openspaceman

You're not alone as there was a distinct smell of woodsmoke when I got up this morning, mind I also got a whiff of MDF burning.

Maybe carb cleaner will do a better job? I've used vege oil since 1990 largely without problems but it does dry (in the same way oil paints dry, from oxidation) so if the saws are going to be stored always best to empty oil tank and run some thin mineral oil through. Vege oil also cakes on fins which potentially becomes a cooling issue.

First you need to do all the checks for a combustion leak into the coolant, this is normally done by sensing CO2 in the coolant. Even if there is no water loss the combustion gases are hot. When a radiator core gets blocked it's difficult to shift, I think they used to dunk it in hydrochloric acid for a few minutes, this would dissolve rust and calcium carbonate if no inhibitor had been used. I was told some antifreezes could react and deposit silicates (and I can't think what would shift that) but would only expect that with old antifreezes.. If that fails it needs a recore or replacement. If you are confident the head gasket is now fine and suspect a cracked head then try a shot of steel seal. It's a bodge but worked for 50k miles on a transit we had at work which was only recently scrapped (for rust not engine problems)

Then I suspect the radiator needs a more thorough clean especially if it has had any radweld type gunk or a mixture of blue and pink antifreeze.

Yes I found the same but they only cost about 15 quid. I always meant to dissect one and see what had happened but...

Why was this removed? Thermostats can both open the path to the radiator and simultaneously block the bypass used for quick warm up

Yes if the water is being lost

Retarded injector timing?

Spits and crackles but keeps for ages without deterioration

For as long as I remember it was normal for the groundie to fill the saws, warm them up if necessary and tie them on when required, while the climber sorts out his gear and starts climbing. Also not unusual for the climber to ask for a top handle saw to climb with on a dismantle where it's more convenient to remove small branches on the way up, from a strop and with spikes.

Yes but try and use the original rather than the rapid version. Mix the components very well and warm it with a hair dryer as this makes it set stronger and quicker. It also makes it far more runny

I still do odd days and charge more than that with just my own PPE, it's a lot less than I was on before.

Seconded, hope you find something soon Saul.

Our 2004-2009 transits towed 2.5 tonnes and grossed 3.5t. Payload with chip body and tipper about 800kg. The reason for going dual wheels is to allow load to be uneven as back axle rated at 2.4 tonnes, single wheel load has to be exactly placed for both axles.

Already unlawful in most cases. There's little they can do about bonfires or burning in domestic fireplaces so the only recourse is to control sale of fuel and smoke emission.

If you can turn it part way either direction it sounds like the bottom of the piston skirt is hitting the crankshaft bob weights at the bottom of the stroke or the big end is jamming on a bit of debris in the crankcase.

Yes I see where you are coming from, even if you dry during the summer your logs would gain moisture prior to sale in winter, BigJ said much the same with Scotland. Comparing a few dates in Summer my location has RH some 30%age points lower than yours. The other salient point is that even if the equilibrium moisture content indicates 20% with RH of 90% if the log is above 20% it will hardly be losing any water. I wonder how they derived the figure of 20%, it may have come from stoves manufacturers testing their offerings with wood at that mc. I've pointed out in the past that the water content of wood doesn't affect the energy content much but it does affect the completeness of combustion IF the firebox loses too much heat. Stubby recently said his stove had a double glazed door in order to maintain a high firebox temperature, so in the right stove there is no reason a high water content cannot be burned cleanly but in a simple metal box it may well be that 20% is needed. Your protimeter tells the story but it would be interesting to run an experiment with Lascar temperature and RH loggers in one of your covered loads and a similar one under a cover with no drying logs in parallel plus sample weigh both a log being dried from green and a bone dry log over a full year in your conditions. The paper also states that air seasoned wood needs 2 years (which I read as 2 summer seasons as little drying occurs October to April). I cut my own logs (from timber mostly care of Jonny Burch this year) and have no space to store 2 years worth under cover. Though I have shown I can get individual logs down to below 20% in a couple of summer months I know conditions are not that favourable in my stack and hence probably burn some logs at 30% or more if that bit of the stack has poor air flow. As my Jotul 602 is just a simple metal box I intend to upgrade to an "ecodesign" stove with an insulated firebox but have yet to find anything that sits in my fireplace with plenty of room at the sides and back like the Jotul does. I see, but you are still not addressing my point of the interpretation of 2m3, whether it means solid wood or a bulk volume. BTW with your approach to your firewood I'm confident in your furniture making skills should you revert to your old trade. As a naughty aside, I worked with an old lag who would buy a fine piece of antique furniture and strip it down to its parts, he would replicate all the parts and reassemble two pieces each with half new parts and half old and pass them off as the original genuine number. It was a shame he (and his boss) were so greedy as he was genuinely skilled and knowledgeable about antiques.

Well I don't think it is all over 300 metres but if your calculation is right that's an average of about 3.5GW, about the same as biomass power generation for all UK and less than 10% of winter average daily demand. Personally I've nothing against turning Wales into a vast hydro electric reservoir ? (I cannot find a tongue in cheek smiley)

Yes it's dangerous but its electromagnetic radiation rather than alpha, beta or gamma radiation from nuclear fission The saying is "it's Volts that jolts but mills that kills" so the voltage drives the shock but it's the milliamps passing through vital organs that kills you, hence in the bad old days they did everything one handed to prevent a shock passing from one arm to another and stopping the heart in between. Personally I'd look on it the same as a wood processor and its safety switches, all voltages held to earth unless all safety covers in place.

Can you give a reason for this? Also I couldn't tell from the paper whether the 2m3 was a solid measure or bulk measure. 2m3 of solid hard wood at 20%mc wwb would weigh about 1 tonne or am I missing your point?

Would you like to work out how much rain falls on Welsh land which is over 300 metrs asl and then calculate what potential energy that has?

Squaddies have been provided with them for quite a while now, I wonder how real life training it is.

Yes I think that was the case but now why should I care that the Stihl has a bigger engine it's power to weight that counts, and possibly fuel economy.

Snot radoactive it's a radio frequency waveguide, it'll cook your gonads at close range. I thought it was only the high voltage that did the burning , in which case no reason to use the RF is there? mind in the labs they keep one hand behind their backs.

Me too except I got mine off freegle. I enquired here about getting a high lift blade just for this purpose. I'm also considering if I could modify it to do a bit of lawn levelling with a scarifier tine.