Mark_Skyland
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Everything posted by Mark_Skyland
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The husky XP oil is a very good oil, so is the HP ultra so no problems using those.
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I think the stihl chain is pre stretched which would explain things a bit. It does look like you have a 8 tooth sprocket so an extra link would help, 7 is standard. It will stretch fairly quickly and as long as it isnt touching the rim sprocket it will be OK(we run the exact same setup so speaking from experience here)
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I know plenty of people who do use it and have no problems but they have been on the older generation of machines. Quite a few customers have told me their machines(mtronic and autotune) run far better on the hp super/ultra or husky low smoke/xp. The hp red is a basic mineral oil, the newer generation of saws do prefer a semi synthetic at the very least, this is not only my limited experience but what I have also been told by quite a few people who have far better tech skills/info than me.
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Thanks for all the info its very much appreciated. I think I will pass it on the the customer and see what he thinks. I had a good look but couldnt see any hairline cracks but it does wobble about a fair bit.
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Got a 550 in for repair which has had a mild seize. Fortunately the pot is in very good condition and needs next to no work unfortunately one of the crank stuffers is loose. Is there any movement allowed, and does anyone have any experience in using a saw that has this issue?
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As already mentioned you don't have to use husky oil for warranty purposes but you should use a decent quality oil and stihl hp red isn't one of them.
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It's just the top two mounts look the same but they have a little cut out that is on the opposite side where it fits into the body of the saw.
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It can be done easily enough without having to take the handle to bits. Just watch you don't put too much pressure on the fuel pipes and carb boot. Also they look similar but the A/V mounts are different.
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It shouldn't be a problem as a lot of the stihl saws use the exact same circlips and washers. I would check the groove in the shaft that the circlip locates into doesn't have something stuck in there preventing the circlip from fitting in properly. Usually it's chainsaw blocking material causing the issue. Other than that I would try changing the sun and bearing incase they are worn, although the 261 had plenty of clutch drum issues but it never really caused the circlip to pop out. You are putting the washer on the right way around aren't you as this also helps keep the circlip in place?
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No problem, its always a pleasure, although a little tiring. The driving, obviously....
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Stihl Ms201TC or TCM 2015 saw question
Mark_Skyland replied to theflyingscotsman's topic in Chainsaws
That's an m-tronic, you can tell by the on/off switch. As others have said the other side of the saw won't have any holes to adjust the carb. -
Excellent information, thanks for taking the time out chaps. Looks very promising, will have to have another chat with the Echo rep and see what we can do. Spares are something I want to have a decent stock of hence possibly narrowing the range down and just going for the more popular machines. Please keep the info coming. Cheers Mark
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Ive seen it on birch and red oak.
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Ive tried it with some 11mm marlow aeris. While the aeris isnt my favourite rope the ZZ still worked extremely well. Bearing in mind it was a new ZZ with no wear so not sure how a well worn one will work.
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Just a quick question as to what machines from the current range people are buying/using. We dont have any experience in using the Echo range so we would really appreciate any input into what works well. Thanks in advance. Mark
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Link to petzl site in regards to Zigzag changes http://178.237.111.13/files/all/all/communication-zigzag/ZIGZAG-information-031114-EN.pdf
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No problem In regards to some earlier questions, The cracks are nothing to do with misuse it is purely a manufacturing issue. This has been rectified with the newer version that has thickened links(there is a slight hump on them) and a change to the manufacturing process. Tests have been carried out where they basically destroyed (cut through)one side of the link, the zigzag still held together therefore there is no recall on this version but it will be replaced if cracks are found well, as long as its within 10 years. Steve, will you still be climbing then? There is a petzl article about it all , I will post a link when I find it.
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Lyon Equipment Lyon are the UK Petzl supplier and will only be happy to help, also best to contact the dealer you bought them from. No issues in replacing them at all if its in regards to the cracking etc.
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Yep that's that one. Or they hack someone's PayPal account and go on a spending spree Happened to us a few times, we always lose out, sometimes a lot more than others. You need to be very careful being paid by PayPal.
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Completely agree on using cheap oil. Mineral oil was ok on older machines but certainly not on the newer generation of machines, stihl included. These newer xtorq engines seem to run at a lower compression so using the decompressor when warm does cause starting issues ime.
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Thinking about it, yeah he was actually:laugh1:
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They are fairly pricy as they come with the foam pads etc, around £93 +VAT a pair. We do have a loose one but im not sure which side and it is in red.It would be £46+VAT if your interested(and its the correct side)
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They are fairly easy to replace, they just push in. Make sure they go in straight and square
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Do they look like these, i.e. Pads, fibreglass parts attached to aluminium shanks? distel-gecko-aluminium-climbing-spikes-classic Or are they all carbon fibre ie no aluminium shanks. If it's the former you can get replacement fibreglass parts. If it's the latter I think you are out of luck.
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Hopefully a bit of a better picture Yes there is a rubber one way valve in first then the brass filter Part no 537 40 35-01 for brass filter no 8 in diagram 530 02 61-19 for valve no 9 in diagram
