wisecobandit

Saws are up in price at the moment so if your minds made up do it sooner rather than later. Being a proper 076 with chainbrake I wouldn't let it go under £325-350 then.

Just be carefull you don't kill the plug threads.. Amazing what some cylinders will survive with a bad piston. If you go careful you may be able to get a prybar or decent screwdriver thru the exhaust port to help lever the piston down provided you have some clear space above it. What chainsaw is it Eddy?

"sucks through teeth and shakes head" That's fit for the skip Barry.. Just put it back in the corner and I will collect it within 30 mins :lol: I just rebuilt a 394 which had part of "the 2 part" shoe totally broken out yet apparently "it still worked fine" despite the rattle of the broken bit still in there. If that had got wedged in the clutch it would have the same outlook as your 120

Depends, theres definetly a market for them but the price fluctuates dramatically. At the end of the day it could make £200 on ebay this week and £350 next week if 2 people want the same saw. I would definetly sit on it if you cant make the £250+ mark tho and its in good order and not a converted 051 (ie it has the extra oil plunger to add extra oiling to the bar) . Chainbrake models command a little more if your lucky enough to have 1 fitted?

Is that a Zama el42 carb Eddy? They aren't so good as the walbros on the 357. The zamas also wont 4 stroke most of the time however rich you set them for some reason. Most of the tuners "overseas" swap them out for walbros. Yup your right on the 385, if you can source the x torq 372 carb its about 2mm bigger.

If you get stuck in a big way with it then I will always look thru it for you but im in Devon so would have to post it etc. Think its just a process of elimination. Check the sparkplug first and see if its dry or very wet after pulling it over trying to start it. BTW the on/off switch simply just earths out the single wire. If it still works with the switch off then its not earthing properly either a faulty switch or the switch body isn't earthing well to the saw body so clean up under the nut with some emery or wet and dry.

My v6 shogun sport has lpg. Tank is where the spare wheel goes but holds 65ish ltrs. It is 1 of the better systems made by prinz. Makes sense to pay 72 pence a ltr compared to £1.28. Think mpg is about 2 miles less on lpg over petrol tho. Also mot time you never have to worry about passing emmisions as they are pretty much non existent on lpg. Power wise the only time I feel a difference is towing over about 2 tonne when it comes to hills etc but at the press of a button you just switch to petrol anyway if your that bothered. Never spent any money on the lpg system except a diaphragm which cost a tenner in the 4 years ive owned it.

Try sucking through the cap and see if you can draw air thru. Failing that the easy test is loosen the fuel cap and see if it dies, or wait til it dies, then loosen the cap and see if it restarts and runs ok.

The decomp would be sticking out to the right of the sparkplug. There will be a hole in the casing you will prob be able to look in and see a blanking plug fitted if you don't have a decomp. (btw for the sake of £20 for decomp it does make life much easier) I assume you have twiddled the carb screws slightly etc but to be fair 3/4 on low and 1 on high is normally the ball park. Double checked the new diaphragms and gaskets are all in the correct order? Impulse line and and fuel line connected the correct way around to the carb and good condition? Is the sparkplug wet or dry after you have been attempting to pull it over? Carefully pull/lever the white elbow the fuel line connects to and check the rubber fuel feed line in the tank isn't perished and has a good filter as these often get overlooked and are still available.

Sounds like you have answered your own question. Screwed in to tight and not being able to breath, as the fuel tank emptys the vacuum increases moreso causing it to cut out through lack of fuel.

Like any saw they can have there moments but generally not to bad. If they've not been started for some time or ive rebuilt one I do have a tendency to pour a teaspoon or so of fuel straight into the carb first tho rather than pull your guts out. Im assuming you have spark? Do the above trick and see if it momentarily fires up. (no choke required but trigger locked on part throttle) Also both make sure your chokes are on, to me the switch marking is arse about face and opposite to what it should be....

The brass screw is always loctited in well from new. Chances are if irs that tight it hasn't been tampered with. The ipl is the parts list which shows you the break down of the saw and part numbers. If you send me your email addy I will send you both the ipl and workshop manual for it to make your life a bit easier.

