Joe Newton
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Everything posted by Joe Newton
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One has to ponder the reasons why any person would turn to this forum for a partner. Most of us come here to escape them!
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Grounds for divorce I'd say!
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Sugi Hara light type bars are what Jon affectionately calls RobD bars. They are beautifully made and will outlast the Husqy bars by a looong way. Husqy make great saws but their bars are rubbish, IMO. That said, I've just traded a Sugi bar for a pair of used autographed boxers, so they can't be that great!
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I want one!!!!! 13" full chiz?
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Stihl 201t, and a ported 357 on a 15" bar, 8t sprocket. These are my saws but come out at work if we have a big dismantle cos they work better than the work saws. I timed my 441 against the works 361, both on 20" bars and my saw was over twice as fast!
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Off topic, but I would never have guessed. Your English is by far better than many people I know who speak it as a first language If you are using this line for work positioning only, and have a seperaye line for fall arrest, I see no issue with using a hitch and slack tending pulley on a single line. It should work well.
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Aah, I see
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Hang on... Who's offended who? Apart from me offending anyone who looked at that photo
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I'll need a photo of your Mrs before I decide if I'm offended
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Don't trust that Bolam. He keeps texting me for saucy photos. Hopefully this will shut him up:
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Yeah you can, just have to fiddle about until it works for you
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It's true! I wish I'd bought a 241! Love my 211 though.
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Why would they lie?
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There is also confusion between a percentage of the canopy to be removed, and a percentage of the overall height of the tree, which is invariably harsher. I won't get into the minefield that is reduction specs, but as long as you carry out your work to a good standard you shouldn't get any quibbles reducing a couple of branches an extra half metre to bring into shape. It's academic really since you'll be pruning to the growth point nearest the specified length (or should be), as opposed to literally pruning back 2m and leaving an internodal stub.
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When we get a new person I'd like to start each day with us all holding hands for a prayer, followed by an aerobic stretching routine. Problem is I'm rubbish at keeping a straight face.
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The 620 is supposed to be a good saw. Solid and reliable. Perhaps not quite as quick as the Husqy equivalent 560xp but I reckon better suited to your needs. 20" bar max. Or a 372 like Hodge says above
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The magnum is around 70cc, the Super is 66cc. I ran a 20" on my Super and it wouldn't have handled more comfortably.
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On the link it says that the return is important as they need to evaluate how the used product has held up to its usage. I would have thought similar. Also gives participants more incentive.
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Wonder how many people will have "mislaid" their products when it comes to return-o-clock
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I thought the grease would burn off before it caused slipping. Ill clean and degrease the shoes and clutch and see from there. Shoes look to be fine. It really hasn't worked hard.
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Any idea what could cause a slipping clutch on a 211? Chain stops in the cut but the revs don't slow by much. Funnily enough I've just had the clutch off to clean out behind it. I greased the needle bearing, wondering if a bit of excess grease is causing it. I'll clean it up again without grease and see
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I'quite heavy and just asking for advice on foot macanical accent
Joe Newton replied to Pbtaylor2014's topic in Climbers talk
I have the new pantin, and it's fine. I use 11mm blaze, but it works fine on 13mm hi vee too. At first it clipped out on occasion, but it was down to poor technique. Oh, and I'm 23 stone (when aroused). -
To be fair you both did well to get that far. In my opinion.
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If it was lighter it wasn't the new 360
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I think it involves a new flywheel/ignition coil. Possible different carb too.
