silverhooker
    They used to sell scavenger tickets from the forestry commission, so people could go and do what you are talking about, sadly this hasn't been available for a few years, guess the H&S stuff just did it in.
  4. Silverhooker
    Or flog yourself senseless, with the branches of the tree you just split, in the mixed naked sauna!
  5. Silverhooker
    Cumbria is tier 2. Can't wait for the barber to open up as currently I look a wee bit like Doc Brown from back to the future !
  6. Silverhooker
    my pick too.
  7. Silverhooker
    I cut mostly larch and sycamore and the big rounds fit inside the tyre whole and once split can easily be lifted out in a oner and chucked in to the barrow. Smaller rounds i put 2 or 3 at a time inside the tyre, keeps all the split bits together and cuts down on "log shrapnel" and reduces bending over to pick bits up. works well for me but everyone has there own way.
  8. Silverhooker
    On a block inside a tyre, then lift the whole lot out in a oner and drop in the barrow. Works for me.
  9. Silverhooker
    Thanks I’m really impressed with the work hedge layers do, it’s art really !
  10. Silverhooker
    Lovely job ! How long do you estimate before you would need to re-do a hedge after a job like that ? (Just for my education)
  11. Silverhooker
    I got an Estwing splitting wedge a couple of years ago, the one with the lugs at the top, and it has it's uses but not often. ive hit it with a variety of mauls and hammers and it hasn't mushroomed, seems like a decet quality product. 80% splitting with splitting axe. 19% with maul and only tiny amounts with wedge as the return for the effort put in isn't worth it sometimes. Rarely noodle with the saw either as I don't like doing it from a safety point of view, just save up the big chunks and put them whole in the fire pit.
  12. Silverhooker
    Ouch !
  13. Silverhooker
    I’ve broken several grenades, they aren’t very good. Sounds like you need to get yourself set up with a maul a proper splitting axe and a few odd wedges for the awkward stuff. I’ve a Wetterlings large splitting axe and a husqvarna maul, have the block at a good height with a tyre attached to catch the shrapnel and then just I just hand load in to a big plastic barrow. Really crappy bits I either chainsaw if I can be bothered or just burn whole in the garden fire pit as they often aren’t worth the time and effort !
  14. Silverhooker
    Fell, stumpgrind and re-plant, a nice ornamental rowan with the yellow/white berries would be nice.
  15. Silverhooker
    No one is having a go at you, we’ve all made daft mistakes that we just about got away with, just trying to stop you doing anything silly and dangerous. I’ve learned loads from guys on this site the best tip was listen carefully to people who know what they are doing and keep safe.
  16. Silverhooker
    Thanks I’m going to try to be more fungi observant when I’m out and about from now on. Could anyone recommend a decent cheap field guide ?.
  17. Silverhooker
    Found this under some large beech, I haven’t a clue what it is !
  18. Silverhooker
    Had a 365 for a couple of seasons now, goes great no issues. I understand it can be fettled in to a 372 but I’ve never felt I needed it done. I just do wind blown not full on forestry.
  19. Silverhooker
    Have to agree with the mantra that "chainsaws don't take prisoners". Really wouldn't get to deep in to this sort of stuff on your own, best to take it to a local chap that knows what he is up to, my local repair chap is only too keen to give me a wee tutorial about what he is doing and I've learned loads from him. Saws are easy to replace, hands, eyes etc are much more difficult.
  20. Silverhooker
    I mostly do wind blown and also agree that a mix of saws are needed. I use a 440 with 13” bar for branches and a 365 with a 20” bar for most of the cutting and keep a spare 24” bar for oversized bits. A good bill hook, and a range of wedges axes and mauls help too.
  21. Silverhooker
    I've a couple of long and short log tongs, which i prefer to a pickeroon. I struggle with golfers elbow on the right and tennis elbow on the left and using tongs instead of having the impact from the pickeroon has helped. Just took a wee bit of practice with the tongs. My pickeroon was home made from an old broken axe handle with a coach bolt thru the end, bent to shape and ground to a point. local chap who taught me how to sharpen made it up for me.
  22. Silverhooker
    Took me ages to learn how to hand sharpen, have never used electric since, and you can do it out in the woods. I was taught by a local chap who taught me more in 1 hour than years of YouTube videos and manuals.
  23. Silverhooker
    I don't mill much, but what is the cc or power out put of the saw ? As an11. 5" bar will only be good for milling kindling ! I alway thought that big high torque saws with big bars was what was needed to mill.
  24. Silverhooker
    Have you seen “Fargo”.
  25. Silverhooker
    Soaked to the skin but no chance of a flood.

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