wisecobandit

So when the drum/clutch where fitted did the 2 bind together during first fitting/are they now? Normally theres atleast a few mm gap between the clutch and sprocket.

People often say the 394 is stronger than the 395 yet both have similar power. The heavier crank gives more torque and it also has the advantage of non epa carb by not being emission friendly. However the 395 has the quad ported topend so claws some back. The object of this saw is to get the best of both having the 395 cylinder fitted,

Nows the time to flip the saw and fit new rubber mounts. Next to the drive side of the sprocket and outboard clutch On with the clutch.. Only hand tight again. Now on with the new 395 meteor pot and inlet manifold. At this point I fit the partition wall and under carb box/tray and fit the carb after the pot is bolted down. Some people fit the entire inlet/carb system before slipping the piston in but I find this much easier as you have more room to play with. In this pic you can see the impulse tail ive added to the non epa 394 carb. Screw in the new compression release valve. Next the handle with new av springs gets fitted. Av spring for the handle gets fitted to the pot. Now a bit of starter cord thru the sparkplug hole to enable tightening up of both the flywheel and clutch. Next the new (genuine husky!) exhaust goes on with new bolts, gaskets and rubber buffer Next the new flywheel segment. This pic you will notice whats cheesed me off with the powder coaters. They sandblasted the i.d tag! grrr Fitted Ive made up a kill switch wire and fitted that.. Put on an old spare starter I had laying around for now. It will be replaced! Fitted a new kill switch and made up an earth wire. So that's where im to up to now. Need to stash a bit more cash away before the missus sees it to enable me to buy a few more bits....

I like hyway. Just make sure you use original clips on the end of the piston/gudgeon pin. Certainly not a right off and she will run again. Stick in a dark place until you get some money together.

Before we go any further this is a build of love. Certainly I will be out of pocket financially but hell I cant take it with me or more likely the missus will spend it... Firstly a quicky about the saw differences between the 394 and 395. The 395 is dual/quad ported whereas the 394 is single/dual ported. The 395 use a different inlet manifold system, using the most recent clamp/rubber inlet boot system with external impulse. The 394 uses the plastic manifold that screws on and has an internal impulse. Carbs are similar but are different! The 394 is non epa whereas the 395 is epa and also has a tail for the required impulse line. Both can be interchanged with minor work. The carb undertray is different between both saws but can be interchanged with some mild modification as the fuel line hole and throttle cable are about 3mm different. Also the 395 has rubber carb mountings and the 394 is solid. The crank is heavier on the 394 over the 395. The other difference is the 394 has a keyway for a woodruff key whereas the 395 has a slot and "inbuilt" key into its flywheel. Therefore you should use a matched crank/flywheel if you want a straight forward swap. Crankcases,fuel tanks,clutch,oil pump,drive gear etc are the same or interchangeable. So where do we start... So a set of old crankcases help... Talk nicely to a powder coater and flash cash and they end up like this... So we now know that the oil tank breather doesn't like the powder coating and melts. The new one just presses in and a tap with a soft hammer on an internal steel sleeve once its in the desired position just swells the plastic to lock it in position. So first things first cranks and bearings. I find it easy just to tap them on the crank using a hammer and socket method. Now time for the heat and warm there bearing area of the crankcase quite well for a minute or so with the blowlamp. The bearing and that end of the crank just pushes in with hardly any pressure. As it cools the crankcase will close up and tighten on the bearing. I normally spin it once in a while as it cools (else you can get some tension build up and find the bearing will be hard to spin until it gets destressed using a few taps with a hammer) Now time to fit the gasket. I normally hold it in place with the thinnest smear of gasket sealant, just enough to make it stick. Next repeat the heat with the opposite crankcase having the crankcase bolts handy. Once warm enough the crankcase goes on and screws put in and tightened up fairly smartish. Then hopefully it should resemble a bottom end.... Fit the oil pump feed tube and filter, just pushes in the hole! Next a simple job of just tapping in and locating the crank seals. I find that on the 394/395 the nitrile ones fit better than the metal cased seals for some reason (never had this issue on any other saw tho) The 394 crank has the woodruff key slot as you can see here. So crank together, seals in. Next the woodruff key gets fitted, flywheel on, washer then the nut gets screwed on handtight. Now half the 394/395 weak spark issues are caused by bad grounding of the ignition coil. I tend to clean up around the 2 mounting screws to help combat it. Not pretty but it works! Then fit the coil. I use the card of rizzlas as ive always got plenty of them around handy Then on with the new meteor piston.... Next spin the saw around and time for the new oil pump to be fitted. Also got a new bung to go in (doesn't really do sod all tho.. Next a washer goes on the crank Then the worm gear get fitted So the completed oil pump... Starting to look a bit like a saw now. That's enough for one post me thinks...

Im intrigued..

Take off the single wire that goes to the coil, and then pull it over and see what the spark is like then, if it improves theres an issue in the wiring back to the kill switch. If not your issue is likely to be the coil itself. I set the gap up with the card off a packet of rizzla papers.

