Spruce Pirate

Looks like two small vents in the back, but not sealable, head will get wet if it rains. Still think it looks good though.

Helmets are zero rated aren't they? WHat's the lifespan of the helmet? It looks good, but if it's only good for 3 years it's VERY expensive. I think the Petzel lasts 10 years, if you can get 10 years out of it its only £16.50 / year. Still about twice the Petzel price though.

Done, how many trees I can identify without assistance took some thinking about!

Everyone is too worried about getting sued here to put anything down in concrete terms. All these things rely on being suitably vague until a case comes to court and a judge finally has to make a ruling.

Industry best practice states that they should only be used up a tree, simple as that, it's not legal, but if an accident occurs my understanding is you could be in trouble as you are not complying with "Industry Best Practice". I much prefer a rear handled saw on the ground, they are much more stable. I agree, almost everyone uses a top handle on the ground occassionally (other saw out of fuel, chain blunt, in the van, whatever reason), but it is safer to use a rear handle, therefore that should be used. For all those who say it's not safer try this: Take a 2' piece of wood and hold it out at waist height with both hands at one end, then get your mate to push the end up towards your face. It will be very easy for them to smack you in the chest/face with it. Do the same again, but hold the wood with your hands 1' apart, you will be able to control the wood better and perhaps defelct it away from your chest/face. The difference in position of the hands is the same as that comparing top and rear handle saws. I know which I'd rather have given the choice.

That's a good point, two local tree work websites have the same photo of a guy working off a ladder on them.

Is it a tennis racket?

I think it is true that it's only a recomendation and "industry best practice" that top handled saws aren't used on the ground, BUT, if it hits the fan and there's any sort of investigation then you'll be in it up to your eye balls for doing so. In reality I think most people still use top handles on the ground from time to time. Rear handled saws on the ground reduce the risk of kick-back and are therefore deemed to be safer. In the UK we shouldn't be complaining about not being able to use top handles on the ground, we should be glad that we're still allowed to use them at all! With regards to the original post, if it were me I would not be putting pictures on a website unless they were squeky clean, but it's amazing how many you see of people using inappropriate tools, working off ladders, etc...

I think they are supposed to work this way: Take an AFAG out to work with you (in reality you need several). Get your mate to observe you working. There are several little boxes on the left hand side which he / she can tick off as required. If you do something wrong I think you put an X in the box rather than a tick. Make any notes on the back. Fill out who completed it and who verified it. Remember, whoever is completing it must not be within 2 tree lengths of you (or whichever relevant exclusion zone applies), they may therefore want to take a pair of binoculars with them to observe you. This is, in my opinion, one of the most pointless exercises you will ever complete, however if it keeps the client happy then it doesn't take much to go through it and tick the boxes. I think they're supposed to be done every 3 months or so.

For occassional use I can't fault the Mitox. Can't remember the model, but for £150 inc VAT it's good value for the money. Comes with vac bag as well. Not in the same league as Stihl, but much cheaper.

Sorry no help from here. As far as I know FC will not, under any circumstances, accept lone working with chainsaw, no matter what safety systems you have in place and what 1st Aid certs you have. Doesn't matter whether you're employed by them, working as a contractor, sub-contractor, as a volunteer or anything else. If you're on their ground and want to use a saw you need NPTC's, PLI and at least two of you (second person does not have to be a saw operator, so long as they are there). All machine operators need to be FMOC'd. No exceptions, no relaxations, no nothing, right or wrong that's the way it is. Really sorry to hear that its putting a small rural enterprise out of business, but I'm not surprised that you're in this situation. Despite all the promises of supporting local enterprise etc, the FC will almost always fall back on a rigid set of rules which are much easier adhered to by the big players than the local small guy. Take your wife, take someone who's retired in the local village and looking for something to fill the time. So long as they're on site and capable of dialing 999 and communicating with the emergency services they will do!

Inspired idea.

