Macpherson
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Everything posted by Macpherson
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Yep,... not that I want to derail your thread but borax has had many uses over the years....it's interesting that you use it on the veggies, I've read that many folk have a borax deficiency apparently due to the fact that since the introduction of artificial fertilisers many crops have been inhibited from taking it up from the soil, as it's one of the micro nutrients needed for all life the knock on effect of this may be large... but I'm no expert on the subject, all the best .
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Hi, some of it looks quite impressive, if it's not soggy try scrapping off the white fungus and soak it with an anti fungal, I use a solution of sodium borate ,borax [ before I stack ] but it should have the desired effect as borax is the basis of many wood rot treatments including dry rot. 1kg is less than £6 on ebay and easily dissolves into 5 gallons of hot water......worth a try, cheers.
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Can't be too bad....... if it's all in as good nick as it looks and you got a deal I think you did ok..... I know what I paid for similar, all the best with your project, cheers.
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Me too for aux oiler when wood is very hard and dusty dry, ....is the bark on the log ? ..could the source of the sparks be dirt or are they from metal to metal.... it would have to be really hot. I quite often see occasional small sparks when cutting or milling in the half light at this time of year...but not from the interface of bar and chain....... Also +1 for running it in......perhaps the bar and chain as much as the saw. All the best.
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Hi, fairly sure the 660 is 12 x 1 mm LH...if you download the service manual you should get it, or just measure with a vernier / mic and a rule for the pitch, cheers.
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There was a self build featured on telly where Larch was used from the builders own wood, it was taken to a mill who sawed it and then graded it......the guy was sweating blood about whether it would make the grade....in the end it exceeded C50 ! In my experience Larch is massively tougher than any of the usual white softwood available from builders merchants and can be [ at least from the point of view of a builder ] self certified in a similar way to oak for example, ie, simply inspect for obvious defects.....whether this stands up to regulations, I don't know, cheers.
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Hi, I looked into this several years ago when I started milling, apparently the pulse induction { beach type } is best for the purpose. I bought a C scope CS4pi which has so far identified and led to me avoiding metal on many occasions, it's hard to judge to what depth it sees to as when it finds metal you obviously don't cut at that point but from using it I recon it detects at least up to 12". Just last month it found metal in the butt of a large spruce up to a height of about 4 feet so I just cut it above and avoided the problem...I don't suppose I'll be lucky 100% of the time, but so far so good.....There's a second hand one on ebay at the moment....hope this helps.
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Firebricks - clay or vermiculite?
Macpherson replied to aesmith's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
They must have changed then, my squirrel has fire clay...it's about 10 years old. I'm still on the originals, although the two side ones have a crack they still do the job........I see on ebay I can get a full set of clay bricks for £37 or vermiculite replacements for £31.....it would seem that the clay ones are a better buy bearing in mind the difference in service life quoted buy others. -
These Americans have obviously got unlimited cash, ... I made my sled for next to nothing... I use it on my deck ' which is the flattest area I've got ...it works great ! The cutter I use is 1 1/2" and is probably jist about as big as a normal router could cope with.... the router in the vid looks like it wasn't cheap ! probably cost as much as the saw....or more !! Don't see the point of doing any of this until the timber is seasoned as there's a good chance it'll move during the process no matter how well it's stacked and banded. cheers.
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Hi, I use them all the time, they work well particularly as you can drill through the piece you want to fix and then bolt it on without first removing to insert rawlplug. The only down side that I've found is that there not high tensile [ at least the ones I've used ] so they don't like going in overly deep without the risk of sheering, the hole needs to be ideally blown clean before insertion, and over time they will probably sheer if you want to remove them, specially the smaller sizes, cheers. There's wire in them posts Here's another trick.......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSCR3dwaDTo&t=283s
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So your probably quite young then.... how could you possibly know anything.....?....I have to say that I totally agree with your last sentiment.
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I burn a fair variety but a mix of holy and scots pine makes a very hot fire
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Yeah, I can see that the deeper the cut you try to take the more the chance of flex taking place....tbh I'm usually fairly happy with the finish of the cut, I nearly always end up finishing a slab with a router sled once seasoned if it's too big for a planer, [ I'm not doing this commercially ] cheers.
