Mark_Skyland

Ah right, I didnt think someone could be so negative without understanding what it was about:laugh1: Seriously, apologise if you did understand, its just from your posts it looks like you think its a pointless exercise. These machines do get recovered every day, tracing the owners is a difficult task. I have a list of over 40 machines from hedge cutters to lawn mowers to nail guns to whizzers, only 4 have had the serial number removed. Now if everyone of those owners had signed up to arbsafe a huge percentage of the machines would have been traced back to the owners. A bit of a no brainer really. Just because registering has no real benefit at that moment in time doesnt make it not worthwhile. Besides, if you are insured and they get stolen the insurance company will probably want to know the serial numbers, when and where it was purchased from(ours did). How easy would it be to login into arbsafe and find all that info! Steve will have spent a vast amount of money and time to basically benefit you. Why not take 5 minutes to reap those benefits and help Steve along the way.

Johny, I think you've completely missed the point of arbsafe.

Just giving this a quick bump for those that missed it. Not only might you get your machines back you can help put the thieving scum away. If the police can't prove something is stolen then they get away with it.

Definitely needs looking at then As Billpierce says the clutch will tighten itself up, I never both to tighten them. BUT....Make sure you put the bar and chain back on, start the saw up with the chain brake on and give it a few revs, then disengage chain brake rev it up and slap the chain brake on to tighten the clutch up. Start it up with the sprocket cover off and watch how fast a clutch can whizz across the floor. There isnt much worse than a top handle that wont idle!

I have been contacted by Newcastle upon Tyne police today. They have recovered a fairly large haul of chainsaws, hedge trimmers blowers etc. One was from a customer of ours. They are checking arbsafe out to see if they can match serial numbers up so if you haven't already registered do so now!

Have you tried reviving the clutch by just whacking it with a flat chisel and lump hammer? It can take a good few hits but usually gets them off. There are some indents on the clutch to do this. I would definitely go that route if the plug thread is a bit suspect. I had to repair the thread on our 540 it's not the easiest/quickest of jobs to do.

The clutchdrum should spin fairly easily with no drag. The pump drive(worm drive) is a plastic piece the the drum slots into and turns the oil pump, if it isnt aligned properly when you tighten the clutch down it will deform the plastic worm drive. If this drags around the crankshaft it turns the clutch drum a bit like when the springs go on the 200t you mentioned. Take the clutch off and you will see it. It does sound like an issue with the drive chain components if its difficult to start with the chain brake on, wont tick over etc. check needle bearing(which you have obviously been greasing:001_smile:) worm drive and oil pump, if its has oiling probs it could be seizing up but then it wouldnt be oiling. you have to remove the grey plastic cover then the metal plate to get at the pump. The leaking tank vent could cause some of the other issues as already mentioned, they do leak, husky have stopped them venting into the air filter on the 550/560 now due to issues.Long nose pliers will help removing the vent, really easy job.

Thanks RichieR True Steve, could be quite a lot indeed! We put a load of stock to one side today but will be checking through them all now that there is a bit more info on how to visually check. Especially as we wont be getting any more stock of the recalled carabiners until the beginning of October. At least the Ultra O isnt on there, thats our best seller!

For those who dont have a pdf reader.

As most of you may be aware due to previous threads DMM are recalling some of their products. This is the latest information available which has some important updates as to which carabiners may be affected. Please see link below. dmm_product_recall_14_09_2015.pdf

Not a clue from me tbh as we didnt get to trial them.

Thanks for the replies and info. I used a v coil repair kit, it came with a thread chaser tap which guides the tap. AFAIK they are a good kit, ive used v coil on plenty of other threads from m2 on RC helicopters to m18 on chippers and not had a problem, hopefully its up to the job on this one. I did try to repair the thread with a thread chaser and thought I had it but after warming up the plug spun while tightening so decided to pull it apart again. I think I will buy a more expensive chaser that you insert then expand so it chasers the thread from the good end. Mark, the thread is the same size so you use the same type of plug. Started the saw up today and gave it a couple of revs, good enough for me. sniff. Just for reference I had to use 1.5d inserts but I had to trim 1 and a half coils as it was too long. Poxy little spark plugs:001_rolleyes:

Just wondering how many people have had success using a helicoil type of repair on a chainsaw plug thread? Ive used then on larger machines without problem but ive heard they arent the best solution and that something like a time sert should be used instead. I think also on an old 026 but I cant remember tbh:laugh1: I've given one a go (helicoil) today on a T540xp after one of the lads thought it best to insert the plug from the off with a combi spanner because it was too hot! Lucky it was our saw and not a customers as a new pot would have been on order! I will be giving it a good testing before its put to use again up a tree.

The first batch should be mid October, this first shipment will have free socks and an extra pair of laces. After that the supplier isn't sure if the socks will be included. Blue is the most popular colour being pre-ordered atm, then the green.

Oops sorry edited my post, £178.

Arbortec Scafell Lite £178, click here for details Probably the only blue chainsaw boot in the world!* They look really nice in flesh, better than the photo imo. Lots of very nice features including the price. IIRC they also come with a free pair of arbortec socks and an extra pair of laces. We will be getting stock in early October so give us a shout if you want to pre order a pair. They also come in black and the Arbortec green. *If not the only then probably the bluest!

No problem although the postie can't take any credit this time as I hand delivered it myself, didn't the Mrs tell you?

As a weight reference on a 12" husky techlite 320g husky standard 395g sugi pro light 395g sugi pro lam 400g oregon bar 445g Its not much on paper but you can tell the difference when you hold the bars, and see the balance on the saw. TBH though it doesnt make much difference in use, in regards to weight. There was an issue with some of the techlite bars delaminating but I have seen quite a lot that have lasted well in the hands of contract climbers.

That is well under cost price! A bargain if its genuine and not hot.

Will be interesting as thats a lot of wear with only two hours use, it is in the place Ive seen a few fail on but they have had a good couple of hundred hours on the clock.

As Spud suggests. It probably is that the brake band isnt fully disengaging. I would also check that the locating pin is still in the side case housing, ie the side casing isnt twisting and possibly forcing the brake band against the drum. Pin is here

That looks very worn i.e. Very thin where it's snapped but it could be the photo. If it is that thin then there is definitely a problem of the clutch drum rubbing on the brake band.

I must be blind a you do say you have a couple of batteries:blushing: Does sound like the charger is us.

We had a problem with a qc330, it was constantly blowing fuses. Do you have a couple of batteries? If so and both aren't charging see about getting the charger replaced under warranty.

Ha thanks. Although it's just something our rep told me which I thought was quite true. Sorry to hear about the theft:thumbdown: all to common these days unfortunately. I think your doing right in buying a petrol saw as your main machine, the battery saws do have their place but atm that's not to be a main/only pro saw imo. I wouldn't advise any pro user to buy a battery saw as their main saw.