wisecobandit

Good quality, good port timing etc. Certainly worth it if your oe cylinder isn't salvageable.

Chisel will cut faster but blunt quicker. Better for chopping clean wood. Semi chisel cuts slower but retains an edge better so better for dirty wood.

Lol that mans made a fortune out of me I would say either 288,394 and add also the 385, the early versions of the 395 and 390 and make great stumping saws.

Primer bulb leaking or faulty 1 way valve in primer bulb? Blocked tank filter or hole in fuel line? It can only be one of those 3 I would think if fuels not making it to the carb if it has a primer.

Haha Barry, I know where your coming from. At times I used to work on the "hide and skin" and animal incineration lorries. That smell impregnates everywhere even just working on the the electrical wiring! You could use a tub of swarfega and still smell it on your hands.. That smell just seems to loom and linger even after the lorrys had long gone.

Matty, I find stones choke up real quick on ally, a drop of oil or washing up liquid on the stone is meant to help. I use carbide burrs and then the carbide/emery/sanding drum things. NEW Dremel Sander Bands Coarse (6) 408 | eBay

Come to the conclusion I may have to many saws and need to get some space back. Some saws I just rarely use due to having to many to choose from. Saw 1 Husqvarna 365 special. Its an 07/08 saw, with a hyway 75cc kit in it and dual muffler mod. Now to put the cat amongst the pigeons its cut up at most about 5 trees from new and 2 since the conversion. I think theres even a paper sticker still stuck on the bottom of the saw from when it was new. Saw 2 Now just your run of the mill condition saw, used but not abused but a not so common (around 03) 362xp special. The 362 uses the small mount bar for those who arent aware. This saw has the original cylinder/piston from saw 1 which is ported and dual exit muffler. Anyone want to take a stab at value to help me decide if they get stuck up in the loft or sold?

Err neither are an 076 I can tell you that much. Sure its not a contra/70? im sure someone who knows will be along shortly but I know 075/076's If its a 70 I will give you a tenner for it lol.

You told me he didn't post it he was to tight? He was happier to use his free OAP bus pass and hand deliver it

Oregon do the multicut chain version of lpx which has the "extra heavy duty chroming" if you fancy a full chainload of them

80-90% of the exhaust port area. Bigger than that gain is minimal but noise does become a factor. That said some smaller saws can actually be louder than some larger saws. A single 1" pipe is ideal on the likes of 372xp's etc as its 85% of port size to give a rough idea.

Yup full chisel. Certainly worth trying a chain or two. Quick search I found you a bit of gumph to read. They make it in 3/8 to 73 and 75 iirc so don't panic just cos the gumph is about .325 http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/chain/20lpx.pdf

Me to. Got that set up on all my big huskys.

Got to be a chain issue. If it cuts more violently and bites in. If the rakers are the correct height the only thing is possibly the angle of sharpening that I could imagine it to be.

No the choke method shouldn't really hurt the saw. It just overloads it with fuel which at worst may foul the plug up a bit and need an extra pull to start it.

Have a look in "whats on your bench" or "spuds tuning/modifying" thread in the chainsaw section. We all tend to have our own little ways of doing it. What saw have you got? Also do a search for "muffler mods"

Oregon also make chains for Husqvarna and also own carlton. As said stihl chain most seem happier with as keeps its edge longer etc and most favour them. That said however the Oregon LPX is a chain that takes some beating in clean wood. Guess its the horses for courses - oregons a bit cheaper than stihl. I look to use stihl on the "better and clean" wood and long bars yet the shorter/smaller saws I tend to use Oregon lpx.

Certainly worth unbolting the coil and cleaning up where it comes into contact and earths out on the saw. Wouldn't be the first Husqvarna ive seen with that fault.

ITs normally 1 wire which goes from the coil (under the starter cover) to the kill switch. The kill switch will either be earthed to the body of the saw or via another wire to a grounding point. The wires can chaff and rub over time. Likewise the switch which on huskies normally pop out. Give it all a good clean. Inspect the wires and clean up the switch and contacts between the switch and saw body.

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/71620-076-second-hand-value.html

Lakeyboy may still have his for sale. Message him or do a search for his threads.

Ive done about 3 newish (2009-2010 ish) saws all with the same issue albeit the 210/230/250 range. As a matter of interest does the 180 have a sort of integral built in small end for want of better words? IE you cant swap the bearing as its part of the con rod/crank? The earlier ones never had this or any common issue with big end failure. Certainly on the 210-250 range the earlier crank with separate small end bearing is interchangeable with the revamped version.

I got a brand new 395 sat here just waiting to be ported when I get the opputunity. Already done the muffler mod My other 395 is ported etc but just runs a 28" 3/8 set up. Ive got a 36" .404 on the 394 and pulls it absolutely faultlessly (stihl rsc chain) Rumour has is the 394 has a touquier motor but I can say either way on that one. Due to the CAD as soon as I get my hands on a saw for myself it goes straight on the workbench... The only unported saw as such a I own is a 346 xpg and that's got a m/m and 357 carb on it

Its is just the muffler which holds the 395xp back and is the only difference to the U.S spec Stubby. A muffler mod puts it straight up to 7.1+ hp. The 395 beats the 660 hands down milling so that's false info whoever seems to think the 660 is faster. Theres no comparison over a 28" bar the 395 is ahead without a doubt.

Page 20 of the 540xp manual FUEL HANDLING Fuel Note! The machine is equipped with a two-stroke engine and must always be run using a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke oil. It is important to accurately measure the amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%) for all engines. Gasoline, litre Two-stroke oil, litre 2% (1:50) 5 10 15 0,10 0,20 0,30 0,40 US fl. oz. 2 1/2 6 1/2 12 7/8 ! Gasoline WARNING! Always ensure there is adequate ventilation when handling fuel. 20 US gallon 1 2 1/2 5 Mixing • • Use good quality unleaded gasoline. The lowest recommended octane grade is 87 ((RON+MON)/2). If you run the engine on a lower octane grade than 87 so-called knocking can occur. This gives rise to a high engine temperature and increased bearing load, which can result in serious engine damage. When working with continuous high revs (e.g. limbing) a higher octane is recommended. • • Always mix the gasoline and oil in a clean container intended for fuel. Always start by filling half the amount of the gasoline to be used. Then add the entire amount of oil. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture. Add the remaining amount of gasoline. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture thoroughly before filling the machine's fuel tank. Do not mix more than one month's supply of fuel at a time. If the machine is not used for some time the fuel tank should be emptied and cleaned. We recommend the use of special oil (chain oil) with good adhesion characteristics. • Environment fuel HUSQVARNA recommends the use of alkylate fuel or environmental fuel for four-stroke engines blended with two-stroke oil as set out below. Ethanol fuel HUSQVARNA recommends commercial available fuel with maximum 10% ethanol content. Running-in Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods during the first 10 hours. • • • Two-stroke oil • For best results and performance use HUSQVARNA two-stroke engine oil, which is specially formulated for our air-cooled two stroke-engines. Never use two-stroke oil intended for water-cooled engines, sometimes referred to as outboard oil (rated TCW). Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines. Chain oil • • • • • • • 20 - English Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain. It is important to use oil of the right grade (suitable viscosity range) to suit the air temperature. In temperatures below 32°F (0°C) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components. Contact your service agent when choosing chain oil. So basically they don't give specs for what type of oil to use which is a bit scary, due to that it would be fairly hard to turn down a warranty claim.