Ilnumero
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Everything posted by Ilnumero
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Looks fine to me.
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Just thought I'd share some pictures of a job from last week. The recent storm (Katie) brought down some beeches on a local estate and the timber was given to a chap to make a Veritas-style workbench for his workshop. The stem on the mill was 25" by 10' and my crane could only just lift it onto the trailer. The mill made light work of it, though. The cutting list included lots of 4x2 type sections, so once they were out of the way, the rest was planked up for future projects.
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I have just come from a sawmill in Scotland where they saw fencing from all types of 'pine' softwood and it goes straight from the mill into a huge tank of creosote. It soaks in there for a day and then onto a drip rack for a bit, then onto a pallet for sale. Now, I don't know what the penetration would be but they sell tons of the stuff, so the customers must be happy with it. Yes, creosote is nasty but one of the best treatments. I'm talking about proper coal tar creosote, still freely available to the trade, not the rubbish brown stuff from the DIY shop. I still dip my chestnut stakes in a tall bucket of creosote before ramming them in and I would say that they outlast anything with a '20-year' guarantee. So, it might work for you, especially with drying the timber before soaking in whatever you use.
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Wood splitter suitable for a Ford Dexta Tractor?
Ilnumero replied to ricki's topic in Firewood forum
I have an MF35, same hp as a Dexta and have an Oxdale splitter. This uses the tractor's hydraulics but they also have a version with a pto pump to provide hydraulic power. That would save having to do any work on your hydraulics. Now, many people would say that the Oxdale is a bit of a toy, but not in my experience. For £500 or so, you get a half-decent splitter that provides up to 10 ton force, depending on the tractor's capacity. I haven't had anything that it can't handle but obviously large rings need to be nibbled around the edges first, or use an existing crack to open up. I often have beech rings at 30" or so to split, and you soon get the knack of where to start. I have split with an axe for 30 years and now often say that the Oxdale is the best £500 I've ever spent. Can't beat it for value, in my opinion. -
John Deere L145. £2000 new. 48" deck, 20hp v-twin engine, can mulch, side discharge or (optional item) collect in a pair of bags, even got cruise control. I have had one for ten years and mows two acres a week, gives a superb finish and hasn't broken down. Easy to remove the deck, about 5 minutes, to sharpen blades. Just replaced the original ones last autumn. Gone through four vee belts in that time. The last time I fitted a £9 belt from ebay instead of the £50 JD one and it has lasted at least as long as the branded ones.
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That's a nice tree, pity it's going. Would love to come an get some timber but I'm just too tied up with other jobs at the moment. Will it be there for a few days or do you need to clear the site immediately?
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Tractors are designed to produce max power around 540 pto revs, something like 1700 engine rpm, and all implements are designed to work at 540 pto too, to benefit from the power delivered by the tractor. I'm surprised that a pto-driven implement is designed to operate at 400rpm, and haven't personally seen any implement with that rating before. That means that the tractor will not be running optimally, or fuel-efficiently.
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You say the tractor runs the machine at 420rpm, is that whilst at rest or under full load? Is the tractor capable of higher revs, or is that all it will manage? You should run it at 540 obviously, as all implements are designed to run at this speed, and it's a lot healthier for the tractor to run with a good load on it. I have several vintage tractors and they always feel more responsive and start better after a good day's hard work. It's not good to have them ticking over all day. They like a good workout.
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Located in Kent, can palletise if needed.
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Yes, I think so, certainly no earlier than last autumn. The wood wasn't mine, belonged to a customer but I happened to know exactly where it came from, just around the corner from me. A bit puzzling as the water/sawdust mix was only in contact with the wood for a moment. I have turned sycamore in the past, both green and seasoned and not seen this before.
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Definitely sounds like the seals in the ram, or maybe the piston cracked, letting the oil past. You are getting oil flow, rod not bent, can't be much else. Unless the return is somehow obstructed?
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It's lubed from the top so the water and wet sawdust is in contact with the underside of the board but its only there, at the end of the cut, for a couple of seconds, brushed off immediately, and it still leaves staining. Anyway, as I said, the customer was happy (the pics are from a practice board) so I'm not going to worry too much now. I also milled some oak, which should stain, and it was fine with no marking at all.
