Ilnumero
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Everything posted by Ilnumero
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cordwood (ˈkɔːdˌwʊd) n (Forestry) wood that has been cut into lengths of four feet so that it can be stacked in cords From Collins English Dictionary – Complete and Unabridged, 12th Edition 2014 I was taught that a cord of wood is 128 cubic feet, arrived at by inserting four posts in the ground in a 4' square pattern, 4' high. Timber is cut to 8' long and stacked between the posts until level with the top of the posts, thus a nominal 'cord' of wood. A usual measurement for coppice wood.
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You don't say how old the tractor is, but my Masseys are insured with Cherished Car Insurance 01252 713148.Very reasonable rates. Or, if you want full cover for ag use, then the NFU is the place to go. Even if you just cross a road from one field to another, you need to be insured for road risks, have the tractor registered and taxed. Your household insurance definately won't cover this.
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I have some slabs with the dimensions you're looking for, have been kiln dried and ready to go. PM me to have a chat about them.
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The oak looks fine to me. It's a bit short I know, but would be fine for posts, gates etc. I'm always looking for milling timber but the problem with arb waste is that it's too heavy for most firms to lift in one piece so it gets ringed up. I was offered a nice piece of beech the other day, over 1.2m dia, had a chat with the boss on the job, said 6' lengths, no problem. When I got there to collect them, they had been ringed up into 2' rings, so only good for firewood now. He said it was too heavy for his gear. Alas, I find this is often the case.
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There is a timber volume calculator here:- https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiX0LWpw4jRAhVrKsAKHZ2EAqsQFggjMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestry.gov.uk%2Fpdf%2Ftimbervolume.pdf%2F%24FILE%2Ftimbervolume.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEQ3hNhQ7q2eqJ4239qk6syHEjEiQ Sorry, can't seem to get this as a link, just copy and paste. You could use this to come up with a fairly accurate estimation of the tree volume, then multiply by 2.6 as mentioned earlier.
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I have a TS380 that I bought secondhand and have had for many years. I use it to cut slate. I always cut wet as it keeps the dust down, keeps the blade cool and washes the waste away as slurry so the diamond doesn't clog. I know it's a different composition but cutting slate wet seems to help the blade life enormously. It has two water jets on the blade guard and a connection to a garden hose, works a treat, so you may want to look out for this on a used machine. Any cutter with water cooling won't have been subjected to such a dusty atmosphere.
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Known as witches wood round here, and considered bad luck to burn. I know people who won't even have it in the house. Now, I'm not superstitious but I haven't brought any indoors and avoid including it in the firewood pile. Suppose that does make me superstitious after all....
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Why didn't you process your (unseasoned) firewood in the spring or summer, would have been perfect by now? Buy in a couple of cord in April and cut and split it over the summer and it will be seasoned enough to use now. I have stock for the 2017/18 winter and am already working on some for the year after that. You really need to get more organised, not be asking for wood in December.
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Best to dig a pit if at all possible. I operate a Danckaert 36" and we dug a pit about 6' square: it looked massive to start with but it's amazing how fast it fills with sawdust and how long it takes to clear it out. You might want to consider the working height of everything and your log loading method, the lower to the ground, the better.
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I will have what you're looking for, plenty of well-seasoned oak as well as lots of other species. Located in Sevenoaks too. PM me.
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Location, please.....
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Go secondhand, perhaps a Tyme Cub, usually several on ebay for anything from £50 to £150. A very popular machine that you wouldn't lose any money on when it's re-sold. I have a 'serious' lathe but also jump on my Tyme when doing small jobs. Also has a swivel head so a versatile machine.
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I often use parallel boards for fencing around my place. The type of 6 inch featheredge that my local timber merchant supplies is about 10mm thick at the thick end and sometimes down to a sliver at the thin end and is not terribly rhobust. I cut boards at 6" x 3/8" or sometimes 7/16 (11mm) so the thickness at the overlap is about 22mm which is quite acceptable. It's easy on the mill as I just use the normal linear scale and lower 1/2" each cut to give 3/8 (10mm) boards. Perfectly acceptable and far quicker than using any kind of tilting jig, imo.
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If you wanted some experience, you would be welcome to come and help me anytime. May be a bit out of your way though, located in Sevenoaks, not quite London. Bandmill, not alaskan.
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Don't go for the doubling-up method as it will create pockets of moisture, especially with a trailer, and start corroding. The first thing you will notice is the bulging in the steel where the rust is expanding and that will start to deform the steels. It may not sound a lot but it's always best to avoid laminating steel together if possible. There's a standard section of 120 x 60 x 5 that would be a good compromise and plenty strong enough, or a 160 x 80 that would be super- rigid, but might add too much weight. Or, if you really like welding, how about two unequal angles, 150 x 75 to make a box section? I assume you aren't having brakes so the trailer needs to be under 750kg.
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Ok, Ok, I'm a slow typist...
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An Australian version then.......
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I have one, had it for 30 years, very pleased with it. They were popular in schools and colleges years ago, when you were still actually allowed to make something using a sharp tool.
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I agree wholeheartedly with the housing, commonly known as 'hideous carbuncles'. I'm trying to redress the balance by rebuilding a traditional croft in Caithness with local stone and to be faithful to its original build methods.
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Not quite, try Dunnet Head.
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I haven't fitted the winch yet as the log-loading kit is for use away from the yard. I have a Hiab on site and always bring the timber back here to mill so haven't had the need to work away from the yard yet. The kit was well worth making as I will use it sometime. If you look on the Norwood site, or maybe youtube, you will find some videos of loading logs using this system.
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Sorry if all the pics are squashed up, but you get the idea of it all.
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The Woodland HM126 was my second choice, after a lot of deliberation. The flexing can be eliminated by mounting the whole thing on a frame of say 100x50x3 rectangular steel section. If you wanted it mobile, the trailer drawings Woodland supply also take most of the flex out. Either way, the mill will be far sturdier with some kind of frame to mount it on and make what is a lightly-built mill into something far superior. Also, if a choice is offered, buy the biggest engine available.
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I was always under the impression that the best way to avoid sticker-stain is to use the same wood that you have just milled. Edging the boards will give plenty of stickers, but even if you want waney-edge boards, there's always a bit of waste that can be milled up into one inch sticks. Also agree with standing the boards on end, after spoiling my first attempt at sycamore (the first job I did on the mill)
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I have made the Norwood log-loading system, exact copies so that it all looks right if I ever sell the mill. The ramps are 50x25x3 section with a section of channel welded at one end to hook over the rails and some feet at the ground end. The pillar is made from 60m and 50mm tube with the winch plate at the top. The whole kit cost less than £80 including the winch. A considerable saving on the manufacturer's item, 7 or 800 quid, if I remember, and a couple of nights in the workshop. Steel from F H Brundle or Parker Steel or any steel stockholder. Can send pictures if required.
