openspaceman

I suspect it's a deposit of molten fly ash. Molten potash forms a euctectic mixture with silica and glass is largely silica so it fuses into the glass. You said yours was a ceramic which may be different from glass.

During a faculty dinner at the university of West London's the Professor said experiments with ground penetrating radar were showing up annual rings when used to detect decay. From the little I understood the science was in the algorithm that processed the return signal rather than it being a breakthrough.

Sounds like an ideal case for a self gripping puller based around a two spring loaded quadrants, like two giant opposed STEIN adjustable rope grabs. Drop them over the post and lower till the cams are apart, then lift so they self grip, pull the post. To eject crowd forward and lower simultaneously.

This sort of thing is why I'm not a fan of overrun brakes. It's another of those anomalies along with no MOTs for trailers and youngsters driving big tractor and trailer combos that seems to exist because the relatively few numbers mean the contribution to accident statistics is low. I would like to see heavier commercial trailers with proper proportional control from the service brake and sensed ABS but suspect the expense would outweigh the advantage.

But Bob we've only had a couple of inches of snow, none of the main roads had snow cover for more than 5 hours and even those roads not gritted had only a hard pack and no drifting which, because there were few out and about, meant I did not get stuck in jams because some numpty had gone 9in a ditch. 2010 was worse IMO. Now a thaw has set in even our little road is clear but it could get exciting tonight if it freezes to black ice.

Is this just the exhaust, wiring will only be an issue if there is no roof to splice new bits in.

Are all the clutch springs present?

What makes you say mine failed with a f* tyre, indeed which one of mine are you referring to? All my cars passed their last MOT although the "sports" car broke down for the first time ever on the way home when the posh electronic fuel pump broke, so I put the original one with contacts back in.

So there'l be no PG9 for private vehicles slapped on them? Mind I find it quite strange that my "sports" car will no longer need an MOT.

...and alder buckthorn for the fuses apparently. Possibly why the army decided on Aldershot

That would make it the same basic density as spruce yet I would have put it up with scots pine. If I find some I'll do some measurements.

Yes If the wood is all green I wonder which of the two has more dry mass, beech or alder? I don't have a moisture content for fresh alder. I think most would prefer beech as it is denser

I wonder if he too used to supply turnery poles. The striping, done with a tool made from a looped bandsaw blade attached to a long handle enabled the poles to season at a controlled rate if they couldn't immediately be extracted, otherwise the rot soon set in. As you know, I said earlier in the thread, birch bark is oily and waterproof so rotting takes place in the round and there is a positive feedback from the moisture condensed out as it is respired by the bugs. For firewood there’s no worries about structural value being maintained so xcut and split is faster at getting rid of moisture. Well BTUs or calorific value are much the same between hardwoods but birch has a bright lively flame probably because it is perishable with more Volatile Organic Compounds being evolved and yes I would be happy with only birch. Alder is also good for me. Although my experiments showed not much difference between species drying in free air in my stack the birch has done better than the oak, not at all sure why.

At 14k rpm with 7 tooth sprocket that's over 31m/sec, too fast for class 3 even. I think the tests are done with a chain up to speed but not driven, so powering a saw through the material is likely to cut further until the clutch clogs with fibres

I've no idea when one should wear class 1 or 2 boots but the class is just the chain speed it was tested at, so class1 resist cutting at 20m/sec chain speed

Thanks understood now

In the position he is it's not a big problem because if he were unable to control the kickback his hand would be struck by the front guard and trigger the brake. The problem is more pronounced when felling when the hand is on the side of the front handle, if the saw kicks back th e hand falls toward the bar. At least he is wearing gloves. Many of us do it with no consequences but it remains a practice that will cause a candidate to fail an assessment. A bit like YO YO starting.

Not quite but I just handed on a honda civic hybrid with 100k miles. Perfect in every respect but the IMA battery is just about playing up, £2000 to replace. If it gets through MOT without warning lights showing my mate will just potter around in it without the electric motor assist. Interestingly the previous lady owner only managed 39mpg yet in the short time he's had it he's getting 50mpg.

Mine's out on loan at the moment but the MR Funnel has a sump at the bottom for the water to collect in, this means that if you pour clean fuel in it there is always a residual amount of fuel in the bottom. It's great for filtering a small amount of contaminated drainings which you inevitably have AFTER you have taken the measures Bob and Treequip have advised, but it's slow. I'd use it to fill the machines with rather than try and sort an already contaminated tank, gravity will do the separation given time. With diesel the worry will be that bugs have been living in the water and living off the diesel so there may be a gel of them on the bottom of the tank which needs dealing with. Once sorted just make sure the fuel draw off point is a couple of inches above the drain tap.

The smaller wires won't survive abrasion from sliders well so I’d stick with 6x19, it's also easier to splice. I preferred hemp cored for the same reason and it's more flexible. Most of mine were also galvanised so resisted rusting quite well but I did occasionally oil them.

Agreed, it's a good memorial well executed I have neither the skill nor the artistry

If you dig them you get the whole root and any big laterals out, then a mulcher over a windrow of them deals with them in quick order. Many times I've see roots ground out that then subsequently cause problems as they were not deep enough. Grinders are great for back gardens but 360 and mulcher works well for development sites where the topsoil and mulch can be bunded and then used later in the soft landscape works.

"appear" being the operative word If it's council land it's publicly owned but that says nothing about what rights the public may have over it. If it's common then the owner will be whoever succeeded to the title of the manor, that would mean those rights shared in common with the landowner by individual households will now be covered by various acts of parliament from the 1906 openspaces act, the 1925 law of property act and the various commons acts from 1899 through to 2006. Some private commons possibly still exist with no pubic rights over them, The fact is land is always owned by some entity and if it can pass to no one on death then it reverts to the crown. I suspect anyone suing for criminal damage would pursue the person most likely to have assets. Having said that I know of a case where about 10 mature pines were felled by a neighbour, for the view. The FC would not pursue the felling licence angle and the costs of action exceeded the value of the trees so the owner could do nothing.

I think having the top covered is the nub. I have shown it's fairly easy to get a 2kg green log down to below 20% in free air as an indivudual but it's something else to do the same in a stack as airflow becomes the limiting factor.

This is my experience too. I have just this week cut into a stack of sycamore that appeared to have dried out in the round, bark had fallen off and the incipient rot is plain to see, it has lost nearly 4% of it's weight in 4 days in my unheated outhouse. From which I conclude it has regained moisture from it's more open texture. It also burns poorly with little flame which also suggests it's the more volatile bits of the dry matter that have been lost to rot. So yes, cut and prepare it from green, maintain good airflow and prevent it rewetting so as to get it below the moisture content where rotting microbes can respire dry matter as soon as possible.