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Here is a picture of the problem; the board on the left is the top surface, not too bad, just a wee bit of marking. The right is the underside of the board as it comes off the mill, it is really stained from the sawdust. I don't know if this will plane out but it looks to be well into it.
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BTW, I do have a pto 3-phase generator for sale at the mo, 15kva, £400.
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The Woodland at £2600 has to have £540 vat added. Ok if you can reclaim it. I nearly bought a Woodland last month but went for a used Lumbermate 2000 instead, around the same price but so much more substantially built, and I'm really glad I did. with the Woodland, you could beef up the rails by making a steel frame to sit it on, same as the trailer they supply drawings for. That would stiffen the whole thing up. You could always start with a cheap mill and work your way up, if it's your intention to earn money from it. Start with a smaller budget and get the mill earning, then look to trade up.
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Will get some pics tomorrow.
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So today, I have milled some ash, cherry and oak, as well as some more sycamore. I turned the water right down so that the sawdust wasn't clumping so much. There was much less staining on the syc, and the other timbers were fine too. The main thing is that the customer was happy with it. I didn't mention the problem and they didn't either, so we're all happy. I will try the diesel, though, that sounds interesting. I am trying to collect the sawdust as I have a project for it, so there won't be any contamination issues.
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Hi agg, thanks for that. I have checked the blade and there's no contact between the wood and the body of the blade, just at the points of the teeth. I'm using a ripper blade and there's plenty of set on the teeth so good clearance. I am familiar with tannin staining but I would have thought that the blade wasn't in contact with the wood long enough to actually stain it. It seems to be where the sawdust is collecting that the stain occurs. I'm doing some more today and will try some other methods. I'm also going to try dry sawing some. Will report later.
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I have been milling some sycamore and keep getting staining on the boards. The top of the board is fine but the underside has clumps of sawdust sticking to the board. This sawdust is very light purple in colour and when I brush it off it leaves a stain on the board. I have tried brushing it off immediately the board comes off the cant but it is already marked. It seem that the water lubricant on the band may be causing this as the water is principally running on the top of the band, the bit in contact with the underside of the board being cut. I tried cutting without the water but the boards are still marked, although slightly less. I have plenty of set on the teeth so I don't think the body of the band is rubbing on the board. Any ideas as to the cause of this staining?
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Paint pad. Less dripping and holds a good charge. Just doing mine this week.
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Yes, sorry Big J, it's a Lumbermate 2000, a 1000 mile round trip, bought from up your way (my native land too) near Kilmarnock. Its got one 4' extension so can cut 17'. I have made exact copies of the trailer package, levelling feet, log loading kit and quick log dogs. I'm an engineer so easy enough to fabricate these items. The first job is to make its own shed but the ground is so sodden here I can't get anywhere near where its going. Last week I ended up with the Shogun and trailer stuck in the mud, tried pulling them out with a 35, then a DB990, all coupled together, finally got them all out with a tow from a DB 1210 on a bit of firmer ground. Took two hours, caked in mud.
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Yaay, finally bought a bandsaw mill after selling some of my current hobby and lots of saving up. Looking forward to making some sawdust.
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Have a look at the thousands of videos on youtube, they are invaluable for showing techniques and methods. Very informative and can be better seeing how its done rather than reading about it. Good luck.
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Here's mine. Its 7x16x8 feet deep. Takes about 8 tonnes, one side filling up while the other side is being used up. Rarely get both sides filled at the same time. It was very cheap to make, four posts and some featheredge for the sides. The back is Cambridge walling (vertical slats). I'm going to put some doors on it one day just to keep the wind-driven rain off. Or there's the small but very expensive one for sale at a local garden centre, about £179.
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Always cut and split green; I do mine as soon as they are brought home. I try to get them all done by the end of March so they have the warm summer winds to dry them. They are stacken in a south-facing open shed with cambridge walling to give plenty of airflow. The strong sun in the summer also helps to cook them dry, ready for the winter. The shed is split into two halves so that anything that goes in after March will not be used until the next year, so one half is being filled and one half being used up.
