thetoolnut

I have a weakness for expensive shiny stuff so I have plenty of Dmm stuff, ? I have rigged lots of Lelandi and macci crowns with just a Pinto rig, 14mm bull line and a Stein 1 tonne bollard. I have the small Dmm impact block, shiny! ???

Sound man Spud, ? I did everything you advised here earlier in the Week. As I have an older model 660 without the plus minus icon underneath the adjustment screw on the oiler I may have inadvertently shut off the pump, ?? I'm used to my 241 and 261 which both have those plus minus indicators. I'll let you know how I get on. A high output oiler is on my list anyway because that 660 is my go to saw for big stuff. I'm hoping to get an Alaskan or a Panther mill down the line so I'll need the extra oil flow.

Thanks for your input, ? I'll have a look at my 660 and report back to you asap. I have an older 660 without the plus minus icon underneath the adjustment screw. Hence the possibility that I may have inadvertently closed off the pump, ??

Afternoon Gents, My 660 oiler is playing up a bit, I'm running an Oregon 32" .063 powermatch bar and full comp chain. The oiler packed in on a job recently, I stripped the saw down so as to get the oil pump out. The oiler arm looks ok and the pump moves oil if the gear is moved manually with ones thumb. I flushed out the oil tank with petrol and the oil filter is clear. I blew compressed air into the oil line from the pump side and blew the vacum seal and the pump itself. I put the saw back together and fired her up. The chain is getting a minuscule amount of oil. I know from experience that Stihl Oilers are quite stingy and have minimum adjustment. Maybe I'm missing something simple here, for example have I got the adjustment screw in the closed position rather than open. There is no plus or minus icons near the adjustment screw. Intuitively one would imagine that clockwise is closed and anti-clockwise is open. I know there is a high output oiler available for the 660, I'll probably get one of those anyway. Any pointers from 660 users would be most appreciated, Thanks, ?

No problem, glad to be of some assistance. I hung out of the older version of the Sequoia in my local suppliers once, It was cutting me in half from the off. I never liked the look of those plastic clips for the leg loops and waist band. The newer one looks a bit better though. If one could combine the best bits of the T.M and the M.B one would have the perfect harness.

Fill them up with warm water, put them on and go for a five mile run. When you come back take them off and set them aside to dry. Don't stuff them full of newspaper. When they have dried out naturally they will have moulded themselves to the shape of your feet.

Yup, bought one four months ago. Only got around to climbing in it Today. I had it roughly dialed in from hanging out of it in my workshop. Initial impressions are that it is very comfortable and very well made. I haven't tried the upper D's yet, just had my lanyard on the rigging plates. The Rock Exotica rigging plates are only ok. I dislike the fact that their black, hi-viz green like my T.M would have been a better choice. The bridge is a lumpy bit of 13mm so I'll probably change that. The leg loops wrap right around and give support from just above the knee. I bought the extra padding for the leg loops which just attach with velcro. This harness is infinitely adjustable like the T.M but has more comfort. One thing I always hated about the T.M was the shock cord that attaches the leg loops to the waist belt, none of that on the M.B. Soild webbing attachments everywhere thankfully. In time I'll swap out the bridge for something a little more streamlined like the adjustable bridge from Petzl. I'll probably change the rigging plates for the lower D's on the new T.M. This harness was designed by two experienced working climbers and it shows. This will be my number one harness going forward and the T.M will be my backup/rescue harness. The M.B cost me approximately €500 inc shipping, I purchased a size medium. I'm a 36" waist and there was plenty of spare webbing on all the adjustments to tape up. I hope this helps, [emoji106][emoji16][emoji318]

Fair play to you, great to see a young lad with a bit of drive and not afraid of a bit of hard graft. Are you Irish?

He did a very good srt tutorial on Y.T that I enjoyed, really knows his stuff.

In a word, yes.

Nasty, I once ripped the pad of my left thumb open with my Zubat. I wasn't even climbing, just wanted to show my hand saw to a friend of mine. The saw was new so still a bit sticky in the sheath, it wouldn't come out so I grabbed the sheath above the lip and pulled out the saw and sliced myself open with it. Five stiches, nerve damage and serious embarrassment! Not one of my finest moments.

I'm looking for some climbing work in Norway, Sweden or Finland in September.

I'm thinking of travelling to Finland, Sweden or Norway in September for a two Week working holiday. Yes I know! a working holiday is a contradiction I'm willing to climb or work on the ground for food and accommodation, thanks.

Any timeline on the 562xp mark two Dave??

I was referring to the top and side impact ratings being compatible with groundwork and climbing on the Protos.

I have three helmets, i'm happy enough! [emoji16] As far as I'm aware and I could be wrong but the Pfanner Protos is the only Arb helmet rated for climbing and groundwork.

Pulley saver all the way!

I'll be getting a M.B next Month, I'll post a quick review after a few climbs in it.

The Andrews are the tits!

I've been looking at it as well, looks like the waist and leg loop buckles have been improved. Also I see that the lower dees are bigger and more user friendly.

Outstanding, thanks.

I tried forestandarb, couldn't find it. Any chance you could post a link? Thanks.

Sound Dave, I'll pop the fuel line back in and see.

Outstanding, thanks, [emoji106]

Interesting, thanks,