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adw

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Everything posted by adw

  1. They carry a two year warranty, check with the dealer, they may put this through as a warranty claim
  2. Its no secret there has been some issues in this area, how old is this machine?
  3. Yes, a short block.
  4. I have an early crankcase ( without the extra bolt ) it would get the machine going again, if the gasket is properly fitted with a bit of gasket sealent they actually gave no problems.
  5. The black SEM unit is part no. 501516101 if you have the metal switch, or 501516102 if you have the plastic switch, the only difference is the size of the terminal on the switch, put the part no. into the web and see who has one, and the cheapest
  6. Under the starter on the bottom right hand side the eletronic unit connects to the coil, check the connection under the small screw is good, if ok check both wires from the unit for slits whick could be earthing it out, failing that it will be a replacment electronic box, the coil very rarley fails, the early units were blue Prufrex units, the later ones were black SEM units.
  7. Hi Spud, the raised horse shoe section inside the brake cover was to stop the clutch spinning off far enough to allow the drum to diss engage from the oil pump drive, it truly concerns me that people are still running saws with the bar ,chain and clutch cover not fitted, when the clutch flys off the shoes and springs come away from the spider, so you get numerous lumps of metal flying around, and could cause serious injury
  8. As said the chains are very expensive and do not last very long, the chain is coolrd and lubed with water and plenty of it, a better machine is the Husqvarna K760 cut n break, or the electric version the K3000 cut n break, it will go the same depth as the saw but is more cost effective, it has two cutting discs runninf side by side, you cut in so far, break out the thin strip of concrete and then go in again, good reliable machine, as far as needing a certificate, you can hire it from Travis perkins no problem as it is not a chain saw.
  9. O Ring part no. 503263017, check the web for sellers.
  10. As Matty F has said there is a short block available part no, 580663703.
  11. 3 or 4psi is more than enough, many manuals talked about pop off pressure ( pumping up until the needle lifted off its seat ) but this stopped as it could damage the pump diaphram.
  12. Nice saw, you should check for air leaks around the inlet boot,the boot also includes the impulse, so you need to be sure the boot fits correctly onto the cylinder, the later machine has a metal clip to secure the boot, this was abetter solution than the plastic clip on the earlier machine, check the fuel filter in the tank, and the fuel screen in the carb.
  13. Have done many heli coils, the key is to get a genuine heli coil tool, not these cheap re coil tools, you must also get the tap dead straight, hold the tap in a pillar drill and turn by hand to keep the tap straight, never turn the tool backwards, use a tag break off tool. If fitted correctly they are stronger than the original thread.
  14. Are you sure your pressure tester is not leaking, with fuel in the carb you should see no leak with slightly less pressure than you are putting in there.
  15. If this is a noise compliant machine the engines revs will be way down around 2800, crank them up to 3600rpm.
  16. If you have connected the pressure side of the purge to the fuel inlet on the carb it will be impossible to push the bulb in as you are pushing against the inlet needle
  17. Tungston carbide cutters, they can be re faced with a green stone.
  18. Yes you have two different pitches of chain .325 and 3/8 low profile.
  19. Are you sure you have connected the pipes the right way round on the purge, they normally pull fuel from the carb, into the bulb and then back to tank, not done much with Homelite, but purg bulbs will normally have a short and a long connection, the longer one is normally the pressure side so this should be the return to tank ( not the hose with a filter on the end ) the short one is the suction side so this goes to the carb, the connection on the carb closest to the metering side diaphragm cover, if they are connected wrong it will try to push fuel into the carb.
  20. Are you sure this is a CS350, the clutch in the picture is the Poulon clutch?
  21. There is a special tool to remove this clutch part no, 530031112 do not be tempted to strike the clutch legs as they will just snap off, jar the clutch against compression with the correct tool clockwise, it will spin off.
  22. Buy your machines localy and support the local dealer.
  23. You need to get out more!
  24. This is the Husqvarna 435, the carb has splines on the adjuster screws so you would need a special tool to adjust them, if the saw takes a long time to return to idle i would say it was lean and needs to be a little richer on the L screw.
  25. There is a 200mm blade guard and bracket to fit the 143R11 537310902, you can then fit a timber blade, the arbor size is 1" there are Scarlet and Maxi blades available from Husqvarna, however the lenght of the tube may make life hard as it is designed to keep a trimmer head or blade parallel with the ground, a timber blade should hit the stem at an angle so the stem slides off the blade and does not come down and trap it.

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