openspaceman

I guess you mean polytunnels? I have never had one for logs but my brother in law had an expensive disaster when one suffered in a gale and lost many bedding plants. We had an expert on polytunnels and their various plastic sheeting on the forum but someone got offensive so he left This is covered in some sort of clear polycarbonate and budget will be only 10% of that but if I had access to an existing polytunnel I'd try that rather than this DIY approach.

a major feature of this sort of saw is that it has no set, the clearance is given by the fact the blade is thickest at the teeth and tapers to the back. Thus initially every tooth is cutting exactly as its neighbour on the same side, hence the exceptionally smooth finish.

My understanding is that satisfies the requirements of HSaW 1974 with the exception of use of chainsaws as PUWER requires a nationally recognised certification. I actually never got hedgecutter, chipper or bruschcutter/strimmer qualifications and that did restrict me to some extent on civils jobs.

I've been doing small experiments with air drying, where essentially the sun is heating air and increasing its capacity to absorb moisture, and in free air (i.e. log standing by itself) and seeing oak dry from green to 20% mc wwb in 44 days. So as heat speeds drying up and solar heat has no fuel cost I started looking at small scale solar drying. I found just using cheap corrugated acrylic sheeting I could make a simple greenhouse where in the last 2 days the temperature has stayed above 40C for much of the day in sunshine with relative humidity falling to 24%. This is consistently more than 10C hotter than outside in the sun. RH is about the same because there is free air flowing and out. Last week I was employed dragging tops and stuffing an ancient chipper on a commercial refurbishment where the previous tenants had allowed the Leylandii and mixed broadleaved hedges run away. I noticed a pair of old cycle racks had been removed and set aside. I mentioned the possibilities of these being the beginnings of a solar log drying kiln for the boss's son, who runs a log round with about 40 customers in his college holiday. Boss being a petrolhead was not at all interested. I made an enquiry and they were available for sale (these things new cost about £5k erected) I sent a photo to the son and explained my thinking and he was interested. At this point father and son took over and bought the shelters. Now I'm not sure if they are going to implement the idea but I estimate placed side by side and south facing they will intercept 18kW(t) in sunshine. This is enough theoretically to evaporate nearly 30kg of water an hour if the air circulation is good enough. With the shelters side by side and south facing and a roofed area behind and the back being a curtain side from a lorry he should be able to stock about 20m^3 of split logs in stillages. I think wit a few low powered circulation fans and a differential thermostatic switch only running them when inside temperature is 10C above outside and a humidistat controlling a vent fan he should get good drying. If I am kept in the loop I will update progress.

Then it's not surprising the Stihl did better, the blade was hollow ground with a finer finish and the points on the teeth were well formed, the florabest one was coarser finish and you can see burrs on the points. Now if the steel is as good as the Stihl's you may be able to bring the Lidl saw back into shape with the judicious use of a diamond feather edge file.

When I was asked to help out on the railway I took my old Husky 262 but soon accepted a MS261 for its better power to weight when trudging in hundreds of yards. Now helping out on domestic arb jobs I far prefer to pick up the Husky 245, I have lost quite a lot of muscle mass in the last 2 years so weight has become important. For logging I'll stick with the old Husky and the little einhell I was given (for its lightness).

Is that about 5 transit loads? I'm up for a couple if I can borrow or hire a truck.and can help ringing up, give me a bell if it's not all promised.

Pass I didn't buy the record it would have been a friend's. Emily is an acclaimed artist now

I can believe you could see Emily play but Timon? Was he born then? I was 16 and humming it on my RE 250. I lost interest when Gilmore joined.

I think the gasket idea is likely to be best but I find UHU from the pound shop is petrol resistant.

That was the original ethos for the welfare state and has nothing to do with insurance, insurance is a bet just like the lottery or a betting shop. Just look on insurers as being posh bookies, they quote the odds so they will always win.

I know nothing about guitars but I was at the concert with a Dylan fan, she was most disappointed with his hoarse whisper, Alanis was great though.

The ones in the know with a tame liquidator keep the same name: owner changes name of company and goes into voluntary liquidation, gets 3rd party to buy back assets from administrator and buys a new company off the shelf, changes name of new company to the old company name which is now available.

This is the salient point and where the art/science of kiln drying for lumber comes in. Most of the problems of cracking occur because one part of the wood dries before the rest. Shrinkage occurs once the water in the cells is gone and the water associated with the cell walls starts leaving. So if one part is still full of water and the other dries below its fibre saturation point then the wood is strained and pulls apart. What kiln drying or air seasoning does is to only allow water to leave the cut surface at the same rate that water is able to migrate through the wood. Thus a ring dried homogeneously can stay as a ring without splitting as Silkyfox says. It will be species dependent though as every species has a different ratio of tangential to radial shrinkage, when this is high the tendency to pull apart down the radius will be higher and it will also be influence by weaknesses, like those associated with parenchymous tissue (rays and figure).

Impressive and says something about the construction method with such a perishable timber

My thoughts too

Simpler is better to my mind

I've done it on pines in heathland restitution but whilst the tree dies it takes longer than expected. I have also posted a picture of one where the tree carried on living because of root grafts with neighbours. Sour felling works though and now the trees will be actively transpiring.

Gary has anyone ever suggested you might be a trouble maker?

Not in my experience as you would need to sever the sapwood, just cutting the bark and cambium stops the roots being fed but not the sap flow for quite a while.

When I retired 18 months ago it was £5/tonne but I think it's shot up since, a big chip drying and reselling plant at a power station on the coast takes it for RHI boilers. It dries from green to below W30 in 16 minutes. Anyway with the chip maybe worth 400 but probably much less mass than that in the stand because of open spaces do the costs of moving machines and operating them for a day work out? How about 3 days over 3 quarters one man and a mini digger plus bonfire Or manually fell over same 3 quarters, leave trees whole and then take chipper in but accept the wood for free

Yes but with a replant condition for on the crop for the next 10 yars. I know but needs must... Anyway it's 2 hours with the Plaisance tops and what's 40tonne of chip worth standing?

Yes as I said, and from experience, FC measure any bits of the tree over 8cms including branchwood.

That's 1/6 ha so with a yield class of say 12 there would be at most 40m3 and it looks half that Only those bits bigger than 8cms count in the measure The wording is within the curtilage of the house which in this case is probably the bit from the back of the house to the entrance drive, possibly including the paddock to the front (SE) and probably not the paddock to the west and almost certainly not the bit to the north with the trees in it If you sell it then you restrict yourself to 2m3 per quarter, we're in the second quarter in 4 days. I'd fell 5m3 of the biggest trees within in the next four days, thin out any less than 10cms dbh in April and then fell 5m3 after the thinning for the next quarter and I'll bet there's not anything left that's licensable after that

it's not a stupid question and IMO hinges around whether the trees you intend to take would otherwise be final crop trees or whether the ones you take will improve the remaining stand. Thinning licence won't entail having to replant or expplain you will recruit trees from the remainder for restocking.