adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Both Husqvarna and Partner had one, the Husqvarna was the 272S and the Partner was the S650, they were both hand held until the health and saftey people saw it, it was then bolted to a small trolley, the power cutter arm was used with a different guard, then a tungston carbide tipped blade was bolted on, worked really well on small stumps but as said you had to keed the edge on the tips.
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The genuine 288xp cylinder has a deco valve, which was not fitted to the 181 or 281.
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Husqvarna only go up to 28" on a 3/8, its not just the power issue, you have to see if the oil pump can cope with a longer bar, the 281 had a large front av spring to cope with longer bars
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This is how thet end up
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These Chinese machines are ilegal couterfeit units, there is a Husqvarna site to report these, and they will take action against the sellers
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The a v spring is pretty easy to change, insert a torq 20 down through the centre of the spring and undo the captive screw inside, refit the new spring in reverse. Spring part no. 510071101
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If you fit the large spline sprocket to the 550 you would have to change the oil pump drive gear as this is driven off the back of the spline, so the opening in the gear has to be larger.
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Just had another thought, not to be funny but you did fit the piston round the right way, this is an X Torq engine, so has channels on the inlet side of the piston to fill the tops of the transher ports with air thus reducing emmisions due to none of the fresh charge lost out of the exhaust port.
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If everything in the carb appears ok, and the hoses are correctly connected ( purge pulling fuel from the carb, into the bulb, and dumping back to tank ) the fuel filter in the tank is clear, then do not rule out the ignition unit, it is a fairly cheap unit, i have changed quite a few of these due to similar running issues.
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I have split and rebuilt every Husqvarna machine built includibg 560 ,550, 545, T540 auto tune machines, the 162 will be a easy job, so the offer still stands.
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If this is a UK saw it was supplied with 15" .325 it is very unlikly somebody has fitted a 3/8 sprocket, the saw was supplied with the bar and chain in the box so there was never any variation on a UK saw.
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Not being funny but i have split and rebuilt hundreds of machines, yes the bearings are tight on the crank but this is how they should be, if the bearings are loose there is wear on the crank journals, the outer surface of the bearing is also an interference fit in the crankcase hence you need a puller to part them, it can also be done by heating the crankcase to expand the case, i have also done it this way, but now use the correct tools, the openings in the case are not blind so there are tools with the correct spacing for the bearings to align the crank in the case, as i said if you want to send me the bottom end i will split it for you at a reasonable cost.
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I have the correct tool for the job, looks like a modified g clamp, works really well, yes do not use a hammer, there is also refitting tools for the crank, the crankcase is actually magnesium, if you wnt to send me the bottom end i will split and re fit the crank properly.
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The 136 was supplied with a 15" .325 bar and chain ( 64 drive links ) as standard, there was an option of a 3/8 sprocket but this was never standard in the uk.
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Tuning your saw is not to be taken on lightly, leaning the mixture on the high jet can result in over reving and seizure, the carb should not really lose its settings, things like blocked air filter, blocked fuel filter, and or air leaks will alter the carburation, you should not alter carb settings to compensate for these issues, all max revs should be checked with a taco, not by ear, you need the Husqvarna model for us to give the max factory rpm.
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The 162 was a good saw around for a long time, eventually replaced with the 266, the semi pro version was the 61, if the saw is in good condition it is well worth spend a few pounds on it.
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I completly agree it sounds like the crankcase gasket leaking, the gasket seals the oil tank from the bottom of the crankcase, if the rest of the saw is ok it is well worth doing, gasket sets are still available as are the crank seals, whilst there i would change the main bearings, a dealer should charge 2 1/2 hours plus the parts to do this repair, or do the job yourself,i am sure we can help you with advise on how to tackle this job, i know the model very well and have done many rebuilds, so can help you step by step
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Good saw, however it is not an XP, the later model is an X Torq saw, plenty of people on the site who will tell you how to mod it up to a 372XP, the earlier 365 i feel was a better saw.
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Give me an e mail address and i will send you the shop manual
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The biggest issue is locating the spring for the throttle lock correctly, if it is not in the correct position it will restrict the trigger opening, very difficult to explain where it should be.
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The greatest load is on the clutch side, in some cases it is the bearing loose in the crankcase not wear in the bearing, this would then need a crankcase, hope for your sake this is not the case.
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There is no reason why a windowed piston will not work in an open ported cylinder, but does not work the other way round (windowed cylinder with non windowed piston )
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236/240 is a hobby saw, not the saw for what you are doing, you need to go to a semi pro saw, 450,455, 365, or if you want auto tune 545
