wisecobandit

I got a bg55 blower in at the mo Spud, giving me grief flooding etc, cleaned the carb twice, set the needle height and still it persist. Ordered a full carb diaphragm kit now. The only thing I haven't ventured into yet is pulling out the ally core plug thing in the carb (forgotten the proper name...) its an oval shape rather than the conventional round dome ones and haven't got one in my box of carb spares but will come in the full carb kit. Apparently Stihl in there wisdom decided to stick them in with an araldite substance that breaks up so im hoping its an issue under there. Bloody zama carbs once again.....

Did you try adjusting the L screw before setting the tickover screw? Unfortunatly it could mean you may have the start of an air leak somewhere like a bad intake boot or impulse line or even the fuel line itself. Assume the air filter is relatively clean? Could be a bit of crap in the carb even or the sparkplug. Is there any of them you can scrub off the list?

Yes it would take and pull a 24" bar but it would be on the limit of max bar length and you wouldn't want to go any longer without suffering a drop in performance. If you handle most of what you cut with an 18 or 20" bar I would try to stick in that region.

Yeah what Ray said. The suction of the sealer and seals hold the sump pan on fine. Fit it then install the 4 rag bolts to pull it all up. Don't over do it the sealant.

Stihl own zama, thereby they wouldnt have noone else to blame.. Bit like the Peugeot hdi engines when the diesel pumps broke up, they fitted the exact same unit that was doomed to fail as by the second time around the warranty had lapsed.

All stock has been taken off the shelves and returned to stihl Jon. The Pdi will not show up these sort of issues I wouldn't think. (remember this is only my assumption I maybe totally wrong) All the pdi is is to make sure its all ok and in running order. They literally start the saw blip it a few times and that's all they do with regards to run time. A saw wont really suffer any lean issues til you get it in the wood working hard or for long intervals of use etc. No luckily I was indecisive hence my thread last month or whenever when I was a little lenient in buying the 661 due to its newness and then the fact it went up by £50 in the first week or so it hit the shelves.. Boy im glad I did!! Bought the tried and tested 395, I would rather have 2 mixture screws to adjust then rely on hitech technology, so much easier/cheaper to fix and adjust.

Just bumping a week old thread. Went into my dealer/distributer today and treated myself to a new 395xp for xmas... Whilst there I asked about the 661 issues and they remained tight lipped and said stihl hadn't divulged the problem. However when I was in the workshop talking to them whilst they pdi'd my new saw it was let slip they had already had 6 661's returned with the issue. There was no clue as such apart from the word software, but im getting an inkling its issues with saws running lean will be my stab in the dark,

I must admit Barrie I do the same and just look at "todays post" First ive heard anything about a Christmas raffle also. I would imagine lots of the regulars do similar and several will have missed it.

97mtrs

Keep it! Depends what you bought it for I guess but I love them.

Low screw will only need to be 3/4 of a turn out. High will be around 1 turn out. When you order a carb it just double check which carb you have. Chances are it will be a tillotson but some later ones had the walbro fitted.

Cat in the exhaust? Never heard of one on a 170. The likelihood is it would have "kat" on the exhaust if it did? Its certainly running rich if its spitting flames. Most 170's don't have the tuneable carbs tho either to dial them in 100% so have a tendency to run on the rich side. Not sure how aspen runs compared to normal fuel ie the same of if it runs richer but im sure Barry or Spud will prob know. I assume the air filters pretty clean and not dirty which would make it run richer?

Been and had 2 ms260's this weekend First one had a split intake boot and fuel line in the tank was u/s to the point it had literally fallen apart and the filter and about 2" of pipe was sat in the bottom of the tank! Second had seized and had ally transfer all around the piston not in any 1 spot. Every hole in the starter assembly cover was choked up solid! All cleaned up, new piston, ported the cylinder and a nice healthy 180 psi. Didn't want to start through overfuelling tho and ended up being the stupid choke system in the airfilter not opening due to the spring missing so it was just choking itself silly. Next a ms210-250 conversion, literally throw the 210 engine away and build up a 250 engine (I love these saws much to everyones dismay) Job done and cuts a treat on a 14" bar with full chisel 3/8 picco chain. Stihl 075 high tickover that wouldn't drop low enough (needs to be 2000rpm) It would get to 2700rpm and just die. Turned out to be a linkage issue, may sound silly but boy did I waste time looking for deeper reasons than the obvious... Last but not least a stihl hs75 hedgetrimmer. Runs crap, sometimes will accelerate as it should then it will just lose power. Tried a quick carb clean and twiddle, no change, so new carb kit despite the originals not looking bad, pulled the exhaust and checked its not blocked still not right. Fuel bulbs not leaking air etc so ordered a new in tank fuel line to see if that does the trick...

Its been removed now..

When the flywheel was off was there a generator winding being behind it? Early ones had it later ones didn't. Early flywheel should be 1122 400 1207 Later flywheel should be 1122 400 1203

Yeah ive bought a few of them

Hmm if the 440 is the oval shape filter I believe ive got a new filter box cover somewhere kicking around I bought in error. The 230 I had similarly damage to that was thru clutch drum bearing failure and heated/melted that area.

If its a similar set up ignition wise to the 084.. The early ones the flywheel needs to use keyway "p" and later ones use keyway "b" It depends on the coil. "p" the coil p/n ends 1306 "b" the coil p/n ends 1308 You may find a p/n on the coil. The reason for the later set up was just to gain a further 250rpm and also change timing to make them easier to pull and also prolong a spark momentarily longer. Whether it is the same on the 064 I don't know but worth a look. As spud says there maybe a fuel problem which is a possibility but also theoretically if the timings wrong the spark could be being put out by excess fuel and a down to timing.

Eddy what do you mean by the starter rings? Do you mean the cup the bolts to the flywheel? I've never tried aspen but I would imagine it wouldn't be much of a problem on these age saws. Like older cats they aren't fussy what they swallow like the newer stuff. The only thing would be to change the diaphragms for new I believe gardenkit advises.

Going on an 084 it will probably only get used once a month Rob lol. I will grease it every use then. I don't tend to grease the noses on my shorter bars often so maybe a regime is needed. Bit odd really as I clean the saws after every use but slack when it comes to greasing the noses.

Always fancied a sugihara bar and whilst looking through Robs site my finger slipped and bought myself one (honest Mrs.Wiseco...) Was a bit of a toss up between a stihl and the sugi (36") but as ive got a couple of new chains that fit the sugi but not the stihl the decision was made.(sugi 104 links stihl 108 links) Plus the sugi looks much nicer.... I know they are meant to last well but anyone got any words of wisdom be it good or bad in relation to these bars and there upkeep?

Yup me to. I just love the health and safety aspect of it

210, 230 and 250 share the same crank but the rod on the 210 is 6mm shorter. 210 short crank 40mm bore 230 long crank 40mm bore 250 long crank 42.5mm bore Thats one range of saws I am clued up on and actually like working on much to everyone elses disgust lol

You sure the 210 is the same Eddy? Not saying your wrong but I didn't think they where. IIRC the 170/180 is the same engine apart from bore size, Also I believe the rod on the 170 and 180 is flat steel whereas the rod on a 210 is an "I" beam shape and cast.