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  1. That sounds ideal. I'd need a few over 500mm that i can easily cut myself - I have the technology, but not the wood
  2. Hi, I am landscaping my back garden and I am looking for around 60 metres of hardwood logs to retain the soil and create a border between a slightly raised flower bed and the lawn I intend to lay. I'd like to edge the lawn with short (200mm high) logs, burried at the same depth. I've done my calcs and I think I need 60m of timber. I want hardwood to ensure it lasts a while. Does anyone know where I can buy lengths of hardwood, uncut and around 100-200mm diameter? I live in the Bristol area. I can arrange transport.
  3. A friend has a good amount of hardwood logs, recently felled. Looks to be mainly beech and oak. Maybe a little bit of ash. I've taken around 2 tons already and there is much more left. Mostly short lengths - 2-3feet lumps. He is looking for a reasonable price and to shift it quickly. Early Saturday morning looks to be a good time for him. He has a digger to lift plenty of wood quickly and load a suitable truck ( we used my friends tipper for mine). Let me know if you are interested, roughly what you'd be prepared to pay and when/ how you can shift the wood. I can then pass on your details if it sounds like a nice, easy deal. No time wasters please! Reliable collectors only. Message me if you are interested!
  4. I'd be intersted to see if you'll get any feedback here... I am in a similar position. I'd love to own woodland and I'd really like to know more about managing this environment. I am excessively practical and hard working. Working in the fresh air in all weathers appeals to me - it's how I spend my spare time anyway! I took my Chainsaw Cross Cutting, Maintenance and Tree Felling (up to 380mm) course back in 2013. I've been involved in some voluntary work clearing trees to re-instate an old railway site near Bristol. I am comfortable and confident with a chainsaw, but I know and respect my limitations. I'd love more opportunities to practice dealing with mature woodland and have involvement with all aspects of woodland management. Ive offered my services as a volunteer in all capacities and to many organisations, but as soon as I mention anything to do with chainsaw work I hear the same thing - "Sorry, we have preferred contractors that we use". I get it. Safe, insured professionals would be who I'd choose, too, but I'd love to find someone who could use an extra pair of hands while at the same time trade some knowledge and experience. People like us are happy to work hard, get involved, listen, do what we are asked to do and work in a safe, measured way. There must be some opportunites out there without taking on full time employment?
  5. Hi, I'm looking for firewood in or around the Bristol area and I'm happy to work hard for it. I'm not looking for employment or payment. I have my CS30/31 and 32, full PPE, and good, reliable equipment. Looking to stock up my woodstore for next year! Cheers.
  6. Hi, I'm looking for free firewood in or around the Bristol area. Happy to work hard for it. I have my CS30/31 and 32, full PPE, and good, reliable equipment. Looking to stock up my woodstore for next year! Cheers.
  7. Hi, I am looking for opportunities to obtain firewood. I live in Bristol. I have a few reliable saws, LANTRA CS30/31 certs and appropriate PPE. So far I've been working for friends, helping to manage woodland and some voluntary tree felling work. My 'will work for wood' policy has helped fill my garage for this year. I currently work shiftwork, so I have days off here and there that I'd be happy to spend working outdoors, collecting wood. I'm not afraid of a bit of hard graft and I work safe. Looking for an opportunity!! Feel free to contact me if you can help. Cheers! Paul
  8. I'll definitely take a good look at that thread - was going to earlier, but the saw fired up. I got sidetracked by tea and ginger nuts. Spud mentioned the aluminium transfer. I was looking at the old cylinder I have. Wasn't quite sure what I was looking for. The inner surface was almost polished and glassy, which suggested to me that it could be used again, but there are two little rake lines about 10mm long, 4mm apart and about 6mm above the chamfer, so just inside the cylinder. I'm thinking if they are carefully cleaned up, they would be below the piston rings when the piston was fully retracted. But then I might be talking out of my arse. I have to say that my experience with after market products hasn't been great. I bought some stuff from Hutzl - the cylinder pan would not sit square in the crank case mounts, the clutch looked like it would fall apart if you sneezed on it, the back cover for the saw was the wrong type, the clutch drum ran wildly off centre, the crank case filler caps leaked and operated poorly. They have offered a refund.
  9. So, in nothing short of sheer desperation I tried to start it a few more times. It sounded like it was close to firing up. I wound in the LA screw on the carb had a turn at a time and each half turn gave a splutter that sounded more like it was going to go. Eventually it fired up. It doesn't a exactly purr like my MS362 but it feels like I've got somewhere. Here's the thing. I work as an electrical/mechanical engineer. I love making old dead stuff work again and I usually do well repairing things. I tried my hand at repairing saws. For me it's a black art. It's a load of ass and head scratching and swearing, but I'm learning and enjoying tinkering. What's obvious is how much I don't know. Thanks for help and suggestions. Just out of interest , are there any good quality after market spare part suppliers that people are happy to recommend or do most people go OEM every time?
  10. The stihl cylinder I have is scored. Didn't notice while I was cleaning it. Balls.
  11. Just tested again. 125-130 psi. After I tried to start it again as it's been left a while. As I pull on the starter it does sound like it's going to fire up , but it isn't quite getting there. At least I didn't lose my rag and throw it against a wall. I see this as a positive.
  12. By the power of magic !! Ha... My dumb ass. I was writing this on a nightshift. I get confused easily any time after bedtime. I bought a tester from Halfords for the last few saws I fixed up. I'll go check the compression again....and I'll be sure to put it in the right hole.
  13. Well, there's a lot if information for me already. Here's what I'm thinking. I replaced the cylinder with a cheap aftermarket piston and cylinder. The piston operation seemed to glide well in the cylinder when checked it. The compression was checked by replacing the spark plug with my tester...didn't make that clear. The impulse line is the original that looked to be in good condition. I have the original cylinder which looks good. The kit I bought with piston and cylinder and a load of extras was cheaper than a new stihl engine pan and piston. Now I know why. Probably best to get OEM piston , rings , pan and impulse line. Start again.


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