Unfortunately, at the moment, I don't have the luxury of being able to go and see for myself, not that I wouldn't like to. I only asked the question as I was interested in any real differences in technique, training, etc between different places, we do all tend to do things slightly differently after all. Whether or not this makes anyone actually "better" is pretty subjective. I tend to agree that some from all nations will be good, and some bad. I have worked with Irishmen on the saw in the past and seem to remember they were pretty mixed, some good, some bad.

Ewan Kerr

I should be doing something more productive, but having just read another thread on here, there seems to be an idea that NZ / Ozzie / US climbers and cutters are better than the Brits. I've never worked with any, so don't know if this is true or not? Anyway, I was wondering why? Is it different training? Different techniques? Start on the saw younger? Must be something. Just curious.

Looks a great piece of kit. Out of curiosity, is it not better to lower the stump as much as possible before grinding?

How do you stage the scenery?

Art Deco Zebra Skin Rug?

Couldn't agree more - had two recently qualified lads start in the last year. Told each to cut 3m down to 12cm - totally blank looks, no idea what I was on about, had to explain about lengths and top diametres. To go slightly back to topic, one of these is now getting quite good and looking to do more tickets, the other hasn't picked up a saw in probably 9 months. The worrying thing about this is that in my world he has a ticket and so clients will accept him as a cutter, despite being extremely lacking in experience, on the other hand, if I take on a cutter qualified in 1995 who has not been refreshed since they will not. This seems crazy to me, but that seems to be the world we live in.:thumbdown:

Council guy is wrong - NPTC certificates do not CURRENTLY expire. The change of numbers does not affect their validity, it should be possible to find out which of the new numbers are equivalent to 10 & 16. Refresher seems to be the big thing at the moment, I have two clients who insist that all operators are refreshed every three years. If you were to do a refresher course it would be in the equivalent units, probably 30 & 31, you should be able to get a refresher certificate to go with this. I have heard that re-certification may be introduced, ie we would all have to re-sit our tickets every 5 years. In my view refresher is not a bad thing - especially for the more infrequent or part time users, but recertification is a totally different thing. I'd be interested to hear other peoples thoughts on this or if anyone else has heard anything.

I think there used to be a pick up version of the Mini where the lights were in the sides of the pick up bed, but the number plate was in the centre of the tailgate. I think the plat used to be hinged along the top edge and secured with a clip at the bottom, if running with the tailgate down you released the clip and the plate hung vertically. It was presumably legal to transport a load with the tailgate down then, but legislation may have moved on a bit since Mini last made a pick up.

How long is the MOT? Check the chassis and boot for rot too. If you have to pay to get the welding done you could easily spend another £1500 giving you £3000 for a motor that's almost 20 years old. Old Discos are great vehicles, but they need to be cheap as chips to buy.

Instant garden looks good when its done, but in my experience even 6' standards will sit for a while, and generally grow more slowly. Putting in young trees is therefore my prefered option as they're cheaper, easier to plant (and replace if there's a problem) and catch up the standards quite quickly. If you have to go for the larger trees compost is not a bad idea, I've done a few this way mixed in with the soil, I think it gives better aeration. I was always told to make sure and water them in well, particularly in dry weather, if you get a dry spell after they're planted make sure the owner knows to water them as well. Its a few years since we did any, but I think the last time two of us did three trees in just over half a day, including cages. Don't take that as gospel though as I think its at least five years ago and the memory's not always that hot.

Talk them out of planting 6' trees, put in 40-60's instead, pence to buy, planted in minutes, they'll take a couple of years getting to 6', but in the grander scheme of the lifespan of a tree what's five years or so?

Yes, I meant raising the dish up, not neccesarily on a pole. Point being, it was deemed much more acceptable to fell numerous large, established, albeit exotic conifers, rather than simply raise the dish up the wall or onto a roof. Didn't, and doesn't, make much sense to me.