adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Do i have to repeat myself? this is not a copy, it is the new range of Husqvarna bars, there is nothing iffy about this saw.
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This is the new guide quite genuine, should be far better quaility at the nose bearing and harder wearing on the bar rails, time will tell.
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It looks like the the knee link has gone too far over centre due to part of the cover broken, this will make it very difficult for the brake to actuate.
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The screw holds the brake band to the knee link joint. remove the spring cover and spring, re fit the screw
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By concrete saw you mean a power cutter? if so the Husqvarna K760 12" is a good machine, all parts are readily available at reasonable prices, always remember these machines work in a very dirty dusty enviroment, so if the filters have not been maintained and concrete dust has entered the engine it will quickly take out the cylinder, crank and bearings, avoid the K650, poor spares availability and pricey.
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Be careful doing that as the bearing cage is very close to the back of the crank seal.
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Aspen probably!
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The T540 flip up oil cap will not fit the 262xp, the spiral hose will work fine, the standard flip cap will fit the fuel tank.
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Time for a shiny new one then, keep the old one for parts, many will fit the later 372.
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Yes split the crankcase, a couple of 6202 bearings and a gasket set, new piston, or cylinder as well if there are grooves up the transfer ports of the bore, air filter looks like death.
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You cannot just dress that piston and put back in, somthing serious is going on down below, the cylinder must be pretty bad as well?
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Main bearing cage breaking up would be my guess.
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What can happen is the quadrant in the hand guart itself wears, it then no longer fits deep enough into the brake cover making near imossible to load the brake, so change the hand guard.
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If its running out the bottom of the saw then it must be oiling but not getting to the bar, is it the correct bar? are the oil holes in the bar blocked? the 455 never did over oil, if there is not enough pressure from the pump then maybe it is just a pump problem, there are ways of increasing the oil flow, it is all about increasing the throw of the pump shaft.
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Part no. 501388201 will fit.
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The 357xx would never have hade the .325 050 Pixel chain as standard.
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The metering lever should be level with thw sides of the carb, do not raise it, there is a bracket missing from the back of the carb in the picture, if there is a wire mesh around the internal baffel remove and throw away.
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Visor part no. 586409601
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Only a matter of time before someone is seriously injured.
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The band is broken, some of the comments on this thread are unbelievable, how many times do we have to tell people not to run the bloody saw with the bar and chain removed and clutch still on, as for the 36/136/137 all having inherent idling problems, says who????????
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Not to question your ability but you have rebuilt the carb correctly, metering gasket first then metering diaphram, pump diaphram first then gasket?
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It just sounds like ignition problems to me, why did you change the original unit?
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When you say you replaced the ignition unit, was it genuine? did you sheck the flywheel key?
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As said inner tube is too thin, mud flap or such like if good, you will need an entry point for the tester, Stihl you can use the impulse hose, Husqvarna not so easy ( unless 372 ) modified piston stop does the trick.
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Aspen will make no differece, hot start no deco valve, choke in and out to lock throttle open, purge fuel bulb, brake on, crank engine.
