adw
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Everything posted by adw
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No, the 440 has .325 bar and chain not 3/8 low profile, and the cylinder is ported differently so 435 1.6 KW 440 1.8 KW.
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Doesnt sound like a spring issue, more like a pulley issue, or the starter cover itself, if the centre post is off center it will jam on the pawls.
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Yes it will go straight on pt no, 501388201 you will just need a bar nut then
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If you have a spark, and fuel on the plug, and it still wont fire, you need to check the flywheel key has not sheared knocking the timing out.
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If the muffler has broken up it is pretty certain a portion of the baffle has been drawn into the cylinder, bite the bullit and pull the cylinder off, its the only way to check, if it suddenly frees up and you start it you will be looking for a new pot & piston.
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I feel there is nothing wrong with the bearing, the cage is there to keep the balls apart, if the cage breaks up it is because it was the way it was fitted ie stressed and loaded up, when you rebuild and engine and do the final tighting of the crankcase screws you need to give a tap on either side of the crank ( copper hammer ) to releave any side loading.
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The nylon cage in the bearing should need less lubricating this was why it was chosen, that and the free running of the bearing, i have not seen many with the flywheel side gone, it is usually clutch side which if you carry on running the saw will destroy the flywheel side, intrestingly enough the cage is quite soft and does not damage the cylinder.
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Oh dear, the key is align the ignition timing, the taper holds the flywheel, if you can get the key back in exactly the same place and get the flwheel back on without movingit, and tighnten the nut without moving it you should be ok, or new flywheel. By the way make sure the washer imbalancer under the nut is in the correst position.
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Oh a test machine, shouldnt really be showing that about, hope he is filling in the test log.
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The bearings are nothing to do with auto tune
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njm go back to the post from sawtroll, blow it up and read it.
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That seems to firm up what i have said.
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Husqvarna have a sprung strop which they recommend
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I would imagine the factory is well aware of the issues with the T540 and moves will be afoot to put them right.
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I have watched the way people are trained today, the contant knocking on of the chain brake takes its toll on bearings and cranks, in an ideal world the saw will have come to rest before knocking the brake on, not constantly doing it before the revs have dropped, the bearings are of good quaility but i feel the issues have been the way they were fitted.
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No, we are talking about early saws, the 560xp today is a great saw.
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Crankcse, with crank,bearings and seals fitted, there is also one for the 562xp, it was more for the early saws with leaking case gasket, it now has an extra screw to support the gasket.
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The piston slides back in pretty easy, make sure the ring peg is in the correct position, push the piston in nice and square,there is a good leed in the cylinder, have done plenty of these, but check those bearings !!!!!!!!!!
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To cut down on dealer warranty labour there is a short block available for the 560xp
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The bearings are a little special as the crank seal fits in the crankcase but the innner part of the seal runs on an extention of the bearing inner race not on the crankshaft, the nylon cage gives much smoother running and decreased heat, if the bearubg was fitted under tention this could be why it has failed prematurley.
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Its not easy to remove the muffler with the engine in the tank unit, and even harder to get it back on, if you strip the bottom end i would strongly advise replacing the main bearings, they are encapsulated in a rubber housing which also makes up the crank seal, it is quite intresting to see the crank seal on the inside rather than the outside, it then has a fully sealed bearing, this was to combat bearing carboning .
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The 338xpt had to have an auto deco valve because the engine unit is held to the tank unit via av springs, but the starter is screwed to the tank unit, so the engne can move away from the starter and slip if the compression is too high, it works really well on this saw, unfortunatley it did not work too well on the 357xp
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The 338XPT has an auto deco valve, you need to blank this off before an compression test
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Cylinder and piston from the 375K, not some cheap Chinese thing.
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Sorry plus vat, less good customer discount maybe!
