wisecobandit

Im saying nowt about the coloured geezer who just goes in and grabs the saw and nearly runs off without checking hes ok lol...... (the saws prob on ebay now..)

Always thought anything relating to safety boots was VAT free - im sure it used to be? I assume they say VAT for business users as they will be vat registered and claim it back.

The 357 is a good sought after saw, being an xp commands a higher price tag secondhand tho. They are a trifle heavy in my eyes but not excessive. Suffered a few carb issues with the earlier walbro carbs but changed mid flow over to the zama carb which some people feel is a set back. Certainly a saw to consider and shouldn't devalue in any big way.

Clutch Assembly for Husqvarna 357XP 359 Chainsaws | Husqvarna 357XP/359 Chainsaw Spares In stock. Normally next day delivery if you order in the morning.

That sucks mate. You can get a new valve for your other tester through snap on tho. I need to order 1 for mine as I blew it on a 260 im playing with at the mo. Seems we all go thru spates at similar times when it comes to blowing valves on testers.

Fitted the spare muffler I modded the weekend to the new 395 today. Will get around to porting it soon but got a 385xp to totally strip and rebuild when it turns up (new crank, bearing and seals etc so prob port that whilst its stripped down and get that sorted first. As it comes out the factory.. Twin exit boy racer exhaust..

Most bits are still available through stihl for the 076.

They don't list it in the 435 user manual Rich. Prob cos of the daft screws its uses. Take it its a zama EL carb? Something tells me its 1 turn out on each tho, certainly no more and no less than 3/4 of a turn out.

The plastic spurdrive isn't in the pic Eddy just the fork that attaches to it. It will have melted into a molten lump of char so the seller has left it out the pic as it will be totally unusable. My bets on with the spurdrive that's been ordered and a new bearing that saw will be back running

The clutch plastic cage bearing goes and takes out the oil drive. Its only a plastic cog and the drum goes against it and melts it. Im assuming that's why just the fork is in the pic (but not the plastic spurdrive) as it should be attached to the plastic spur drive by 2 screws. Once that's replaced and a new bearing that's all that tends to go. Remember to clean out the plastic residue on the inside of the clutch drum, you will prob find a smeared plastic coating in there with some fine wet and dry or emery else the bearing wont fit in properly and be tight and the same thing will prob happen again. People go to stihl and realise they cant get the bits new and don't bother hunting or sourcing spares hard as these sort of things are a bit of a struggle to get hold of. If you ordered that bit off ebay it will take about 2 weeks, in the meantime order the new bearing and give the saw a clean up and then when it turns up its a 5 minute job to put it back together. If you need an ipl to double check how it goes back togethger send me your email addy.

There you go. Stihl 084 084AV Chainsaw Oil Tank Drive Gear Good Used Part | eBay Second hand part tho

1124 640 7500 is the part number of the plastic spur wheel and fork on the early version you have. The newer has a piece of wire that drives locates in the drum instead of the fork.

Yup as Rich says replace your clutch springs. Oh Colwoodlandcare... That 084 is the earlier model oil pump drive. When I was searching I did wander if it was possible to fit the later version drive. Theres a possibility they may interchange as the plastic cog that remains in the saw is the same part number as the later version which may or may not still be available.

The 90 and 051 isn't the same body. The 070 and 090 are the same and so is the 051 075 and 076 albeit a few minor differences.

I had one in exactly the same a few months back. Hardest bit for you will be trying to obtain the oil drive part/cog. Stihl no longer sells or list them. I managed to get a new one off the chainsaw guy in Canada which was the assembley also with the metal fork for about £30 new old stock. Cause I believe is down to the bearing collapsing. Yet again its a plastic cage bearing. You will prob find burnt plastic smeared inside the drum where the bearing goes.

Part of my day consisted doing muffler mods.. an 025 an 026 a 372 and a 395! Placed a husqy order with my main dealer for various parts including some very anal replacement decals as got a few missing/scraped off. Stripped and rebuilt an ms210 which had a disintegrating big end bearing. Never seen it happen in one of these before, its normally the main bearings that fail.

You forgot to mention the latex gloves

Being a 171 I would expect lower compression. Out the factory new they only tend to be around 120-125 psi if I remember correctly which doesn't leave a great deal of tolerance. I would fire it up and with it running just twiddle the low screw a tadge one way and the other to see if it improves your problem. Factory settings tend to be a bit rich for safety reasons. If you find it improves it by altering it slightly find the best point. You may have to reset the idle slightly afterwards. If the H is set as per factory setting and the higher side of the power is fine then leave as it is. A rich saw is much better to have than a lean one.

The only difference is the exhaust. No point in importing a saw when the only thing different is a muffler with a bigger exit. This has been confirmed by Husqvarna themselves. I ended up buying a new 395xp and already bought a replacement exhaust to play with and modify and trying to source a full wrap handle but not willing to pay the £130 main dealer price!. As yet its still unused and untouched! Im thinking it may stay that way until I get bored and get a quiet day and strip it down and port it

You mean to say it was the box and not the coupling? Blimey that's a first its nearly always the coupling. Think there must be as many 2wd versions as 4wd driving around now

Like you say Stubby why spend an extra £120 for a 372 when in 30mins u can turn a 365 into one. Even if you bought the 372 transfer covers it would still be cheaper than a 372. As said its a marketing gimmick whereby people buy labels. If its got xp on it it must be worth the extra and people will pay it.

The 44mm ones tend to measure 39. something mm. MS 260 chainsaws made before serial number 2 62 187 362 are 44mm after that 44.7mm Rich. Save that serial number in your little black book of knowledge. There aren't to many 44mm ms260's just a few of the very earliest ones. Ive had 3 in the last month or so semi seized. Most always they seem to trap and pinch the rings on the ones I see.

You can buy the inlet manifold from stihl they aren't to pricey. Studs price isn't cheap tho if I remember correctly. You can get aftermarket exhausts. Look on ebay.com rather than ebay.co.uk

Figures match up with Husqvarna by the looks of it by what the advert says... HOWEVER.. It is listed as having the zama carb not a walbro which was what where only on the pre 2003 saws. Personally as said I would pay a few quid more and not just get a genuine saw but you will get warrantee etc to. For the extra £30 I would avoid all the hassle of not knowing what you buying over the net and be messed around.