wisecobandit
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Everything posted by wisecobandit
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Yeah they are the same cylinders as the ts510 and ts760 disc cutter. If you want to upgrade to the 075/076 top end u will need the inlet manifold and exhaust. You will also need to buy the studs that hold the cylinder on and retap the threads in the saw to 6mm. (as you will have found out the 51 uses short bolts to hold the cylinder on - the 075/076 uses studs that run the whole length of the cylinder. Carbs are exactly the same.
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Ive got a soft spot for the 385 to not that ive used one but want one for the collection lol. There is one on ebay at the mo..
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Obviously depends on what your using it for and how frequently etc. Heavier use you want to be looking at a better quality "professional" model whereas if your only using it a few times a year a cheaper homeowner saw would suffice. Im sure others will advise but professional model from stihl would be the ms260/261 or homeowner the ms250 Professional husqy you will have to go slightly smaller or larger than 50cc with the 346xp or 357xp whereas homeowner models like the 350 or 353. How much do you want to spend?
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Stupid question but is beech really worth milling?? Whats it good for? Ive got 2 probably bigger than that to take down when the weathers better but was just gonna log them up... -
Get metre lengths from b and q around £6 depending on what size Its not the cheapest but its new so welds fine with no contaminents.
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Episan will be fine. Still available but not cheap oe (about £11 each iirc) P/n 1115 034 3010 Same rings as on the ms380 and 381
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Yup bang on. The serial number will start with the year of build. For example S/n 07 36565 which the first 2 is year (2007) and the next 2 the week of that year (36) and the 565 would be the 565th saw of week 36 in 2007 if that makes sense.
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No husqvarna 365 is an xp. The xt is the new model which stands for x torq which it will say on the starter pulley case likewise it would say special. Have you a picture of said saw or as nfg says a link? Husqvarna stopped making the original plain 365 in about 2003 where it was superseeded by the special til around 2010 when the x-torq model was brought out. If it just says 365 I would walk away as something isn't right and sounds like a copy.
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That's my thoughts although its not a saw I'm likely to use as the 357 tends to be my goto saw in general.
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Oh and what figure is it worth?
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So a deal was struck for an ms260 so I've got it and stuck it with the rest of the saws at the mo.. Now this is one of the last ones being a 2010 before the 261 came along. It's hardly seen any wood. Question is part of me thinks as its got a following and a bit iconic do I sell it on or just stick it away for 10 years in the attic or just keep it as a play thing?? What do we all reckon? I can't see the price increasing in much of a dramatic way in my opinion.
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The later xt 365 are all the same. It was only early models where the special was upgraded to side tensioner, walbro carb and adjustable oiling for the bar. All xt model 365's should have it as the change was made around 2003. I'm assuming we are talking main dealer here btw? Cheapest I've seen the xt is about 500. If your looking on the likes of ebay etc step carefully, there are new 365 specials which are new but atleast 2 years old but also the fact there are badged chinese xopys on there being sold as genuine husqvarna...
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Nice one mate. Sounds nice. What chain and filing are you using? Havent had much time to play with mine due to working silly hours or repairing saws in the evening etc. The longer summer eves will be here soon tho! Bought myself a new 395xp 6 weeks ago and not even put fuel in it let alone use it, its just sat on the shelf still boxed up lol!
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You will squeeze 235's on your rims I would think. General rule is 2 sizes wider than whats fitted tho. Got BFG mud terrains on my truck and find they do 2-3 years altho ive managed to put a split in 1 and need to replace it. What year is your truck? Later ones can use earlier alloys but not vica versa. The newer ones have a smaller centre hole so wont fit n earlier trucks.
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All my stuff on there finished last weekend. I will have a look around when I get chance but don't think theres much I can help you with im afraid.
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I would swap to stihl oil if I where you. Stihl 2 stroke rules. I would look as much at that as the fuel you use.
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Not common but more common than coil failure is the on/off switch itself failing.
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Most will agree and as said its extremely rare to get an unsalvageable pot. Most can be brought back to life after a good clean and aluminium removal and good quality replacement piston and rings. I don't know if its true but "supposedly" stihl 2 stroke has some fuel inhibitor in it to help fuel going stale but that's another thread in itself. That's the only oil I will use and all I recommend for what my opinions worth. However you now how a good excuse to get your cylinder ported whilst its apart or in the rare case the pot is cream crackered a hyway big bore kit....
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My bets on the second suggestion
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Good thread to start Spud. Ported an ms260 today but all back together again now except for the muffler which I need to mod with a piped outlet when I get chance. Had to stop work to make a start on the roast..... (bloody missus saying she would do a 12hr shift on a sunday!!)
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http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/67119-346-leaking-oil.html
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Good whilst they work but when they are a few years old and go wrong and not a cheap fix.... They get more and more disposable as time goes on. After a few years when the ecu packs up and cost several hundred quid to replace I can see most being broken down and sold for bits.
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kubota kx 015-4 mini digger anyone know anything about?
wisecobandit replied to swinny's topic in Large equipment
Yeah it is the service light so you don't forget its due a service. -
<p>Hi mate. I would just change it yearly. They only cost £3. The problem is altho the bearing rollers are metal the actual cage is plastic. Its mainly caused by tight chains and dry bearings etc. Sounds like you keep yours greased well. Most don't tend to touch them and they go dry and then the heat distorts them. There where 3 on ebay last week alone that all had the same issue.</p>
<p>The other thing I have found is twine and stringy wood can get in them and kill them also.</p>
<p>Sounds like you have a good preventive plan in place so the likelihood of you suffering any issues is low. Ive never had one of mine go but like you I tend to grease and check mine frequently. I tend to use a bit of LMT grease which is high melting point and for car wheel bearings and never had an issue altho any grease will do. Its when they go dry, everyone ive done has always had a dry bearing thru lack of maintenance apart from the 2 string related ones.</p>
<p>Regards</p>
<p>Martin</p>
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Ive bought 8-10 carbs from hutzl and never had any issue with any of them.
