adw
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Everything posted by adw
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The carb comes complete with the auto tune unit, so no, it’s not like the Stihl, it does sound like it’s in boot mode i.e no software on it, when they said Husqvarna dealers were they just referring to odd jobbers, I think you need to ask a friendly Husqvarna dealer to plug it in and check.
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Has anybody fitted a new carb on it?
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If the spark arrester is not blocked then is the exhaust port itself blocked, or the muffler, slacken the muffler off and see if it will rev, if not remove the muffler completely and check the exhaust port for blockage.
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The impulse actually creates a positive and negative pulse due to the action of the piston movement, this is transferred to the pump diaphragm which creates the pump action.
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Oh dear, we have are work cut out here.
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The small consumer saws, trimmers and blowers use silica bores and chrome rings, we used chrome bores on the first Husqvarna 181 will twin steel rings, strange choice, you could drop the rings into the cylinder and they only just touched the sides.
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I just thought if you are going to do it, then do bearings and seals, if nothing else good experience if the chap is going to look after his own machines, I agree if the crank is shot it’s probably done, but once apart and bits cleaned up he may get his money back selling the good parts, I see it all the time, old machines taken in part exchange and sold off as individual components.
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I am a real fan of flex hone, you would be amazed cylinders you can recover, go split the crankcase no guts no glory,
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As you are only doing one it’s not worth shelling out on the tool, nice to have though, small blow torch, heat up to expand the alloy crankcase and TAP with copper or hide mallet, you could borrow the tool if you do not fancy heating it up.
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Looks typical Mahle cylinder, Husqvarna cylinders and pistons were graded a b c and even d, it all depended on the final hone of the cylinder, I guess today the manufacturing is so much more accurate,
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Because i think there is an issue with springs sir, the 254 clutch is a different design and as you are on .325 and a short bar it may be a better option.
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If you have no purge bulb there should no clear hose, if the saw has had a new tank it will have the return hose connection on the tank, these are blanked off an only opened if you have a purge, saws racing on idle is more than likely an air leak, or it could be fuel starvation, check the simple things first, fuel filter in the tank blocked? tank breather blocked ? dirt in the carb screen? stiff metering diaphragm, if all ok then air leak, leaking seal, blown gasket.
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I am just trying to think why you couldn’t fit a 254 clutch on it, I will try it when I get a minute.
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I would be pulling this machine apart to find that pin, they have a habit of appearing up the side of the replacement cylinder if you don’t, as for the gudgeon pin I have never seen one quite that bad, I would be a little concerned about the small end eye of the con rod.
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This is fast coming down to excessive vibration, or poor quality springs in my opinion, I just cannot see a bit of wear on the crank journal causing this.
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I have seen plenty of worn cranks from insufficient drum bearing lubrication and constant miss use of the chain brake, but certainly not enough to cause the clutch springs to break, did we see where the springs have broken?
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Not that bloody crank seal again!
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Picture one, has the ring peg come out? I have also seen wrist pins come very loose in the piston causing all sorts of issues, the joys of after market cylinders.
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Springs breaking after a few hours is very odd, , do they always break on the ends? high vibration can cause fatigue breakage of the springs, yes lets see some pictures, is this saw on .325 or 3/8 chain? bar length?
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No fun in that sir.
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We could always start a thread guess the model.
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No that is not a 350, the front of the tank I can see is a 550 I would say.
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Though I must have missed that one, so we guess it’s a 550, the bar adjuster pawl just takes up the chain slack, it’s the bar nuts that should secure the bar, so as was said oiling issue maybe, incorrect adjustment to start with, chain sharpening, timber being cut, after market chain etc.
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350xp ?
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The simple answer is no there is no longer bar bolt readily available, somthing like the 266 bar bolt would be slightly longer, however you will have to reduce the diameter of the shank as it will be slightly too big to fit the existing hole in the crankcase.
