wisecobandit

Always fancied a sugihara bar and whilst looking through Robs site my finger slipped and bought myself one (honest Mrs.Wiseco...) Was a bit of a toss up between a stihl and the sugi (36") but as ive got a couple of new chains that fit the sugi but not the stihl the decision was made.(sugi 104 links stihl 108 links) Plus the sugi looks much nicer.... I know they are meant to last well but anyone got any words of wisdom be it good or bad in relation to these bars and there upkeep?

Yup me to. I just love the health and safety aspect of it

210, 230 and 250 share the same crank but the rod on the 210 is 6mm shorter. 210 short crank 40mm bore 230 long crank 40mm bore 250 long crank 42.5mm bore Thats one range of saws I am clued up on and actually like working on much to everyone elses disgust lol

You sure the 210 is the same Eddy? Not saying your wrong but I didn't think they where. IIRC the 170/180 is the same engine apart from bore size, Also I believe the rod on the 170 and 180 is flat steel whereas the rod on a 210 is an "I" beam shape and cast.

Just make sure everything is grease/oil free and dry before you try rebuilding up the areas. Also make sure the area your applying to is nice and rough to get a good bond. You may find you may even be able to just jb weld a nut in place and build it up on the sides if the threaded area doesn't need to be to deep.

Ditch the kat. It weighs a ton and is a glorified catalytic converter that stifles the engine. Ive only seen a few in the uk so assume they where off imported saws possibly. Im not just saying that as I have a spare OE coated not painted 044 exhaust kicking around doing nothing either. :-p Remember to measure the piston pin size before ordering a new piston as early ones where 10mm and later 12mm.

fill them up with chemical metal/ jb weld and retap threads? Just don't overtighten the screws tho afterwards. If you've broken out the sides use tape or similar so it doesn't run out everywhere before filling the holes

Yeah any stihl dealer can get them. Most will prob have the mtr of pipe in stock. Just give them the above part numbers and they will get it easily.

Yeah that's the impulse and fuel line I mentioned about replacing in my earlier post. The metre of pipe is the correct stuff for that and you will have spare aswell for other saws.

0000 930 2803 for the mtr of fuel pipe 1111 358 7700 for the in tank hose I believe which is actually the same as the ts760 cut off saw and the 090. IPL list it as 4702 358 7700 but its been superseded. About £8 for both the above

Bear with me, I will look them up. Ive definetly bought the in tank pipe recently so available and not expensive. The other pipe tho? Are you talking the fuel feed which connects to the aforementioned pipe via the white elbow or are you talking the impulse? Both are the same pipe which again is cheap as chips and bought per mtr for a few quid. In the meantime heres summit to watch- old school baby lol [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pn7iQ7evVRQ]BUCKING BIG SPRUCE WITH STIHL 075AV - YouTube[/ame]

Got my grubby mitts on an 084 today which had the plastic cage bearing on the clutch drum disintergrate and in turn melted the oil pump gear. Somebody had had a go at it and manage to break the clutch unsuccessfully trying to remove it. First was to give it a full clean due to the dirt, dust and sawdust. Got it all apart and cleaned up for reassemble, as its one for myself and the oil pump gear is no longer available through stihl I managed to track down a new old stock one in Canada and also ordered a new complete clutch and other bits from here in the uk. £150 lighter in the pocket for parts but im still a happy bunny.. After that I stripped the carb and rebuilt, drained and refilled the fuel and oil etc. Compression tested at 135 psi which im not alarmed by given its hasn't run for some time so bore was dry. Anyway cut a long story carb settings where totally wrong - over 3 turns out and the sparkplug was only a grade 4 so new plug fitted. Replaced plug with correct and got her fired up so atleast I know its a sweet runner. Probably now have to wait 3 weeks for the part to arrive from Canada now I guess.

Agg is bang on. Give it a good clean, replace the fuel and impulse line. new plug (you will need a short plug scrench for these) check to make sure you have a spark etc. I would probably give the carb a quick strip and clean aswell, its only a ten minute job once you've done it a few times. Whenever Ive rebuilt 1 I nearly always drop a teaspoon of fuel down the carb (just remove the airfilter) as it saves having to pull it over so many times to pull fuel through if the systems dry.