You need to replace said bolts with the oversize bolts which are stihl part number 1123 664 2405 Just take your bolts out, DONT DRILL out the holes as the above p/n are oversize and self tapping and are made to screw straight into the knackered holes. 5 minute job to fix with the above bolts.

Give it a quick grease now and again is always good practice even tho its normally the stihl plastic cage bearings that give most trouble. 5 years + you may want to check the fuel line condition a bit more frequent where it exits thru the tank as that's where they are prone to cracking.

Saw chain H37 3/8" MINI Pitch 1,3 mm - Chainsaw accessories Both the h36 and h37 are listed as green label chain but for whatever reason the h37 is listed at a higher price.

Fake. Theres one listed at the mo on ebay exactly the same listed as an stihl ms250.

Even the older plastic bodied ms saws suffered the same problem. There is even an official stihl repair stud available to use if the its pulled/stripped the threads out of the body. I personally hate the 1 bar stud saws and even more so with the newer easy tension feature.

Me to... I did buy a stihl clutch spanner made for the bigger stihls but it remains unused. I use the hammer and punch method mainly as they are always in arms reach rather than having to hunt around to find where ive put "the special tool" for safe keeping....

Its definetly worth replacing the impulse line whilst your in there if you do need to replace it for the sake of £3 or so. No cylinder doesn't need to come off to replace the manifold. Its just held onto the cylinder by a "jubilee" type clip. Basically carb off, remove the 2 metal bits between the carb/manifold, undo the bolts that hold the handle/fuel tank on (theres a few under the white plastic circle/disc covers on the chainside btw) and push the manifold thru the handle casing. Drop the handle away and you can then undo the jubilee clip (and replace the impulse then) IT sounds more complicated than it is but only a 15 minute job. Takes longer to get the carb off! If you remove the carb and then take out the metal ring in the centre of the rubber manifold, you can stick your finger in the manifold and push it around and inspect for splits and cracks externally on the manifold. Either or means it needs replacing. You can normally

By rights it would have done. I shaked, rattled etc with the saw upside down in the hope it may fall out for 5 mins but being an oblong shape it wouldn't fall "end first" just on the big flat which wont come thru the sparkplug hole in that particular way. For the sake of undoing the 4 cylinder screws after a few minutes of the above I thought why am I wasting my time doing this... Spud/Barry do you use them much then? Maybe I just got a bad one. Im a bad boy normally and use a metal piston stop unless its a small saw in which case I use the string method. Worst one ive seen someone in there infinite wisdom decided if they wedged a screwdriver in thru the exhaust port over the top of the piston to do the clutch it would be fine so similar to yours Barry. Didn't really damage the port but the piston took a beating and was gouged and mildly pinched the ring in the groove..

The same as what they supplied with the 660... Guess who just broke the end off a brand new one inside the cylinder and wasn't quite enough clearance to fall out thru the exhaust port without loosening the 4 bolts to lift the cylinder enough to drop the piston crown level with the bottom of the exhaust port Luckily just replaced the cylinder so only cost me a few minutes. Wont be using one of them again...

So the long and short of it is what do you need/seek? The nice thing is with this range of saws it all interchanges pretty much. The piston is designed to go in easy on these saws btw. The chamfer compresses the rings as you put the piston in. Even new off the shelf they would only make around 135psi and the 21/210 even less having a shorter crank.

The "standard run" 024's had a 30mm stroke I believe and the super 024 and the 026 had a 32mm stroke. As you say spud I know both Stihl and Mahle made cylinders for the 024. Maybe if they done the same on the 026 that would aquate to the 4 cylinders you mention.

Sounds like the rubber inlet manifold has split/holed.

Shouldn't need to take the clutch off to put the piston back on the cylinder. Look like you have more than enough clearance to get the piston in the bottom of the barrel. Just put the piston to its highest point, line up the piston ring gap up with the little pin that's in the ring recess, oil the base of the bore with a smear of oil on your finger, squeeze ring together with one hand and slide the barrel on with the other, DONT FORCE it. If you struggle put a cable tie around the ring to compress it first and slide the piston into the cylinder that way using 2 hands. P.s the clutch is a backwards thread....

Not worked on one but clearly running to rich for some reason. Take it you've checked the mesh filter in the exhaust isn't blocking up? (if it has one)

Be good to here your opinion after a few tanks. How does price compare to the aspen? (maybe totally different here in the UK tho)

Think its meant to burn ok when it actually dries, it just takes a bloody long time to dry tho and almost starts to rot before that happens. Its not something ive a great supply of but ive seen some around the woods and they seem to grow so straight etc its a shame they haven't much use. Until they uproot/rot or come into a clearance area I cant/don't state claim but to be fair out of the 9 mature oaks and various beech and ash that have uprooted so far this year not ones been a turkey.

Is there any use for turkey oak apart from firewood which is all it appears useful for? The only use ive ever heard was it was supposedly used for gunstocks in the war at times when wood was in short supply. Guess quantity/price rather than quality was essential Seems a shame when they seem to grow as straight as a rule.

Lmao. Tether a dozen together it maybe worthwhile. They where towing vehicles Into the showground on the first day so it was never going to get better by the time they left.