wisecobandit

I got a brand new 395 sat here just waiting to be ported when I get the opputunity. Already done the muffler mod My other 395 is ported etc but just runs a 28" 3/8 set up. Ive got a 36" .404 on the 394 and pulls it absolutely faultlessly (stihl rsc chain) Rumour has is the 394 has a touquier motor but I can say either way on that one. Due to the CAD as soon as I get my hands on a saw for myself it goes straight on the workbench... The only unported saw as such a I own is a 346 xpg and that's got a m/m and 357 carb on it

Its is just the muffler which holds the 395xp back and is the only difference to the U.S spec Stubby. A muffler mod puts it straight up to 7.1+ hp. The 395 beats the 660 hands down milling so that's false info whoever seems to think the 660 is faster. Theres no comparison over a 28" bar the 395 is ahead without a doubt.

Page 20 of the 540xp manual FUEL HANDLING Fuel Note! The machine is equipped with a two-stroke engine and must always be run using a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke oil. It is important to accurately measure the amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%) for all engines. Gasoline, litre Two-stroke oil, litre 2% (1:50) 5 10 15 0,10 0,20 0,30 0,40 US fl. oz. 2 1/2 6 1/2 12 7/8 ! Gasoline WARNING! Always ensure there is adequate ventilation when handling fuel. 20 US gallon 1 2 1/2 5 Mixing • • Use good quality unleaded gasoline. The lowest recommended octane grade is 87 ((RON+MON)/2). If you run the engine on a lower octane grade than 87 so-called knocking can occur. This gives rise to a high engine temperature and increased bearing load, which can result in serious engine damage. When working with continuous high revs (e.g. limbing) a higher octane is recommended. • • Always mix the gasoline and oil in a clean container intended for fuel. Always start by filling half the amount of the gasoline to be used. Then add the entire amount of oil. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture. Add the remaining amount of gasoline. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture thoroughly before filling the machine's fuel tank. Do not mix more than one month's supply of fuel at a time. If the machine is not used for some time the fuel tank should be emptied and cleaned. We recommend the use of special oil (chain oil) with good adhesion characteristics. • Environment fuel HUSQVARNA recommends the use of alkylate fuel or environmental fuel for four-stroke engines blended with two-stroke oil as set out below. Ethanol fuel HUSQVARNA recommends commercial available fuel with maximum 10% ethanol content. Running-in Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods during the first 10 hours. • • • Two-stroke oil • For best results and performance use HUSQVARNA two-stroke engine oil, which is specially formulated for our air-cooled two stroke-engines. Never use two-stroke oil intended for water-cooled engines, sometimes referred to as outboard oil (rated TCW). Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines. Chain oil • • • • • • • 20 - English Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain. It is important to use oil of the right grade (suitable viscosity range) to suit the air temperature. In temperatures below 32°F (0°C) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components. Contact your service agent when choosing chain oil. So basically they don't give specs for what type of oil to use which is a bit scary, due to that it would be fairly hard to turn down a warranty claim.

I believe using aspen husqy will even warranty. I take it you have a 540xp which is the model in question?

What where there reasons? I use stihl hp and never had a problem with it in any saw.

395 all the way for me.

wangluo18 user name. Comes via royal mail but needs a signature/recorded delivery. He does shindaiwa stuff sometimes but a bit hit and miss. I think something shaindaiwa will be whoever you can get it fromt the time tho.

IIRC the covers are about £25 each Matty so well worth investing in a dremel if you haven't got one.

Walnut is meant to be quite good to burn and low smoke and sparks. That is provided it is walnut tho.

Hmm Barry just a thought.. Maybe smearing some oil on the disc may help stop the blueing? Im not talking making it sodden wet or maybe a finger smear over each blade may take enough heat out to stop the blue so much? Should take some aggression out the disc and help coolness. Wander if a carbide type disc would get deep enough to the base of the blade as that shouldn't blue but maybe an issue with clearance? I only do a few a year so not really enough to compare results.

