adw
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Everything posted by adw
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No Stubby, the sprocket is a washer and c clip, the clutch is spun onto the crank, and believe me they can be tight, it is a l/h thread, you need to remove it to get to the oil pump.
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Changed in 2012 week 17 so I guess yours should be ok.
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How old is this saw, there was a later fuel hose with better bends in it to stop it getting flattened.
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They do not suffer with crank seal issues, is this machine still under warranty? it was a 2 year warranty if the dealer registered it.
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Don't mean to be rude Spud but the ignition unit seems to have all sorts of issues, which can fool you into thinking its other issues, just my opinion, by all means try the easy cheap stuff first.
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Re loctiting exhaust bolts, as I understood it Loctite is not heat resistant, so never had a lot of success doing it
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Behind the sprocket and clutch is the other end of that brass tube, it sits into a small rubber boot and then into the pump delivery, it may be leaking here if the rubber boot has split, be aware the clutch will be murder tight.
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Yes ignition units.
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We have also to consider peoples expectations, they want lighter saws, more powerful saws, less vibration and so on, that mixed with EU emission laws,and what do we get, great saws that work faster, safer, and lower fuel consumption, if saws were produced like they were before nobody would buy it, just get on Arbtalk and tell everybody what terrible machines they are, big,bulky shake your teeth out etc.
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Why would you be doing that? shortening the spring will reduce greatly the stopping time of of the chain, if it even stops it at all, DONT DO IT.
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335R was a great little mavhine, x torque engine has plenty of power, was replaced by the 535R machine which is still much the same.
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Bigger chain, faster speed it will get hot, the 562 has a higher capacity oil pump to cope with 3/8 and longer bars, when you say hot, how hot? did you ever check how hot the bar was before the change?
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Sorry mate that is not a 254, it is either a 51 or if it has a deco valve it is a 55, both of which are semi pro saws, that said is was a good saw, very reliable , unfortunatley not the performance of a 254xp
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A far better saw than the 236.
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The 350 was the largest of the 3 series semi pro saws ( 340,345 and 350) it shares the same composit crankcase as the 340,345, however had a flat base cylinder and spacer to sandwich the crankshaft, it shares many of the parts used on the pro 346xp, all that said it was a really good saw, if in good condition well worth £150, ran .325 chain as standard, ran best with 15" bar, 18 and 20 were available, the ser no on the r/h side of the saw behind the top handle will give the age of the saw.
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125b is a hobby blower,built in the US, it has no av system, and not built for heavy use.
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Sorry another senior moment, didnt think of the ht lead as a wire.
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When you say gasket on front of the carb, what are you refering to? the only gasket is on the back of the carb if it still has the compensator carb, it is also possible to fit this one up side down, as the carb has no breather hole in the metering cover, it would upset the carburation and run terrible.
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The early unit had a seperate earth wire whish was held under one of the units fixing screws, this was dropped on the later unit, it now earths through the coil laminates, the other wire is obviously the earth cut out wire to the switch, there should be no third wire?
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The 630 was basically the Husqvarna 162, the later model has a single piece ignition unit, this seems to be what you have, the air gap should be 0.3mm, however it was not the best ignition unit out there so this is sounding like an ignition issue, i can probably find a unit for you to try, at least it would rule out the unit. To clean the carb properly you really need to remove the core plug covering the main jet screen.
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Sorry Spud i have to correct you here it is an A65, you can tell by the starter grill, the muffler was also held with studs and nutsrather than threw bolts, as a mater of intrest at the end of production of the L65 they were made in the Tomos factory in Yugoslavia, it also had a manual chain brake.
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Tut tut spud clamp should be replaced by the plastic one?? any way, does it have the auto deco valve? if so change to the standard blue button type, impulse hose split? as has been said the Walbro carb had issues like this, the Zama carb runs so much better, for the cost i would change the crank seals, was the cylinder a genuine Mahl cylinder or a after market one?
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There are no ex mods, you can remove the sparl arrestor, some say this helps, there is some issues with hot starting on this model, it is importent to blank off the tank breather tube to the air filter elbow, this will stop fuel vapour entering the inlet, do not use the the deco valve to re start a hot saw, if it runs out of fuel, purge plenty of times to get cool fuel back into the carb.
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Are you trying to run this saw with a 357xp carb??
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Marketing is a wonderous thing.
