peatff
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Everything posted by peatff
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Same reason they aren't still making Ford Cortinas I expect. Things move on even though we don't always appreciate what is happening. What do we need fuel injection for, carbs always worked for me and I know how to fix them when they go wrong? Not really, I think saws will get better with injection only thing I don't like is cat converters gobbing exhausts up.
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Measure the gudgeon pin and little end bearing with a vernier when you take it apart. I don't know why Stihl did a 10mm and 12mm version of the same saw, mine is a 12mm with no cat and it cuts fine. Not much slows it down. I drilled a few holes in the baffle while I had it apart but it still has only one outlet.
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You just gotta have faith, chainsaw evangelist kind of thing.
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He now trades as tree_and_grass_spares still has plenty of stuff on for sale not all for chainsaws these days. I've had carbs, carb kits, pistons and other parts from various sellers and had no problems. Not had problems with OEM stuff either. Garden hire spares and the like are good for saw spares
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Which bit does the chainsaw fit in ?
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Or a training scheme..
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MS460 gasket is fair bit bigger, I got one a while back and the whole saw is a piece larger than the 044 which is more like my 036 in size. I only use cheap chains because the wood we cut is rough stuff covered in soil sometimes and has been known to contain wire at times.
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I gave £100 for mine and it cost a piston and base gasket and a carb kit to fix it. I treated it to a Wartech bar and chains from eBay as well, the bar is ok but the chains were dubious. It's got a Northern Arb Rotatech chain on now, works well and not dear.
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I'll take your word for it
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I was out walking a while ago and saw two blokes who made me look young (I'm 67) one holding and one up the ladder cutting the low branches off a Poplar with a B&Q special which looked like it really needed sharpening. The branches were angled up and he was cutting from the outside so the saw got trapped and he came down for the bow saw, went back up and started cutting above the saw and I swear the bow saw was quicker than the chainsaw. When the branch went the tension was off the saw and he nearly dropped the bow saw on his mate catching the chainsaw before it sailed out the tree. I wished I'd had the foresight to film it.
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Mine was seized solid when I got it I had to beat the piston with a rod after I poured penetrating oil down the plug hole and stood it overnight. I was doubtful about the cylinder when I cleaned it up and just put a cheap eBay piston in it but it has been perfect since. It has no decompression and is a 12mm pin model with manual choke, runs well.
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I cleaned up and reused the original cylinder on my early model 044 and can't remember seeing any breather from the cylinder to the carb. Do you mean the impulse ?
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Set the screws to the recommendation and turn the idle screw in to speed it up. Get it warmed up then turn the idle down till the chain stops running. Where are you someone local might be able to help you.
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A couple of my old saws are now run on Aspen and all I had to do to them was richen up the L screw a bit to get them to tick over. They have no problems running on it.
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Just get one that cuts wood
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The primer has a one way valve setup so it pulls fuel from the tank through the carb and is on the return line to the tank so some fuel will be passing through it all the time in use. As above it's just to make starting quicker and easier. I only need to use it on mine to start and not for restarts once the saw has been running. I have a few older saws without primer bulbs but none of them take more than 4 or 5 pulls to cough on choke even when weather is cold.
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Do you lift the bar tip while you are tightening the nuts ? There looks a fair bit of play in the bar slot.
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It's time for a new saw probably, that one is about 40 years old and deserves a rest Get a carb kit and try refurbishing it, it may be getting fuel but not in the right proportion if it is spitting it out the exhaust.. It's an old Tillotson design so they might be difficult to get in UK.
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I've used my 135 and several MS181 and MS180 or 018 saws and the 135 feels much stronger and pulls better in bar length cuts. It also stays cleaner in use, not so much blowing down and clearing dust out after cutting. I have a couple of older larger Stihls I use and am not prejudiced against them they are good saws, I love my 036
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Put some fuel straight into the plug hole then try it. It should at least fire and if it is getting fuel it should run.
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I haven't seen one of those it's a new one on me. Is there any adjustment on the cable ?
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Stihl MS181 uses a 3/8 chain, Husqvarna 435 uses .325, you could get a Husqvarna 135 II or a 120 for less money both good saws. MS181 is a smaller engine and the C-BE has the awful easy adjust chain tensioner for people who are scared of spanners.
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'cos he's a funny feller ?
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At £100 I'd have it if it was local just to take it to pieces and have a look. Best I got yet was MS460 for £100.