Hands up to never using a 261. I have heard good reviews tho upping to the .325 tho. I like the ms250 saws and think they are knocked down as "householder" saws by some but like yourself I rate them and more than happy to work on them etc which ppl don't like due to the cradle design. The ms250 came with both 3/8 lp and .325 options and I personally think the 3/8lp suits them best by far. The 261 tho has more power and capability of pulling a .325 set up tho, and bear in mind its predecessor the ms260 with .25hp less power ran .325 without complaint.

Glad im not the only one who gives it a quick accurate swipe with a grinder. Often thought about doing it with the handheld granberg (basically like a big dremel) but I cant see it being easier/quicker than a 4 1/2" Granberg do a fitting for there chain grinder for hedge cutters I believe but can imagine it being a right fiddle and ball ache.

I think you will struggle with that one. AFAIK stihl no longer make the 8t lp tho you may get one from the states etc. Have you tried the stihl picco full chisel chain? That may help you along the way, its good stuff. Or upgrade to the .325

Never a truer word spoken...

And them 4 mix things have nothing in the middle. You have to rev the nuts of them and they scream but low-mid range power is a waste of time. I have to say I do like the 2 stroke stihl strimmers/brush cutters but I wouldn't touch a 4 mix with anyone else money let alone my own.

Half the reason I started buying them, as you say a gasket kit can be as much as a new carb. All I can say is ive never had a bad one or one that's difficult to tune up. If you go for one with the full 3 screw set up then obviously you may have to fiddle a bit or drill an extra hole for adjustment purposes if the saw didn't have it originally. They tend to be available for the more common saws. I tend to use ebay and use a couple of sellers who have always been reliable and ive never had an issue with and usually end up having them in my hand in a week or so. What saw is it your thinking of a carb for?

As Dan says it sounds like a fuel issue and has suggested the main issues. A carb clean, new diaphragm kit and a new fuel line will hopefully get you back on the road. If its been stored with fuel in it over time the carb gums up, the diaphragms are affected and the fuel line can go soft and almost melt into a goo over time.

What Stubby said. Also between the carb and cylinder on the black partition wall theres a black impulse line/pipe (down low right hand side) so make sure you haven't blown/knocked it off or damaged it

Not knocking your ability Eddy so please don't take it the wrong way mate. We all seem to get runs of bad luck with something or another at some stage. Theres a fine line of tolerance on those grooves I would imagine and to the eye it would be hard to tell a bad one if the circlip fitted ok. As you say you can get a good Chinese piston but then ive heard a few ppl have had issues with meteors in 394's so you pay your money and take your chance. I actually like and use some of the Chinese copy carbs, never had an issue with one and on the more basic stuff which you would get just one or two screws for adjustment the copys give you all three so you can tune them much nicer.

Never used VEC. Ive always had hyway pistons from him and never had a problem altho I always use the original circlips. I also have an OCD/anal thing about once the circlips fitted rotating them around atleast twice to ensure they are located properly. Does it look like a poor machining fault on the piston/circlip locating area or the circlip itself?

Jeez ur not having much luck Eddy are you.

part number 501 86 18-01 supposedly according to hls Also used on 154, 261, 262, 455, and 460 chainsaws.

Any pic of the top of the piston? That's some pretty serious grooves caused and looks more like somethings got in the cylinder. Circlips where still in location etc I take it as that first pic shows grooves around the side of the piston around the circlip area.

Sounds like a melted crown on the piston? Oil it up well and keep your fingers crossed. Take it the carb/partion is off so you can make sure a ring end hasn't distorted enough and catching in the port?

Ooops. Thought it would've pinched the ring doing that with heat build up. Ive never had a u/s 357 cylinder and done quite a few seized 357's so you maybe lucky if you don't damage it getting off. Keep us updated. If it is knackered then tesgol does the nice closed port 59cc highway kit and if he hasn't got one let me know cos I have a new spare on the shelf.