se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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i know he was old but he was one of my favorite characters in porridge. rest in peace Grouty...
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any chance it could be a species of nothofagus???
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could one method be to trim a few small branches up the tree to see if they are showing any signs of brown colouration? i'm guessing that if it's found it's way up that far it will have spread fairly well throughout the rest of the stem???
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he is right to a certain degree mark, i admit that i don't know much about the subject but whilst researching yew timber i came accross alot of info saying that we used plenty of spanish imported yew once the stocks we had was in short supply. we also used some pacific yew from traders that went to the west coast of america about 400 years ago.
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a nice wide log like that should be of better quality than lesser diameter logs. i know i'm biased but i think it should be milled.
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Brown oak burr value as blanks
se7enthdevil replied to Root and branch sw's topic in Woodcraft Forum
if you cut it into blanks you must seal the ends of the timber as you cut, i found the shrinkage quite extreme on the brown oak i've had which resulted in bad splits. keep it out of the wind as you want it to dry nice and slowly. once dry good quality brown oak should be about 80-90 quid for top notch stuff so work out your price by volume. if you intend to sell as green then £20ft3 is the most you can charge in my opinion as the buyer has to season it with a huge risk of splits. -
i've just bought a pair of work trousers from a place that i think are the only retailer in the uk. the links are on the thread i started looking for trousers that don't tear out too quick. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/103872-where-do-you-get-your-trousers.html
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was that the one that had been fully refurbished??? good to see it getting used if it is...
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that's true of the best ones as we ran out of good quality yew on the british isles fairly quickly. other species were also used and ones have been found made from elm, ash, mulberry, blackthorn, oak and field maple.
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i've always wanted to give it a go...
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farewell mr sachs, yet another celebrity taken by 2016.
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pm sent
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i'll measure up what i have.
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surely if the human population in the area did not divert the local water supply for it's own use there would be no problem??? the current growth of giant sequoias have survived thousands of years and i'm sure that there have been worse droughts than the current one, even with mans intervention. the species is still here after millions of years so i doubt this is the end.
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mill. it's a perfectly good joinery timber.
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size needed would help. i have a large lump that came out of a house that is 5 1/2"-6" thick and about 10-11" deep and at least 66" long. only problem is that it has some large drill holes through the timber where they tried drilling the fixings out to get it off the wall. bone dry for 30+ years...
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leave it in the house to dry out for about a year so there is no movement once the glass is on there or it could crack it. weigh it now and write it on it so you have a comparison in a year's time to see how much moisture has been lost. once dry flatten the back and rebate like stu said or get a bit of ply to surround the mirror and screw that to the wood.
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i realise they are bigger machines but there are a few that must be not quite as big as some of the whoppers out there. it should also give you scope to do larger jobs?
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if you are getting a bit of kit like that can you not stretch to a second hand wide belt sander???
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can do mate but can you tell me the diameter of the trunk?
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as long as it's fairly flat to begin with or you have achieved the level of flatness you require then hit it with a 4" wide belt sander 100grit and after get a palm sander and go to the finer grits.
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if it does get removed i'd be interested in the wood for turning, it's a great turning timber...
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the bark cross section looks strikingly like some field maple i have... is it ring porous or nice and smooth???
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well the bark looks rough enough to be elm but i do not recognise the timber as elm being such a pale colour. i'm not saying it isn't elm but i've never seen it that cream in colour. any chance of a close up of the wood itself and if possible the endgrain. if i can see the grain close up the i should be able to tell what it is. is it heavy?
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agreed, more photos (better images too) are needed to identify it. i would not think elm if the name was not suggested... do zelkovas or nettle trees look like this?
