adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Just cant think that .063 chain is going to make a great deal of difference.
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I should have said the Husqvarna 90, rotary disc vale crankcase induction, no plastic in sight, weighted a ton,and shook your teeth out.
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We all want saws with more power,faster cutting, lighter, less vibration,lower noise, lower emissions, so there is a penalty to pay, greater maintenace, tightening external nuts and bolts etc, we have to be realistic if we do not want to go back to the age of Husqy 65s or Stihl 08s.
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I totally agree, it is better to jar the clutch of against compression, inserting things into the cylinder is always asking for trouble, there is no need to do it.
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Still have some parts available if anyone is intrested.
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The 372xp tank should fit ok to the 372 x torque, £300 to supply and fit a tank! hell fire!
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Carb flooding would be my guess, pressure test on carb would quickly verify this, if so new rubber tipped inlet needle would probably cure it.
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I think you need to pull the muffler off and take a look at the piston skirt throught the exhaust port, any sign of damage or scuffing and it will need further investigation.
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The 455 had a few tank breather issues, it is always worth changing it and trying again, the breather is situated under the starter cover top r/h side, they never seemed to over oil so i have in the past increased the throw of the pump piston to increase oil flow.
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The spring needs to be under the choke lever to work correctly, not on top.
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Yes shouldnt be a problem.
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You need to pull the cylinder off and see what sort of damage is on the piston, the cylinder will probably clean up, the 560 does have some issues with the nylon bearing cages , if the cage has broken up its saw right apart, they still run but do not sound right and there is a noticable increase in vibration, lets hope it was just a lubrication issue, what oil are you using?
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Any reduction in compression will affect the idle. Drive side crank seals can also be an issue.
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All 266 machines were either se or sg ( heated handle ) it replaced the 162, both were very good machines, well worth the money as long as it does not need a shed load of parts, most parts are readily available, watch the rubber av mounts, they perish and will probably require replacing, fit the later knee link chain brake, they are still available.
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The 385 side cover is different to any of the others, and the part no. should be 537033502 no idea where your number came from.
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The saw in the picture is a 380cd, there are very few parts available now for this saw, was a good saw in its day.
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A word of warning, never run the saw with the bar and chain removed, it is very possible for the clutch to un thread on the over run and fly off and can cause serious injury. As for your problem, make sure the the four bolts up through the crankcase into the cylinder are tight, i have seen these come loose and snap of, this allows the engine to move causing all sorts of issues.
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Hi Barrie, i have a question for you, when a saw has been rebuilt, then test run and tuned on Aspen, it goes back to the owner who then uses it on pump fuel, do you get any returns where it needs re adjusting? not trying to be funny, just intrested if there are any issues?
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Through out its life the 61 has had many different brakes, from the sweda matic to the knee link brake, the early bands are adjutable, the very early brake had a square headed adjuster, that was replaced by a screw with round top, the bands are different on both, but you can increse the screw to pull the band harder around the drum, increase the screw clockwise by quarter turn icrements and try after each adjustment, it is important not to over tighten as this will wear the band prematurly, take my advice and fit the later knee link brake, it works better there is no need for any adjustment, and finally there are no spare parts available for the old brakes, so you could be in the same boot very soon, i may have a brake if you are intrested.
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Get that hand guard fixed Stubby, you will have the chainsaw police after you!!
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Which cylinder came off the saw, inlet tube held to cylinder with a plate and two allen screws, or round stub on the cylinder and a thin jubilee style clip around it??
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Is it a G saw? they have heated carbs, if the stat goes wrong it will pre heat both carb and fuel causing excessive in the cylinder. I always remove the carb heaters.
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What a crock!!
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As Spud has said the sprocket bearing has seized, remove the clutch and drum, clean and re grease the bearing, replace if damaged.
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Could be a number of things, ranging from simple to drastic, i feel you need to get this checked out before starting it, it may simply be the oil film on the cylinder is a little sticky, or it could be a main bearing breaking up, if it is starting it will cause further damage.
