adw

Oh dear all sounds a little familiar.

Husqvarna used to sell the iron horse, and then Jonsered, i know a local guy who has one, i can ask him if he would like to sell it, it is Jonsered branded.

A 137 hobby saw to a 550 pro saw, chalk and cheese.

Any dealer who thinks you need a chainsaw certificate to buy a pro saw is not going to sell many saws with there lack of knowlege,makes you wonder what the after service is going to be like!

Oh yes you do have to remove the pins, and the tank some times, they are not the easiest to do.

These little saws did not really suffer with bad ignition units, if it has a spark at the plug it is probably ok. The starting procedure is very important, assuming everything has dried out, push the purge bulb as many times as it takes to 3/4 fill the bulb, pull out the choke, crank the engine only TWICE then push the choke back in, do not touch the trigger, crank the engine again, it should start within three pulls or there is something else wrong with it, they were quite prone to losing part of the bearing cage, this will nip the ring in down the transfer port side of the piston, this cannot be seen through the exhaust port, let us know how you get on, removing the carb needs to be done in the correct order, I can run through this if you wish.

Pretty sure they are going to fit a new ignition unit.

Will if hes been digging the wrong bits out, get it priced up ready!

Point taken, just added it for info.

Most of the Walbro rotary carbs can be adjusted, right on the top of the carb, down the centre of the throttle spindle ( you will have to dig the plastic bung out ) use a 2mm screw driver down the centre, here you can adjust the needle to ritchen the mixture.

Letting the saw idle will re set the idle mixture, and re set the idle too 2750rpm,factory setting.

Does the wife know you are working on top of the chest freezer??

Just as a matter of intrest, the T540/550/560 all have compensator carbs, and centrafugal air cleaning, this should greatly reduce air filter cleaning intervals ( end of day cleaning is fine though ) i agree auto tune is blamed for every failure,they are lean burn engines, but it is still a two stroke engine with all the requirements of any other two stroke.

When you say repair kit, is it just diaphrams and gaskets? start with the pump side ( alloy cover held with a single screw ) remove the gasket, and pump diaphram, replace the the fuel screen if in the kit, you should not really just clean this as the mesh is very fine, clean fuel channels with carb cleaner, fit the new pump diaphram against the carb body, followed by the gasket and cover. Remove the four screws holding the metering side cover, under here you will find the metering diaphram and its gasket in that order, if you have a new fuel needle ,remove the screw securing the metering lever, remove the metering pin, lever and needle, be careful not to lose the spring, now remove the H and L mixture screws, clean through all the fuel channels with carb cleaner, if you have new core plugs in the kit be very carefull removing the old plugs as it is easy to damage the carb body, re fit the metering lever and needle, use new if suppled in the kit, the metering lever should be level with the the sides of the carb body, pry up if too low, bend down if too high, fit the gasket and then the metering diaphram and cover, re fit the H and L screws, gently in onto there seats and back off one turn on each, fine tuning will ned to be done during running the engine. The are fuel screws so unscrewing them will ritchen the mixture, if the machine hesitates on pick up ritchen the L screw a little, max rpm should be set with a taco, if you do not have one set the max rpm so the engine is four stroking.

Should have said the later machines ( x torque ) have the split carb, earlier models are not x torque.

The 365/372 has a split venturi carb.

Yes you are correct, i am suffering from a curry and four pints of Kingfisher.

Dont mess about with non standard clips, learn how to fit the correct clip, its not that hard once you have done a few, but as has been said its more importent to get the impulse into the cylinder before fitting the housing.

Just for your own information Husqvarna now produce most of there own cylinders in the factory, they are cast with open ports and a side plate is attached, Mahle piston are then fitted.

I probably have one. I will check tomorrow.

Any Husqvarna dealer part no.501879706 retail price £17.40 + vat

Oh yes they would.

Piston looks a right mess, cylinder looks ok though, if its a G model dont forget to diss connect the carb heater, they will increase cylinder temprature.

Well said Stubby, piston fitted backwards is exactly what i would have said.

So you and Eddie are not making a nice profit from selling Aspen? Can we ask full time cutters to work out how much fuel they use in say six months, now work out the two costs , pump fuel and Aspen, then we can make up our own mind as to what this is costing.