adw
-
Posts
2,220 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by adw
-
The gold circle is the oil tank breather, it is a sintered plug, try just turning the oil pump flow down, it may just be too much oil for a short bar.
-
Circle? where are you looking? post a picture, once the clutch is off you should then have the sprocket and bearing, behind here is the oil pump worm gear driven by the back of the sprocket.
-
Do not put bloody rope in the plug hole, refit the plug and jar off against the compression of the saw!
-
Illustrated parts list
-
Yes screw driver in one of the cut a ways in the clutch swift smack with a hammer, make sure the plug is in so as you have good compression to jar against, the screw you have missing goes into the front av mount, so needs replacing, you cannot remove the base plate without spending a lot of time, removing car and tank etc, once the clutch is off you need to remove the plate behine to expose the oil pump, if the saw has had a new bar make sure it is the correct one and the oil holes line up.
-
This is the Robin engine, as has been said before part blocked main jet, if you need parts the UK importer is now Engines Plus Ltd in Dursley 01453547273
-
It would make a circuit, which creates a path to earth and in doing so cuts the spark.
-
Check the auto tune earth wire that is held under one of the carb floor fixing screws, if loose will cause all sorts of issues, do not connect the switch wires together this will earth the unit out ( sorry Stubbby ) at 4 years it will be Auto tune 1, so does not have a seperate service connector, this unit is no longer available, and will need the later unit and carb if the unit is bad, there will be a part no. on the blue ignition unit, post the no. there may be some units about, the air gap on these saws was 0.2mm
-
As Stubby says they are goverened to 10.000 rpm to protect the wheel, the coil from a 372xp would fit, but you will well exceed the 4.7 spindel speed, on your own head be it, to be honest the K760 already has plenty of power, you would gain more power than the cutting wheel could take, a diamond wheel would probably glaze and over heat,, my advise do not do it!!
-
That really is very thin there, it would not take too big a knock to crack it, makes you wonder how they get away with it.
-
Ah so we think its the knee link joint that has melted, if so the only way to create enough heat is as Skyland says, high rpm with the brake on, or miss use of the brake.
-
What plastic block??
-
You need access to the dealer support site after buying the tool, so i do not think you will get this.
-
The picture is a standard, not g handle.
-
Wrap around handle is part no. 503986771, 72 for the g handle.
-
I have seen some with loose stuffers with no ill effects, i have never seen one come apart and damage the engine.
-
Garden kit you cannot be serious about those spark plus? the one on the left ( running on pump fuel ) is running as rich as hell, i would sugest you either clean the ar filter, or lean the mixture some what, not a good comparison!!
-
We did a lot of testing on greasing gearbox bearings, and the conclution was over greasing was worse than under greasing, packing it full of grease reduced the life of both bearings and gears.
-
I think as we all know it is the taper that holds the flywheel to the crank, not the key, so i guess this is down to not tightening down to the correct torque, however i am amazed it lasted so long before slipping, also not sure why the carb was changed, lets hope its not the flywhhel again but an ignition unit fault.
-
Its a pulse tacho so there is no need to remove the top cover, the wire and croc clip is only if you want to fix the taco down and use a remote wire.
-
Might give you the chance to try out that new tool Steve, i was quite surprised its the same seal clutch side on the 550/560.
-
If you look at the face of your av mounts you can see they have a yellow dot on them, this denotes they are the hard av mounts, there is a soft rubber to give lower vibration if you want to lower it.
-
No the later 281xp had a large spring av across the front, you can fit the rubbers back in the front if you are running a long bar, but be aware you will increse the vibration levels, especially if you run a short bar
-
The seal dose not look too good, only problem is it cannot re removed without splitting the cylinder from the cylinder base, i think as you have gone this far you may as well strip the rest down, its not too difficult, we can always advise if your stuck, theseals are not too expensive, and the cylinder is sealed down with instant gasket, a little effort will turn it into a reasonable saw.
-
That wire is the earth return, because the switch is mounted in a plastic crankcase it news to be earthed or the machine will not switch off, so one end fits under the head of the top coil fixing screw, the other end is connected to an earth leg on the bottom of the switch, it is held down with a Philips screw.
