wisecobandit
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Everything posted by wisecobandit
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Looking at the ipl it looks almost a case of just taking out 3 bolts and pulling the engine out. In theory its never going to be that simple tho as we all know. Just wasn't sure if there was any sneaky bolts that go up from the gearbox side or whether its all downward bolts so to speak..
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What are they like to change Barry? Ive just ordered new clutch springs for an hs75. The ipl makes it look quite a straight forward job but is it as simple as it looks is the question
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I think its just down to the seasoned oak, its about 4-5 years old/seasoned (and its the base of the tree) its just hard as nails so the cutters don't cut in as they would with fresh stuff, they glide over it rather than cut in fully. Full chisel is aggressive but if its not being allowed to cut into the wood in the first place it cant remove it. Wander if anyone who mills would know if changing the file angle down to 10 or 15 degrees which makes it cut more aggressive again would make a difference when it comes hardness?
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The 73lpx I use is full chisel chain. I wandered about the stihl rsc stuff spud aswell. Stihl chain last longer before needing sharpening over than the Oregon stuff as a rule due to the thicker chrome. I see stihl also does a ripping chain now aswell. Seems a bit of a no win situation I think, go to semi chisel and it will cut the fresh stuff slower, but need sharpening less. Im not a lover of using skip chains mot that ive got a great deal of experience with them. The full chisel doesn't seem to bite into the harder stuff well tho but perfect in the fresh stuff. Wandering if its worth playing with the depth setting altho I don't think it will make a great deal of difference.
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Im after some advice on getting a new chain. Basically for my ported husky 390 which gets used with a 24 or 28" 3/8 bar on 24+" stuff which can be fresh cut or seasoned timber, sometimes nearly stumping. Now the saw is quite strong and at the mo wears Oregon 73 chain which cuts the fresh stuff like butter but when it comes to the seasoned hard oak I wander if a different chain would do any better? The saw doesn't struggle to pull but the chain just doesn't cut the mustard so to speak. Im fully aware that seasoned oak is hard as nails and wont cut so well etc but as I need to order a new chain was wandering if theres a better choice available?
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I know that feeling to... As for your 066 project sods law you will get it finished and someone will make an offer on it you cant refuse and you will be back to square one again
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You mean crank The points have a bad habit of breaking off on the husky tool. They are reknowned for it. I could get one made up using a stainless bush/point, However i normally just put the flywheel nut/clutch on the crank and an old socket in reverse over the end of the shaft and never had a problem Spud.
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Lol Rich I know the feeling. If I can have a go at making things I do, it wasn't a hard challenge but im a tight arse and wasn't willing to pay a hundred quid for something you rarely use. Had this week off so if I was in the house and not doing much I would've been given a list of jobs by the better half...
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Well spotted that man. Its not an 026. As Ray says its prob an 025 and has a plastic body? In which case chances are it will be the plastic cage bearing in the drum that's collapsed as Rich said. Being a plastic cased saw it then eats into the casing and nearly always cut thru the oil gallery that feeds the chain oiler. That range of saws chances are the engine will be ok but the case will be knackered and need replacing and by the time you bought the other bits like oil drive pinion, bearing and clutch by the looks of it your looking at a right off given the age of the saw. Parts will prob cost around £80 then a few hours to swap it all over etc.
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First get that clutch centre off(remember its a reverse thread) and then i would get in there and peel all the plastic and crap off it and give it a clean up first so you can see better and what your dealing with. The crankcase is magnesium so should be ok its down to the main bearing really. The main seal, oiler clutch and drum etc are straight forward without having to split the crankcase. (ie they fit on the end of the crank without having to go deeper) If it needs the main bearing the crankcase will need to be split so a much bigger job.
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Bloody bargain mate! Cant moan at that in the slightest. Yeah that'll be a zama EL 42 I believe. I got a new one here I bought for mine then found a walbro 199. Ive got a new top end and carb sat waiting for a bargain blown saw.... they just don't crop up at the right price for me Took a seized one to £150 on ebay and still went for more! Some people are just nuts what they are willing to pay considering on top of that they may have to buy a new top end..
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Im pinching that wrap handle if it comes anywhere near me lol
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Look to me like the plastic oil drive has melted seeing as the pin that fits in the drum is there but no centre. That's about the only plastic/nylon thing in there that would melt apart from prob the main seal which will have been screwed to. Is there slack in the main bearing if you wiggle the crank? Maybe a bit of cord or somethings gone in there and caught up in the oiler drive but that's clutching at straws.
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It will work. Its exactly the same dimensions as the husqy splitter ;-)
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So started out with so me 6" square dural mild steel plate and some 1 x 1/2" box section... Not lucky enough to own a plasma cutter but a grinder and 6 1mm cutting disc do the job... So the hard bits now done... Assemble bits togeteher (bloody typical left out the bush the camera shot) Sods law the gas always goes on the last weld you need to do... So just swung some smoothrite on it hence the wet look and reflection... 1 Husqvarna crankcase splitter which cost £100 over the counter and covers 346 upwards saws. Granted they can normally be split without it but its so much easier with one and no swearing or burnt fingers from heating up bearings....
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No its exactly the same unlike the earlier models. Guess its saves them needing another parts shelf for a 365 apart from transfer covers and decals, and most likely run it down the same production line to save cost. Yet buy a 372 and you pay £130 extra
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Correct
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Yeah Spud the new x-torque motors are the same between the 365 and 372 there is no bore size difference and carbs/inlets are the same. They are both the same cc however the only difference in the entire saw is the 365 they have added some fins on the inside of the transfer cover plates to restrict flow a bit. That's the only difference.
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Ive done it to a couple saws and it makes a difference for less than an hour of modding. I also muffler modded them both to and you will definetly notice a fair difference. Scarily the 365/372 x-torq uses a larger venturi carb than the 390 btw!
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I Take it its a later saw with the zama carb then? The walbros seem more tuneable on the 357. Some ppl also say they cant get there saw to 4 stroke with the zama either.
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Dealers - Jonsered Dealer Locator - Find Local Jonsered Dealers I would ring one of there other uk dealers to see what they say?
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As said above the 2 named saws are prob the most ideal for your needs. You will certainly want something that size if your looking to cut from 20"-36" timber, any smaller you will tear the guts out of over time and find slow. Both saws have there following tho so hold good prices secondhand unless you buy a dog. The 365 has changed to the x-torq model as per NFG has. As he rightly states it can be changed into the 372 with an hour max of minor engine work grinding away a few fins on the transfer covers. The 365 special earlier versions (non x-torq) are the same bottom end but just use a 65cc top end instead of 72cc and is a direct swap or you could even go 75cc with a big bore kit. (ive got a tuned 375 which easily pulls a 28" bar in hardwood) Just to throw a spanner in your works as what to choose lol
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Why it's best to leave cutting down trees to the professionals!
wisecobandit replied to AA Teccie (Paul)'s topic in AA
Personally I would hazard a guess it was already cut to fall in a different direction but with the weight took it to lodge against the wall. -
They are prone to accelerator pump problems on the carbs on these. Most either block the the accelerator pump side of the carb off or use a carb from an 020t which didn't have the accelerator pump.
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Done a pressure test on the main seals? Assume you have tried it with the filler cap loose as sounds a bit like a fuel tank breather issue.
