Macpherson

Just estimated figures [ not by me ] but during the height of the ice age sea levels were approximately 400 feet lower and should all the ice on the planet melt 240 feet higher than now has been suggested. It.s all happened before, it's a cycle..... the main difference next time will be the hundreds of nuclear power stations that are mostly down by the sea.....

I have one of these and it did the same after I'd had it a while, the secret is that you don,t try to start it in the conventional manner ie by strongly pulling the cord..... you just apply even gentle pressure until the machine springs its self into action... so you don't follow right with your arm. I get the feeling that on a cold day the idea's at it's limit and you have to be careful, cheers.

Hi, I simply run mine off a cheapo battery charger, does the job ....or off my car.

As far as I know mobile tyre fitters have a relatively small compressor charging a large enough receiver for they're needs. The air spade in question needs 280 L /min or 10 cfm .....When buying air tools the volume needed is usually stated in the spec.

I've used this one... a lot better tool quality wise than the generic Chinese versions but a bit light, the cheap screwfix type will break rock no bother but like I said ..keep it dry and no spares available....I've got this one at the moment, can't really complain about it considering the price, 1800W Electric Demolition Hammer Breaker Jack Drill Concrete Hammer Power Tool WWW.EBAY.CO.UK It is generally used for tearing up foundations, ripping up driveways, demolishing reinforced concrete floors or walls, breaking through solid rock. Suitable for chiseling works on...

Just to say , all these cheap demo hammers are I think mostly one or other of two designs, I.ve had several. A stupid wee bit will fail and there's no spares available... you need to spend far more to get a decent tool unless you only need it for one job and don;t care. I can't imagine trying to break Scottish rocks down a hole with a 3 foot chisel on !! Perhaps like me, you need a digger?

I use a large electric breaker but that looks like a useful bit of kit....not too costly either. It's worth knowing that the Chinese electric breakers do not like the wet or even damp conditions, I keep a plastic sack over mine when out......if moisture gets to the brushes they can evaporate spectacularly, cheers.

Hi, just bought one of these s/h for similar reasons, might have a stronger frame..there's a whole range of sizes but they're a bit pricey new, cheers. Shop For Gazebo WWW.GALATENT.CO.UK Sells a wide range of shapes and sizes of commercial and recreational quality pop up gazebos, delivered next day free in uk.

Wish I had a tractor.......

Husky tongs are bigger than Stihl which I find to be annoyingly just a wee bit small but Oregon do them just a tad bigger than the Huskys and with better more comfortable grips this makes all the difference, I've got all three and the quality of each is about the same.

Hi, if it's a regular bearing the numbers are usually etched on the side of the outer race, I now usually buy bearings on fleabay....generally the easiest way to get them. If you can't see numbers, measure the bearing with vernier calipers and google for a match, cheers.

Hi, I did this recently...4mm clearance according to this, cheers Using Chemical Fixings Or Anchors | How to Use Chemical Fixings and Resin Anchors | DIY Doctor WWW.DIYDOCTOR.ORG.UK Chemical Fixings and Resin Anchors - How to correctly use chemical fixings and resins to anchor into brick and blockwork and avoid splits and cracks

Yep, Love the smell.....it didn't last long ! I'm thinking that the problem with alcohol in petrol is the petrol..... maybe I should mix some Stihl green with some pure spirit?

Great video, thanks. By coincidence I also used melamine on my router sleds to make them fairly frictionless. I also think that the key to doing either of these processes, planing or routing, is a large flat surface.... after you've got that to screw/ clamp onto the rest is simple and it would be hard to go wrong, I use a 5 x 2m deck that's about 2 feet off the ground....a couple of rails fixed to this and then any sled you like to make, I've got a few different widths, very easy to make and cost nothing.....I can see a large handheld plane on my shopping list, cheers.

Yep, you just beat me to it. I remember as a school boy running a Bantam on methanol....It went like shit off the proverbial hot shovel. Running a low comp engine on high octane fuel may only be a waste whereas running a high comp engine on low octane fuel can definitely cause damage.

Very nice looking tool as said....you'd probably need the second biggest and at best part of a grand by the time you get it...not exactly cheap, but I suppose if you had a lot of work for it you could make it pay. My home made wooden router sled cost nothing and works well but is simple, rough and ready and no comparison to that set up... cheers.

I've no probs leaving the fuel in the tank with ethanol shield, saws outboards and various other stuff, I'm in no doubt that the fuel may be able to last for a while... but it doesn't stop it attracting H2O if conditions are damp... which is very annoying. I know it's a chainsaw forum......but many folk use petrol powered machines that are far more expensive and important than saws, the truth of the matter is, that the effect on saws or any other engine that get used regularly is minimal as the fuel goes through quick and it's gone, so your constantly adding fresh..... this is completely different to many other applications where you have any kind of petrol powered machine that you use occasionally, but then again ...just my take on the problem

I thought I 'd put a link to this short video on the subject of ethanol, it's funny how that in the USA this is an issue that's out there and has been for some time.... whereas here in UK perhaps a few folk on various small forums may be gradually catching on but there's virtually no mainstream general info in circulation and a very low level of general knowledge on the subject. Also when you google or look on ebay for " fuel tester for ethanol "....A simple graduated test tube... there's nothing at all available for sale in this country although in the USA it would seem that such a tool would be every mechanics toolbox ....'they' simply don't want the subject discussed here. When's the last time you heard a mechanic at your local garage diagnosing an ethanol related problem ? In fact most of the mechanics that I know are either unaware, glaze over when the subject's mentioned or just simply dismiss the idea.

Then I'll just take that as fact then ! Without wanting contradict you at all, it's interesting that when I google it now....your right......But a couple of years ago, when I did the same thing, all UK petrol was E10....and as I said, didn't know about the diesel. You can't believe a single thing your fed by any government or corporation. The only way to find out is to test it for yourself

I don't suppose it does anything to big engines though ? Who knows what the true global costs of these policies are and who's agenda it is in the first place. Didn't know it was in diesel as well now.....great !!

I have a mostly beach garden hedge and I wish that 20 years ago I hadn't been tempted to mix other stuff into it....Hawthorn, Holly, Swedish Whitebeam, Cotoneaster and a bit of Hornbeam...even the Beach isn't all the same. It looks fine and would probably be great as a large wild barrier that gets bashed once a year with a tractor but as a neatly trimmed garden hedge it's a pita as it all comes into leaf at different times and grows at different rates, so what I wanted to be low maintenance definitely isn't, ....lesson learned for me.

Used this for a number of years and believe that it does what it claims, cheers. Ethanol Shield Fuel Stabiliser 118ml WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM Triple antioxidant fuel stabiliser eliminates then prevents ethanol related problems, promoting easy engine starting. Protect machinery from the corrosive effects of ethanol...

Not wanting to contradict anyone but from an engineering point of view a helicoil [ properly fitted ] is a perfectly acceptable engineering repair although setting yourself up to do 1 thread repair wouldn't be practical due to the cost of the right tools. Typically about an hours labour on a job like yours if you can find someone you trust with the right kit, good luck.

Neat tool, I could see that being handy, cheers.

Once they've snapped in the hole they're not so easy out, good luck.