agrimog

to slow there, Ian, has the front been changed then, different bonnet and wings

its not a U1000, so it could be a U1200, or a U1500, ( narrow axles and mudgaurds give it away), so 7.5t GVW, so as long as it agg registered, a 10t trailer will be no problem. I'm with mendiplogs on the crane size though, king post and first arm suggest arround a max of 3t lift, maybe a bit less depending on how its piped, ( most cranes run a wp of around 300bar, the mogs own systen is 200bar, so you loose a third of your lift capability, unless your running a dedicated pump system, usually a pump driven off the back of the gearbox input shaft, check your data sheet for N16) it is possible to get the origonal build spec for every mog built from the chassis no, Ian at a quick guess, I'd say your one starts 424

so many farmers have dumped the nfu insurance services there having to cover there buts by upping all there polices

chris, sorry to be the one to put a real dampener on your idea, but, wake up and stop living in cloud cukoo land, no-one in the industry is even going to speak to someone with no history, or track record behind them, never mind employ them for a managment role. get your qualifications, find a starting job in the industry, then start to learn how its really done, not how some lecturer, and some books say how its done !

unless you've got accses to a kiln, and a good wood machine shop, you'll be cheaper buying oak flooring, .....rough saw,(prefer quarter sawn) air dry for arond 12 months....20-30%, kiln dry to 8-10%, mill to rough size, plane and mould to finish size, (remember grain orientation, and relief grooves on the back,) fix down(stainless or brass fixings)or...... save yourself a lot of grief and cost, and see what kind of deal you can get from the big flooring warehouses ( bonus being the high quality urathane finishes available)

everyone is going to push you to go for an alaskan, but look at logosol's big mill system, right from the basic one through to the level just below the full blown M8 mill, they allow you a simple and easy way to produce accurate timber with very little effort, check the stuff on you tube

extractor looks reasonable, but your never going to get it perfect with a chainsaw, invest in a good brush and dustpan.....lol.....be thankfull your not running the log shaper, makes shavings quicker than I can bag them up. think on the nice warm mill shed, and start looking for a sawdust burning system (no waste disposal and heat to boot)

no chain, a mechanismn like a toothed archimedian screw, no links to get anything jammed in, and no constant adjusting of loose chains

the only change in most winches that I would make is to throw away the solenoid packs and fit the more modern solid state types, 90% of all winch problems I've had to fix was the solenoid packs, either damp and sticking, stuck connectors, or coil packs burned out, only problems I've had with the solid state ones is wires falling off due to bad crimps

it wont matter 1 iota whether the cable runs to the battery, or through the chassis, as long as the connections are clean and corrosion free, and secure. there is absolutly no requirement to run the ground cable back to the battery, as long as the chosen ground point is on the same part of the steel stucture as the battery ground point the pd will be the same, problems only occur when there are multiple joints like in a modern monocoque these rely on the simple spot welds to ensure electron flow. and if you want the ultimate winch connections, go to high quality welding cables, the finer the conductors inside the cable, the higher the current carrying ability.

J, I'm with teed on this one, Ihave both an M7 and a band mill, both have there places, the M7 is so much more mobile, I have taken it into the middle of plantations on the sides of hills down here in the SW of scotland, and taken the milled timber out ready for use, yes the band mill is quicker, but at a cost, the timber usually requires to be planed for anything other than a rough sawn finish, whearas with a carefully sharpened chain, the M7 produces an almost smooth finish, ( this negates the old argument about bigger kerfs, how much do you loose planning timber ?), teed is in the very lucky situaton of having a 3phase supply at hand, and thus able to use the electric version of logosols mill, this cuts as quick as a bandmill. if not quicker (5KW motor !!!)it has to be seen to be believed, plus the autofeed, it makes for very quick, precise sawing, teed also has one other option , should he choose, the bandmill which logosol produce for the M7/M8 and farmers mill, this again is 3phase, the only reason which prevented me going down this route, not too many big red sockets in the forests in scotland....lol... keep up the good work Teed, the videos are excellent

ouch...a painfull reminder that machines always win, I've several scars and lumps to remind myself of this fact, and I hope you cleaned the blood off the machine, its as corrosive as hell !!!!!!!, you take care of that finger and let it heal properly now

speed doesnt come in to it, even after the change in RTA rules for tractors in england and wales earlier this year, your still limited to 25mph, end of, so it doesnt matter what gearbox, how many hp, or whether it has air brakes or not, unless you have suspension on each of the 4 wheels, you aint going any faster.......3points and £100 says so

you just point at the little CE sticker on whatever your using and tell them to get the feck off your site, they're not cleared to be there

two schools of thought on Kellfri, you'll have to make your own mind up. personally, theyve been in the game for a while, and there still going, says enough for me

here we go with this " you must have a ticket" crap, if you are using a chainsaw mill, maintenance and crosscutting more than covers you, and if its a bandsaw mill, the manufacturer, or there representitive, familurisationcourse satisfies the H&S nazis, there is no need for more "ticket" collectors, theres going to be a generation of so called woodcutters out there who can tell you how to do the perfect job, but arent actually capable of even splitting a bit of kindling

compared to some of your glasgow city councillors, there not even close to snouts in the trough, more corruption than a third world country

ford F150, or chevy 2500, both diesel, and towing 3500kg is a light load for them, proper working pickups, not lightweight toys (the american market will only rate the jap pickups as 1/2 ton) unless built a lot stronger, toyota tundra for example, but toyota wont make it available here ?

if your going to use it for winching, speak to clarks and get the proper stuff, the blue dynema doesnt like getting hot, or being dragged through dirt or over anything sharp or abrasive, its great for vehicle recovery or the winch challenge stuff, but not for timber work

the usual trick for cutting old greenheart.........get some other fool to do it.....unless you've got kit set up for cutting metal, its going to go through blades quicker than prunes through an OAP

a small tip for anyone running a sprinter, or a LT 2 , apart from the engine and main ecu, 99% of the parts are interchangeable, so if its to expensive at the merc parts desk, try the vw commercial one, and vice versa, and you'll need the merc 16 pin adapter for both for any code readers

the v6 (3l) has a terrible reliability record, not really a commercial motor, plus only available with auto box

depends on spec, most are under 3'5 tonne, stay away from the v6 model, and ensure its got a good service history, most of the 4x4s were built by Iglhaut so some parts are very expensive

3/4" is in the range, 3 tpi might take a little fettling, but should be possible, you might want to speak to grindlux and see if there is a cam specific to the band

I have had idiots in range rovers and disco's try to argue with my mog before, they just cant get there head ropund the fact that I am not giving way to there shiny toys