Im not clued up on fungi etc but it maybe felted pinkgill?

Glad to see its a proper 075 and not a converted 051 as it has the hand operated oil pump aswell as the automatic oiler. Check the chain to make sure its 404, it prob is but looks small in the pics. Remember also these saws will only rev to about 9500 as peak torque is made around 6500rpm. They sound like they aren't revving out like newer saws, its not a fault they are meant to be like that.

This may be of interest Model Profile: 075 AV 111cc basically the same as the newer 076 that replaced it apart from the oil filler cap. I love them and got several. Bits are still available, I rebuilt several and they are easy to work on. Theres not much they wont cut. They haven't the speed of the newer bigger saws but the torque is tremendous, lean on one and it wont slow down like a newer big saw and quite happily pull a 4ft bar when needed although weight is the main factor, you wouldn't want to be using it all day. I would recommend replacing the fuel line and impulse as they all always aged. Most had tillotson carbs but the very latest had walbro's fitted. They can give spark issues as they use a trigger mechanism behind the flywheel which is no longer available but theres an easy way around it when it happens. Many parts are shared with the 051 and the 510/760 cut off saws. Prices vary, like everything it depends what someone wants to pay for it, They are well suited to milling. The long bars are what cost the pounds on these saws so that makes a difference in value.

Best look at replys here... http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/35237-mitox-chainsaws.html

Stihl 075/076 gets my vote

These are prone to flooding. The trick is to forget about the decomp valve and not use it whatsoever until its a few months old. The decomp valves seem to struggle closing for some reason on the first fire. Start it the conventional way as per a stihl ie choke til it fires once then choke in. Firstly tho you will have to dry it out as per spuds way. Do it tonight and refit the plug in the morning and it should fire up without using the decomp..

Its meant to have a bung in in. Its should be a red plastic bung but they are never listed in the ipl's. They do blow out sometimes,ive repaired a few. You can use a little grub screw but nothing that will go in more than about 1/4" Its the top of tube in which the oiler pushes the oil up to the bar. Halfway up the tube is a hole that exits the oil to the bar. I don't know why they continue the tube and put a bung in the top, I guess its something to do with how the casing gets moulding in manufactuer.

The crankcase has nothing to do with the oiler side of things, I would've laughed at him if he told me that. Have you owned the saw from new? It may have a high capacity oil pump fitted and if your just cutting softwood its overkill. Everything I can see that's been written puts the pump itself at fault, both you and spud have gone thru the obvious, I would put a new pump on it and I reckon that will sort it.

But no 4x4 lol. Would love to know what tractor pulling it was tho it was used for, no weight over the rear wheels etc, only 200hp. Would still be a fun truck to own despite being a left hooker.

The 075 was introduced in 1974, some sites list the final productin year as 1980 but I believe that's more because Brazil loved it so much stihl kept making it for them for a few years. They also share most components with the 510/760 cut off saws which where made up until 2006 which lucky for us means despite age most spares are still a available which is a good thing. Lol true Agg, the same saw which Stihl decided if they put the oil filler on the side they could change it to an 076 lol. Also most have no chainbrake, mainly as the engine has so much torque they couldn't develop one that worked efficiently without cooking or distorting the brakeband etc

I've never seen any date stamps on one? Just take that part number in with you to the dealer and tell them to order it. They are still available just half the dealers just can't be bothered to look it up being an old saw, I love them and prob rebuilt a dozen. Get any problems let me know. Spec is 0.5mm thick gasket altho thickness wise it won't really matter but If you make one use proper gasket paper as a cereal packet gasket wont last long it will burn up there.

1111 129 1401 is the stihl part number. Still available from stihl around 50p each (theres one each side of the plate/guard) P.s I don't think it would be a 1978 if its an 075? I believe the changeover year from 075 to the 076 was 1977.