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Good saw, however it is not an XP, the later model is an X Torq saw, plenty of people on the site who will tell you how to mod it up to a 372XP, the earlier 365 i feel was a better saw.

Give me an e mail address and i will send you the shop manual

The biggest issue is locating the spring for the throttle lock correctly, if it is not in the correct position it will restrict the trigger opening, very difficult to explain where it should be.

The greatest load is on the clutch side, in some cases it is the bearing loose in the crankcase not wear in the bearing, this would then need a crankcase, hope for your sake this is not the case.

There is no reason why a windowed piston will not work in an open ported cylinder, but does not work the other way round (windowed cylinder with non windowed piston )

236/240 is a hobby saw, not the saw for what you are doing, you need to go to a semi pro saw, 450,455, 365, or if you want auto tune 545

I have a new starter cover ( need to build your spring, pulley etc into it ) if you want it let me know.

To repair the brake, remove from the saw, to reduce spring tention knock the brake on, remove the allen screw securing the hand guard three turns tap the head of the screw to remove the inner coller, remove the screw fully, use a small punch to tap out the outer collar, remove the hand guard, remove the screws securing the spring cover, be carefull as you remove the cover as there is a compression spring under here, pry the end of the spring up far enough to enter a small screw driver into the end, allow the spring to come out of the cover onto the shank of the screw driver, this will stop it flying out, now clean out the debris from in and around the knee link joint, work the joint back and forth to make sure it now goes over centre, now re fit the spring, i would suggest making a pushing tool with a forked end which will enter into the end of the spring to stop it flying out as you push it in, i have also used a pair of long nose pliers to enter into the spring and use this as a tool to push the spring, if you find it hard to hold the cover whilst re fitting the spring, place two 8mm bolts tight in a vice thread upwards, space them the same distance as the chain brake holes, plave the brake band side up onto the upstanding bolts, secure with a couple of bar nuts, once the spring is back in grease all internals and re fit the spring cover, as the brake is now on you need to load it, you will find it very difficult to align the hand guard back on the cover, so get it somewhere near, enter a conical punch through the hand guard and cover hole now push down on the rear section of the hand guard whilst pulling it back toward you, it should now load, remove the punch and hand guard, re fit the gaurd centrally, re fit the screw and collers, make sure the brake works, knock it on a few times,make sure with the brake loaded, the hand guard springs back to the central position, if not remove and re centralise, later brakes have a much larger spring pushed inside the guard its self and retained with a pin and e clip, there is never any need to remove this pin and spring, if by mistake you do, yo will need to rfit the spring, compress the two ends of the spring together push the looped end up into the guard as far as possible make sure the arc side of the spring is facing forward, and the pig tail of the spring is rearward, push the pin back in, if you have done it correctly the arc side of the spring shall now be resting on top of the pin and stoping it from coming out.

This is dirt under the knee link joint in the brake, it needs to come apart and clean out the build up of dirt, be aware if you remove the cover under the hand guard this is a fair compression spring

The 262 brake will fit however the hand gaurd is diffrent and has different weights in the hand guard, otherwise it is the same

Just one more thing they are quite prone too, remove the carb, remove the carb fixing plate against the cylinder, behind here you will find the rubber induction tube and impulse seal, check both for splits and cracks as this will cause a massive air leak

Two tpes of clutch on the 550 one with two claw type springs, and one with three small springs, useing a pair of long nose external circlip pliers will aid you fitting both types, you will need to remove the clutch to fit the springs.

There is a short engine available for this machine ( crankcase,crank,cylinder & piston ) just build the rest of the machine onto it part no. 576829701

Offer him £50.00 for it they were not that bad, depends on how much work you intend to do with it, the drive was a pto shaft from the side of the Briggs engine, there is not much to go wrong with it, i had one for a good few years.

The 136 had leakage problems from between the pick up hose and the delivery hose, so this was replaced with a combined tube, the pump cylinder slides into the new hose, this normally made oil leakage much better, the assembly should stand proud so as when the outer plate is fitted and the bar tightened up a better seal is given, the filter was uaually a spring pushed onto the delivery pipe, if the oil is thich this can retrict oil flow, so pull the spring to open up the coils to allow better oil flow, the pump shaft not only rotates but has a throw, there should be an ecentric in the plastic pump gear which runs on a steel pin, turn the pump gear by hand and check there is a throw, the bigger the throw the higher the oil flow, never run the saw with out the bar and chain connected there is a high chance of the clutch cominh off on the over run, if no bar and chain are fitted remove the clutch and sprocket and check the oiling this way, the drive gear should be a tight fit on the crank, check its condition and that is is still tight.

All Husqvarna forest and garden products carry a 12 month warranty, with a second 12 if the product is registered on line by the dealer or customer, warranty is a fault in materials or manufacture, not miss use, abuse, lack of service or maintenance, because auto tune is fairly new it gets the blame for just about everything, due to emmision laws auto tune is here to stay, Stihl are also supplying machines with there version of auto tune, there is even a fuel injected Stihl power cutter so emmissions are having an effect on the way machines are being produced today and in the future.

A .325 sprocket is readily available for the 236, as the earlier 235/240 ran .325 as standard, this was dropped in favour of the 3/8 low profile chain, sprocket no. 530048132 .325 7 tooth

My 254FG

2100/2101 were good old machines, the only issue buying older machines is aquiring parts for it, 281/288 were good machines, or even a 380/480, all these models are old school but run very well, but you must think about parts availability.

The Noram clutch is not adjustable or servicable, there was two versions of the clutch, the early clutch had a pressed steele pulley on the bottom, the later noise compliant clutch had a cast pulley on the bottom, the importer of the clutch was Broadbent drives, there part no.s were early clutch CB117, later clutch was a CB127, if they are still about you should find them on the web.

As i recall the 1100 and the 2100 had a red Femsatronic one peice electronic unit, this was replaced on the 2101 to a black SEM unit, at the same time the flywheel was changed to go with the unit, the black SEM unit was also used on the 480 and the 265RX, unfortunatly the flywheel was different from the 480 amd 265 due to having three starter dogs rather than two, if you can get the later unit and electronic unit you can retro fit it. Unit part no. 501831901 flywheel 501832201

You have no chance of buying a new 346 or 357, you may pick up a decent second hand one, but you need to know what your buying, there are numerous auto tune saws from Husqvarna,545,555,550,560, the 545 replaces the 353 and cheaper than the 550 so why not give it a go make sure its a 2013/14 production machine. good saw.

The amount of fuel your talking about i would say has to be the needle valve in the carb leaking, the only real test is to pressure test the carb with a small bulb tester, this will tell you straight away if the needle is leaking, there is no need to remove the carb, pull the fuel hose out throught the filler, remove the fuel filter, connect the tester to the hose, there is no permissible leak allowed, you only need approx 2/3 psi.

If this is a non X Torq 365, just fit the 75cc clinder from the Husqvarna 375K instant power increase.

480 Was a great old saw, but before you start pulling carbs off awaus start with the easiest and cheapest things first, use a suitable wire hook to pull the fuel hose out of the tank and replace the fuel filter on the end, the pipe is barley long enough to get the filter out through the filler hole so go careful or the filter will come off and the pipe shot back into the tank