I could only imagine as you say its a needle valve issue. May pay to do a pop off test to check the needle valve is seating fully and not opening until 7+ psi pressure. The fuel tank caps also contain the breather containing a little ball bearing so make sure that's operating as they do seize up. If its been left for a week and pressure has built up I guess it could force open the needle valve etc and as these carbs sit above the cylinder gravity helps the situation on any slight leakeage. I did replace one carb once which was problematic but as a rule they are pretty good when it comes to cleaning and respond well. How did you clean the carb? Spray or ultra sonic? It hasn't had the governor blocked off has it as some react badly to that and can pour fuel in. The big brass srew on the side of the carb (straight bladed screwdriver) that's normally got red threadlock signs. unscrew it and make sure theres no small disc of anysort under the screw. I may have an old carb but may need a clean etc if it becomes a bugbear to you. You have an ipl to check gaskets are correct I take it?

Big jonno making a mess...

Makes a change. Im normally the one that's 15 minutes late and just missed out. Thanks again! altho its was running before the soaps even started

Scary thing Barry I done the comp test first and wasn't expecting anything close to 155? Certainly wasn't expecting to see a plastic bodied walbro tho. Never knew they existed! None of the walbro carb kits I had fitted. Cleaned it all out etc and primed it up with the bulb. Fired first time, released the trigger pin and started the next pull. Just need to work out a replacement air filter as the original was just flaking and fell to bits but couldn't get anything simpler to make or source something to fit. Almost feel guilty it was a cost free fix. I will be raiding your skip more often at this rate! Father come around just after I fired it up and was already hinting on it being a light machine and how he could "use that" in his garden...

That's a difference of 20cc's? So in husky terms 372-390? How much do you want to spend?

Nice find. They are great saws.

Got a pic? I put another carb on a 50 last year and quite possibly thrown the old carb in a box with about 20 others as I always hoard old carbs. If I know what im looking for I can look through it. EDIT Oops didn't read the post fully. Glad you've sorted it.

On my bench this avo was a freebie after visiting the kind hearted Barry (gardenkit) today - a non running efco strimmer. Had it running fine in 30 mins Barry, including being comp tested at 155psi to. Have to say tho a plastic bodied walbro carb?? Never seen that before. Carb was full of broken up foam air filter... Just need to sort a strimmer head now.

I actually don't mind the stihl clam shells and quite happily work on them. Built more than a few out of bitzas where they have been written off as uneconomical repairs. Granted its a bit more of a pain if topend work is needed but to be fair it doesn't take long. I use a battery drill with a t28 and you can strip them to the bare bones in around 30 mins. That said the line has to be drawn somewhere if your having to pay labour verses the value of the saw.

Always worth checking the thermostat hasn't gone t*ts up before you tear it down assuming it has one.

Great idea doing the charity thing with them Barry. I love a good tinker and something a bit different and having to use some thought over the bread and butter stuff. As you say it can be very uneconomic especially where labour cost are concerned as a business first having to break even then make profit to put bread on the table. I can imagine you see an awful lot of "teeth sucking in air" on quotes with people thinking it will cost them a fiver and you will do it whilst they wait...

I know its hard to explain but is it a metallic screech or more a windblown screech? Only reason I ask is 2 strokes will screech/sqeal if the cylinder base gasket develops a leak and also exhaust gaskets. Its unusual for bearings to screech its normally a rumble or graunchy sound. The other very slim chance is the crank seal itself leaking but that's highly unusual to hear it. As a last resort if/when you feel you've exhausted all avenues (ie leakdown test if poss) I would whip the crank seal out to inspect the bearing better before a full strip down for the sake of a seal. Normally its pretty obvious at that point if its the bearing or not.

So it squealed even without the clutch, drum and oil drive removed do in effect you where down to and looking at the crank seal? Was it squealing before fitting the new parts? Its not a very old saw to have knackered main bearings tho theres always a possability. If you pull it over via the starter with the engine off can you pinpoint the area better or is there no noise? (without all the clutch gubbings fitted)