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Not that I've noticed, but I'll be milling in a couple of weeks so I'll see if I can detect the bowing you described. Although my my mill is 48" I'm only currently milling with a 660 and a 36" bar, but when I get an excuse I intend to get the 54" GB bar that'll let me make use of the full size of the jig. Need to find a bigger a saw first.....it's gonna be costly?
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Sorry nowhere near my mill at the moment, I think your mill looks pretty much the same, a pal of mine has one and tbh I can't fault it. I'm simply inserting a rubber buffer between the saw and the bottom part of the clamp on the mill, hopefully without transferring too much vibes back to the saw.....I just never liked the amount of bar flex from the very first time I mounted it in the jig [ stihl es bar ] , cheers.
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HI, I never liked the bar flex between the power head and the clamping point from the start of my milling adventure.....there was someone on here experienced a fatigue crack on a sugi bar probably due to this movement. To restrict this flex without risking too much vibration transfer to the power head, which would probably be detrimental and possibly destructive, I've glued about 1" of high density rubber strip to the mill where the spikes meet up with it ...a wee strip of oak on the spikes....and the the saw pushed against the buffer when clamping, still allows a little movement and seems to work. It works better with the spikes off, but usually I can't be bothered unless I'm looking for an extra couple of inches in the mill, cheers.
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Quite pleased with this "bodge" , a fence for a wee table saw
Macpherson replied to difflock's topic in General chat
Hi, I'm pretty sure It's the same as my Macalister flipover which was from B&Q , about 10 years ago......may help if you need parts, cheers. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=macallister+flip+over+saw&rlz=1C1GGRV_enGB751GB752&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=AG_w9AC0RKu1hM%3A%2C-HKy9Pk9mv8oRM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kQ70ikt7Hzr5fok7jVTVai35PCR9g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjFz8abzcXeAhXoIsAKHcAzC6EQ9QEwC3oECAQQBA#imgrc=lcyg44pPcovM6M: -
A rather neat dovetail saw, wielded by an even neater craftsman
Macpherson replied to difflock's topic in General chat
Fantastic skill and beautiful tools, thanks -
what about this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pneumatic-48mm-Telescopic-Jockey-Wheel-and-Clamp-200mm-Wheel-Caravan-800lbs/232926423196?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55148%26meid%3D5bf90bdd0d3341cf8e4beb46b4ad33eb%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D232926423196&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226
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Yep, when you bought machine tools back years ago they often came with a coating that looked like varnish but in fact it was often a coat of one of the 'drying' oils.....I've used tung because I've got it ....stops things going rusty in the shed.....but so does an oily rag
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWGdVV1toug Made something like this a few years ago... a real handy jig to have when you need it, but a pita if you just want a quick result, cheers
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yeah, direct action with a smile is often the best way. ?
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Seems logical that the main thing that effects the cutting of any material is that the cutting edge is prepared in such a way as to optimise the cutting of the material being cut. A fact that's extremely important in the cutting of metal for instance, where tool speed, tool design, angle of cut, lubrication and sharpening vary enormously depending on the material being machined..... you can't really get away with getting it being wrong...... and although wood is much more forgiving, imo a chain sharpened to cut soggy spruce efficiently is not the same as the chain I'd want to cut dry seasoned hardwood like oak for instance. So although the variables when cutting wood as opposed to metal are more subtle, at the end of the day the principals of the design and speed of the cutting edge are the only thing that's important in the cutting of any material, cheers.
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A Revolutionary Diamond Sharpener For Chainsaws?
Macpherson replied to Stere's topic in General chat
Hi, they last quite well...I'd say longer than a hand file but then I'm not a commercial user.......the main thing for me is that they retain their profile as opposed to a carborundum stone.....cheap enough to give them a try, cheers. -
A Revolutionary Diamond Sharpener For Chainsaws?
Macpherson replied to Stere's topic in General chat
Thanks for the link, a handy tool, I,ve been using a similar set up for some years now but interestingly they're able to supply rotary files with the threaded shank which will probably fit the Granberg grinder, and at a very reasonable price. Also they do diamond sharpening tools for many different applications, cheers.
