adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Hi Eddy, i can send you any manuals you may require, you will not get acsess to the support site if you do not have a live account,sorry.
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Spud the well side plates are missing, worth fitting the inner one to protect the crankcase.
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Re the 357 mod, i use an insert 6mm on the out side 5mm in the centre, so you can still use the original screw, there are a few of these repair inserts in the Husqvarna workshop manuals, even one to repair the plastic threads.
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All the UK 560XP heated handle saws i have seen do have heated carbs, with a thermostant on the carb top,the heater element is sandwiched between the filter elbow and the carb face, so i just remove them.
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For the cost of it i would replace the white plug pt no. 506300401, especialy as you have used a screw to remove it, as was said you can fit the 372 valve, the only real difference is it has a green elbow on and a ruber tube up into the carb area where there is a nipple to push it onto, the 371 will not have this nipple so stay with the early type, as was said you should have just slackened the cap to see if that improved things before removing the valve, new valves will weep for a while until they get fully soaked and some saw dust around them, so dont be worried if you see a small weep.
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Some of the arguements are valid, however manufacturers are already useing different materials for fuel hoses, carb diaphrams etc, i think it a little unfair to imply that your saw is going to fall apart if you do not use Aspen, i have worked on thousands of machines that have been and still are running on pump fuel, i guess you have a vested intrest in this as you are selling it.
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I have said this before, there is a definate power loss useing Aspen, tune the carb all you like, there is no way a pro cutter could justify the additional cost of using this fuel, trebling your fuel cost over night is just not going to happen, fresh pump fuel and good quaility two stroke oil is fine.
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In watts it should be around 65w, i have never seen a noticable loss of power, i am not a lover of heated carbs so would remove it, it is just not required in the UK, pre heating fuel can cause all sorts of issues.
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The later 550 has a lighter clutch with two claw springs, the early clutch had three springs early clutch no. 574236101 spring no. 537166901, the later clutch is 577518201 and spring 537359101
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572XP couldnt possibly say, bet its goin to be a real animal.
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Not your good self but i was called a dealer/repair agent, or work for an arb company, sorry none of these, didnt mean to affend anybody, this information was left out of the instruction book as it was thought that most users would leave them idling anyway,, but rest assured it is a fact, be my guest and check it out with Husqvarna technical.
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Ive been called lots of things over the years but never any of those, you just keep tickling the trigger until it will sort of idle all be it unsteady, eventually auto tune will re set the the mixture and set the rpm to 2750 which is the CE standard for the saw to idle, cant really say any more if people are not willing to accept facts.
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I have spoken to R&D again today who have assured me that this is true regarding the idle, but only if the saw is staling on idle, if your machine is ok then fine. We are on our third generation of carbs on these machines, both Zama and Walbro, so things are moving on at a pace, its always difficult to know which carb, which generation auto tune module which ignition unit, and which software version is fitted to individual machines with out pluging them into a computer. I will let them know Eddy t is the new Auto tune expert in the UK should raise a smile.
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Perhaps i did not explain this very well, you only need to to go through the loading of the saw process once, and off you go, letting the saw idle for 2/3 minutes is a fact for auto tune to reset if it will not idle smoothly, anybody who likes to poo hoo this needs to except that some people know alot more than they do.
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It is in the manual, and should be done before using the saw daily, you should also leave them to idle for 2/3 minutes to re set the idle, this is novered in the manual but does work, the later 560 does not need the breather tube blanked off due to a change in the fuel tank, if you open the filler cap and can see the end of the breather pipe it is the old tank, the new breather sits in a air trap in the top of the tank and cant be seen.
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No the manifold is not sealed on, it should just be a rubber seal, it may well be well seated, there are four screws and a u shaped plate on one side, the hard part is getting all back together, the carb throttle cable is a real teaser
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You can buy the auto tune tool, it has a part no. however you need acess to the Husqvarna web site to up date it, i cant imagine a dealer will give you the log on details( sorry i cant either ) yes it is a fair strip down to get to the pulse tube, it can become diss connected in certain cicumstances. The tool when pluged in will give hours of use, ser no, product no. rpm last time it ran, you can insert the owners name, time used in different modes, there is diagnostics for the throttle sensor, temprature,and fuel valve, you can input the latest software, it knows the carb type and auto tune module no, you just have to input the ignition unit no.. there are fault codes which can come up, finally you can input information about any service work that has been carried out on the saw.
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No its awful, ok i guess for out right hobby cutter, but thats where it ends
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Long time since i have seen one of these carbs probably a Niki, the cable at the carb end should have a small barrel nipple, thread throught the cap, through the spring, down the side of the slide, and under the base of the slide through the cut a way in the side of the slide., more like a motor cycle type affair.
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3/8 050 gauge 5/32 file, .325 3/16 file, 3/8 7/32 file, buy youself the Husqarna roller guides to sharpen , they are simple and work well, try to sharpen the chain on the saw, its easier to clamp the bar in a vice, not a lover of chain grinder for all the reasons other people have given
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The 576XP does not have the breather fed into the filter elbow like the 560/550 so there is no chance of it feeding fuel in here, the 576 has first generation auto tune, it was never my favorite system, i did convert a few back to standard ( carb ) with good results, this auto tune cannot be re programmed, you can reset them with three nine volt batteries but this never seemed to help us much.
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I know its a new saw but it sounds like it could be a tank breather issue, if the tank is full there is very little air in the tank,so it plays fairly quickly.
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You know you want the 395XP so just go and get it, great saw well established.
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At least a 395XP, or even a 3120xp if the budget will stretch
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Ring the UK importer Lombardini, they should give you the nearest dealer, or may supply direct
