wisecobandit
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Everything posted by wisecobandit
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think you will struggle with the chainbrake cover. The other 2 are readily available tho.
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I run a 18" on my 357 just because I had a spare 18" bar and chain at the time rather than buy a new 15" It is ported and muffler modded but it pulls it no problem to the point I never worried about getting a 15. Like spud says I think 20" would be the max you would be "happy" with on a ported 357.
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You will prob get away with a new piston and rings and save the cylinder. Ive done numerous 026/ms260's and they just tend to smear/and pinch the piston ring trapping it with barely any transfer normally. I wouldn't order it til you've got it apart and know te cylinders u/s.
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Good quality, good port timing etc. Certainly worth it if your oe cylinder isn't salvageable.
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Chisel will cut faster but blunt quicker. Better for chopping clean wood. Semi chisel cuts slower but retains an edge better so better for dirty wood.
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Lol that mans made a fortune out of me I would say either 288,394 and add also the 385, the early versions of the 395 and 390 and make great stumping saws.
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Primer bulb leaking or faulty 1 way valve in primer bulb? Blocked tank filter or hole in fuel line? It can only be one of those 3 I would think if fuels not making it to the carb if it has a primer.
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Haha Barry, I know where your coming from. At times I used to work on the "hide and skin" and animal incineration lorries. That smell impregnates everywhere even just working on the the electrical wiring! You could use a tub of swarfega and still smell it on your hands.. That smell just seems to loom and linger even after the lorrys had long gone.
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Matty, I find stones choke up real quick on ally, a drop of oil or washing up liquid on the stone is meant to help. I use carbide burrs and then the carbide/emery/sanding drum things. NEW Dremel Sander Bands Coarse (6) 408 | eBay
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Come to the conclusion I may have to many saws and need to get some space back. Some saws I just rarely use due to having to many to choose from. Saw 1 Husqvarna 365 special. Its an 07/08 saw, with a hyway 75cc kit in it and dual muffler mod. Now to put the cat amongst the pigeons its cut up at most about 5 trees from new and 2 since the conversion. I think theres even a paper sticker still stuck on the bottom of the saw from when it was new. Saw 2 Now just your run of the mill condition saw, used but not abused but a not so common (around 03) 362xp special. The 362 uses the small mount bar for those who arent aware. This saw has the original cylinder/piston from saw 1 which is ported and dual exit muffler. Anyone want to take a stab at value to help me decide if they get stuck up in the loft or sold?
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What value to put on an old 076 av sthil chain saw
wisecobandit replied to w6cloggs's topic in Chainsaws
Err neither are an 076 I can tell you that much. Sure its not a contra/70? im sure someone who knows will be along shortly but I know 075/076's If its a 70 I will give you a tenner for it lol. -
You told me he didn't post it he was to tight? He was happier to use his free OAP bus pass and hand deliver it
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Oregon do the multicut chain version of lpx which has the "extra heavy duty chroming" if you fancy a full chainload of them
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80-90% of the exhaust port area. Bigger than that gain is minimal but noise does become a factor. That said some smaller saws can actually be louder than some larger saws. A single 1" pipe is ideal on the likes of 372xp's etc as its 85% of port size to give a rough idea.
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Yup full chisel. Certainly worth trying a chain or two. Quick search I found you a bit of gumph to read. They make it in 3/8 to 73 and 75 iirc so don't panic just cos the gumph is about .325 http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/chain/20lpx.pdf
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Me to. Got that set up on all my big huskys.
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Got to be a chain issue. If it cuts more violently and bites in. If the rakers are the correct height the only thing is possibly the angle of sharpening that I could imagine it to be.
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No the choke method shouldn't really hurt the saw. It just overloads it with fuel which at worst may foul the plug up a bit and need an extra pull to start it.
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Have a look in "whats on your bench" or "spuds tuning/modifying" thread in the chainsaw section. We all tend to have our own little ways of doing it. What saw have you got? Also do a search for "muffler mods"
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Oregon also make chains for Husqvarna and also own carlton. As said stihl chain most seem happier with as keeps its edge longer etc and most favour them. That said however the Oregon LPX is a chain that takes some beating in clean wood. Guess its the horses for courses - oregons a bit cheaper than stihl. I look to use stihl on the "better and clean" wood and long bars yet the shorter/smaller saws I tend to use Oregon lpx.
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Certainly worth unbolting the coil and cleaning up where it comes into contact and earths out on the saw. Wouldn't be the first Husqvarna ive seen with that fault.
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ITs normally 1 wire which goes from the coil (under the starter cover) to the kill switch. The kill switch will either be earthed to the body of the saw or via another wire to a grounding point. The wires can chaff and rub over time. Likewise the switch which on huskies normally pop out. Give it all a good clean. Inspect the wires and clean up the switch and contacts between the switch and saw body.
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http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/71620-076-second-hand-value.html
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Lakeyboy may still have his for sale. Message him or do a search for his threads.
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Ive done about 3 newish (2009-2010 ish) saws all with the same issue albeit the 210/230/250 range. As a matter of interest does the 180 have a sort of integral built in small end for want of better words? IE you cant swap the bearing as its part of the con rod/crank? The earlier ones never had this or any common issue with big end failure. Certainly on the 210-250 range the earlier crank with separate small end bearing is interchangeable with the revamped version.
