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sandspider

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Everything posted by sandspider

  1. Thanks. There's already a bypass hole in the cat mounting plate as it happens, but I don't really want to mess with the cat or retuning yet. Happy to just have the saw working, probably without a spark arrestor screen!
  2. I'd guess mine is rev limited, it won't rev above a certain level either in wood or out of it. Can I just drill a few holes in the spark mesh? I assumed I could take it out and put it back in if necessary, but apparently not. Hefty cat in there too, but that I will leave alone.
  3. I pulled the muffler off thinking the spark arrester would just slip out. Nope! It's welded / brazed in, and part of the exhaust gas deflector thingy so I can't even drill off the welds. Is it just a case of drilling holes in the spark arrester mesh?
  4. Thanks folks. It does have a cat, will have a look in the muffler tomorrow and see what I can find, but probably won't take it out, just the spark arrestor. Couldn't see any sparks coming out, just hot exhaust which heated the spark arrestor up until it glows...
  5. So if I remove the spark arrester, it won't change how it runs? (No need to retune or anything) And it shouldn't get so hot in the exhaust regions? Thanks.
  6. But everything is so flammable here in soggy Wales! I'm not a monster!
  7. Hi all Running a newish Makita EA3500, logging up a big ash trunk, about bar length, and I noticed that the spark arrestor was glowing red hot! Is this normal? I stopped and let it cool for a while, but don't want to knacker anything. I'm running 98RON petrol with Briggs & Stratton fuel stabiliser, and Husqvarna XP two stroke synthetic engine oil at 50:1. I did vaguely wonder if adding the stabiliser to the petrol before mixing the 2 stroke might make the saw run a bit leaner and therefore hotter? But it is only 50ml to 5 litres of petrol, so not a huge difference... Thanks.
  8. I think it might be because magpies are horrible bastards...
  9. Boobs boobs boobs boobs...?!
  10. Just shifting some ash under cover so I can split in the rain if I need to. For winter 2024.
  11. X27 until I messed up my wrist, now 7 ton Forest Master. I also have a smaller axe (Fiskars X10 I think) for single handed left handed usage. Feels a bit wrong, but still splits well.
  12. I had a tree surgeon check it, and he thinks it'll be fine for a good while yet.
  13. It has been dry, but the small plants are still inside and I'm watering them manually, as I did for the small nitens & neglecta. i did use plastic weed membrane, but I probably won't do again as it's gathering soil on top and growing stuff, and also starting to break down in the UV. I'll mulch with carboard in future, and once the eucs are about 1m tall they seem to take off regardless! (Well, the nitens and neglecta did anyway)
  14. Just a quick update - I'm growing some E. gunnii from seed to add to my collection. Hopefully these will coppice better (I've also been advised to grow E. glaucescens, so may try that next year). However, the E. gunnii are growing a good bit slower than the E. nitens and neglecta I planted the first time. It's about 6 weeks after planting, and the gunnii are about 8cm tall at best. Can't find pics of the nitens and neglecta at this age, but as I remember they were at least twice as tall. They were 30 - 40 odd cm tall when I planted them out at 16 weeks or so.
  15. Is this best done towards Autumn, when the plant is drawing reserves (and therefore glyphosate) back into its roots? Or will it work at any time of year?
  16. Right, I've investigated further, and the patch of really rotten bark is only about 20cm by 30cm. Wood under the bark is solid, as is most of the bark. Given the tree is probably 60cm across and has good healthy leaves still I reckon it'll be ok until at least next year? I've hopefully cut through the ivy now so that should die off in due course. I'll keep an eye on the rest of the trunk.
  17. Thanks for the thoughts, all. Twigs are normal brown when broken, not orangey alder brown. And I found a few suckers at the base, pretty sure it's an elm, most likely Wych elm. So I reckon it'll last until next year ok.
  18. Thanks Dan. I think it's elm, but I'm not sure. It's only got about 3 shrivelled leaves high up and I can't id it for sure.
  19. Thanks Dan, appreciate the thoughts. That hole I made myself today, just by pulling the bark off. So it may recover in time! Didn't look like it though, to be honest. It may be more like 1/4 of the trunk affected, and only for about a foot or two vertically. I'll investigate further tomorrow. There's a phone line under the tree, and also it could probably reach the garage...
  20. I found another one! This one's an alder, but with heavy ivy load. It's got a decent canopy so I thought it was healthy itself - but I went over to cut the ivy at it's base and discovered some rot. (See pics). The rot only seems to be on about 1/3 of the trunk at DBH, and only seems to be the bark - the wood underneath is solid. So I hope it's not a big problem? Or if the cambium is dead will the tree stop passing nutrients / water to / from the leaves and roots? (Probably not as long as some of the bark is still healthy?) Thanks.
  21. Hi all I have this tree, just across a stream from my garage. Last year it was leafy (as far as I remember) but this year it's got hardly any foliage - so I assume it's dead or nearly so. As it was fairly healthy last year, I hope there's no imminent danger of it falling on my garage? And if it does fail / rot, presumably bits will fall off it before the whole lot goes? It's not huge, so hopefully wouldn't do too much damage even if it did fall... I think it's an elm or possibly alder, but can't remember and there's no decent foliage left to identify it. In theory we've got some tree work that we need doing next year (when we can afford it), it would be good to add this to it (probably monolithed) rather than having to do it sooner, if possible. Thank you.
  22. I'll look at the ground more! 😁
  23. We have a few of the greater spotted here, but have never seen a green, unfortunately.
  24. If I remember right, owls learn to fly by trial and error, so they'll end up on the ground a lot. Parents should be watching from somewhere and looking after it, so leave owl fledglings be...

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