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I would say its too small for this application

The worse the chain, the longer it takes, the longer it takes the greater the heat and so on, i have to say i would use a Husqvarna roller gauge and a fresh file, would probably take no longer than the grinder when you take into consideration stone dressing, setting up, and light taps because the chain is badly damaged, also the chain stays on the saw.

All products today have some type of tamper proof system on the carb due to emmisions, the tool can be purchased under part no. 530035560 there are some being sold on E Bay.

Garyjp Where in Gloucestershire are you based?

The 142 was quite prone to the rubber induction tube between the cylinder and carb plate to split, this then causes a massive air leak, also under the induction tube is the impulse tube, make sure the yellow rubber seal is seated properly.

Aspen absoulutly fine, but price is a killer, no serious cutter could afford to run it every day, we have also seen a decrease in power when useing it, there is nothing wrong with useing fresh pump fuel with good quaility two stroke oil,regular maintenance of the saw is the answer. Aspen is more for casual users who keep fuel longer than they should and price is not such a issue.

The Husqvarna 226HD/HS machines are from the zenoah camp that Husqvarna bought.

Its a brave man who tries to weld magnesium.

The starter pawls are spring loaded toward the flywheel nut, once the engine fires up centrifugal action takes over and the pawls fly out away from the starter pulley, as long as the pawls are free and can be pushed out against the spring tention with one finger, then all should be ok.

Point taken, but whenever i see a screw driver in the end of the spring it sends a shiver, the long nose pliers are far better, they fit right down inside the spring, the actual service tool is a anti vib spanner modified by removing one leg, again it fits well insde the spring and has a t bar top so as to make pushing easier, try the pliers, you might like it.

The last thing you should use to compress the spring is a screw driver, if that screw driver slips off the end of the spring it is going straight into his hand, which is why we never used this method during service training.

Right refitting the band in a 300 series saw, befor you start, find two 13mm bolts lock the firmly in a vice spread open the same spacing as the brake, place the brake cover band upper most onto the upstanding bolts, secure with 2 bar nuts,this will now hold the brake, engage the brake to relax the spring as much as possible, you can use either a broken hand guard as a tool to do this, or remove the guard from the saw, there is a proper tool pt no. 502522202, now carefully remove the screws and spring cover, insert a small screw driver into the end of the spring and pry out so as the spring comes onto the screw driver blade, remove the e clip securing the knee link, remove the band, fit a new band and refit to the cover, dont forget the e clip, push the spring back into the brake, use a pair of long nose pliers, insert them into the end of the spring, use this to push the spring and compress it back into the cover, again there is a tool part no, 502506701, refit the spring cover, use the method at the beging of this to re load the brake, either the tool or hand guard, you could also take away the clutch and sprocket to enable you to fit the brake on the saw and use the hand guard

That is the E start spring, it was supposed to take away the jerk as it goes over compression, it was never fitted to the 36/41/136/141 which were basicaly the same saw, i just cant remember if you can change just the pulley, or you had to change the whole starter, it would be worth ordering the standard pulley 530069313 and try it.

The xp and xpg tanks are the same, its not too bad a job to change the heater element over.

The original cylinder is a Mahl, i always say there is no substitute for the original component, i have seen plenty of after market cylinders, at best reasonable, at worst rubbish, you pay your money and take your chance.

Be intrested to hear what it tastes like, contact us from the hospital.

I have had 372xpg 576xpg actually seize due to pre heating the carb and fuel.

The g filter elbow is blue because it houses the carb heater element, it makes it easier in production too not mix them up.

Heated handles great, but they usually come hand in hand with heated carbs, you do not want or need a heated carb in the UK, i usually diss conect that side of it, also never carry two saws together with the bars through one anothers handle, the heater element is on the underside of the top handle, if you nick the handle casing it will kill the heater and you will need a new top handle, as you need a circuit the rear handle will cease to function as well, this is for the Husqvarna machines, not sure about Stihl.

It is very important not too over fill the gearbox with grease, this will result in the grease forcing out between the blades, this then makes the blade movment sluggish, and takes a long time to get them moving when cold.

Hell i only wanted to know if anyone else had bio oil degrading on the saw and making it a bitch to get off, didnt realise it was such an imotive issue. Sorry.

I obviously need to start asking the owners what oil they are using

Dont use it myself, it is on saws i repair, all i can say it smells sickly, and is probably based on rape seed oil

Damn stuff sticks oil pumps on, fills screw heads so you spend ages digging it out,just sticks up everthing, thanks for the advice but i dont think carb cleaner is the best stuff to spray the saw with.

Am i the only one fed up with Bio chain oil, when it starts to degrade on the saw it turns to what appears to be chewing gum, i have tried all sorts to remove it, event the steam cleaner, it may be good for the enviroment but it plays havoc on the saw.