se7enthdevil

never been called sreve before:lol:

i've bought a fair bit of fresh sawn wood from £10 up to £25 per cubic foot and depending on amount. anyone will know that walnut will command a higher price so i think willsmills has stated a good price there at £30ft3

it's got to be more than that stu, ii think it's hit double figures with this one.

lime has been used for thousands of years as the best carving wood (check out grinling gibbons) but if it meant for exterior use it won't last 5 years unless drenched in a preservative

it's wood, it burns. it may spit on an open fire though? it is as you say a fairly rare tree and i would be interested in some of the timber. what size was the tree and what size is it currently cut into?

my understanding of it is that the relationship is symbiotic so in theory it won't cause more browning once sap has stopped moving??? is there no visible timber james? can you not assess the look of the timber from a cut branch? you should be able to see the timber colour by cutting in just past the sapwood in an out of the way area. if it is brown oak it would be fantastic for turning blanks.

how long are those three??? if they are 6' or over i'd be interested in one for an attempt at a longbow.

i believe that the pictures are taken right after it rains to give the colours more vibrants...

i can cut that from what i have left. i've four half logs that have been drying for about a year or more that were originally 12-14" diameter. what length are you after?

the bark may be stunning but the wood is as plain as any normal eucalyptus. Deglupta | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)

i'm happy to do some turning from it if you like. i'll turn you some bowls if i can have a few for myself? milling it sounds like a chain will meet some iron...

what exactly do you need ian? are you just after bundles of veneer or anything specific?

out, get out...

i never said i'd make one... besides i do not possess any sort of tool to do the undercut.

how can you make the undercut with a drill press? woodturners will have been most likely to have done this first anyway, well before an engineer with a lathe did it. don't forget that turning is about 5000 years old

once milled it should be ok in thinner section so 2" max really. my problems have come from turning it where i have roughed out bowls and hoped that it dried ok. i was turning half logs of 12" diameter and in this sort of size it can shrink quite badly and even with endgrain protection it was split land for the plum... mine had a distinct difference between the heart and sap with regards to shrinkage rates and as mine had a wide sap of 3" it was the reason for most of the splitting. if you have a thin sap then you should have less of a problem.

mill it at the full 4m length as this will give more uses for the final article. one that size should be possibly milled by bandsaw as chains are going to waste alot of potentially good walnut. get any branches to a woodturner.

i've had some but not turned it. very yellow isn't it. berberis is also yellow but loses it's colour over time. smokebush is fairly yellow too but is usually full of other colours as well.

they are not always that great, it depends on the tree. i have a 12"-15" one from down my road and it was mostly sap, only about 5-6" of colourful heart in the middle and sadly it splits to hell despite my best efforts to keep it whole. being rough turned and well sealed didn't do the trick. i had at least a 50% rate of loss.

Omni LARGE Dust Cyclone workshop pre filter separation wood dust powder plastic currently out of stock but i'm sure more will be in soon. don't be tempted by a little one or put off by the price of the big one, this has been the best £150 i spent. the oil was some sort of experiment with finishes if i remember rightly, it's veg oil i think.

the yellow wood is usually pau amarello, euxylophora paraensis (americans just call it yellowheart) and is probably the most richly coloured but you can get a few other yellow looking woods if you look. here are just some that can be a nice yellow colour. Yellowheart | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Lemonwood | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Avodire | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Movingui | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Obeche | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Canarywood | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Osage Orange | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Argentine Osage Orange | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Garapa | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) West Indian Satinwood | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Jelutong | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Lati | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) Mulberry | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)

you mean like this... .

yes james it is an excellent choice. you don't have to go all exotic to get good rot resistant timbers. home grown ones can include robinia, oak, sweet chestnut, larch, any of the three cedar (cedrus) species, western red cedar, leylandii and im sure that there are others.

if it's coming out then don't chuck the timber. it can have a very colourful heartwood and woodturners will have an interest if it does.

all different woods mate. western red, Western Red Cedar | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Softwoods) sequoia, Redwood | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Softwoods) cedar, Cedar of Lebanon | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Softwoods) there are loads of other timbers that do the job too. these are on ebay and could be of use. 12 lengths of imported western red cedar | eBay here is a chart that may help you. .