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Spruce Pirate

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Everything posted by Spruce Pirate

  1. Spruce Pirate
    Don't like the cold season, don't like the midge season, don't like the wet season. The other three days of the year I'm like a pig in ****. Wouldn't want to do anything else though.
  2. Spruce Pirate
    I like that idea. In all seriousness I think we would all be more willing to sign up to these things if we felt there was a bit more reward to them. The benefits of "it means you comply with H&S", "it will allow you to stay on our approved list" make it seem as though you're having to do it just to stand still. The "you need it if you want to work for us" seems more like a threat than an incentive. More carrots, less sticks makes a lot of sense to me.
  3. Spruce Pirate
    Believe it or not I once had a machine operator extracting the Michael about the height of my stumps!!! That was funny. Back to the point - it's not just cutters the problem is with. Quality planters are hard to find, and if planting isn't done right the problem knocks on right down the chain. Forget the cutters and get some quality planting squads sorted out. Far too much "its only sticking a tree in the ground" mentality at all levels, especially managment.
  4. Spruce Pirate
    Well said, just about sums up all the recruitment problems this industry faces in one post. Anyone got any ideas on solutions? 'cause I don't.
  5. Spruce Pirate
    Must've done if it supported the whole tree including the root ball! Presumably it withstood the dynamic loading of the rootball lifting out of the ground as well. Buitlt 'em strong back in the day.
  6. Spruce Pirate
    Try asking around the local farms. There are still a few around which might be for sale for the right money. Other than that I think they're getting into "collector's items" and a decent one will either be too much money or too restored for putting to work in the woods.
  7. Spruce Pirate
    Without the adjacent trees I don't see what you could do other than get some kind of crane in. Even with the trees it still looks a proper head scratcher of a job. Good result, very tidy.
  8. Spruce Pirate
    Semi-Chisel Chain. That's always a mistake!
  9. Spruce Pirate
    Yeah, to be fair, you did get in first. With saws, my general philosophy is: if in doubt, get a new saw, prefferably bigger.
  10. Spruce Pirate
    This thread moves too fast! By the time I've finished typing there's always a rake of other replies duplicating my thoughts!
  11. Spruce Pirate
    Even if they're not hollow, a bore cut should get them down with a 24" bar. It needs to be a REALLY big tree to be unable to bore it and fell it with a 24" bar. If you can't get a 36" bar for the 395 straight out of the box then just buy the power head and a bigger bar and chain separately. Personally I'd look at getting the 395 with a 28" bar and chain, then you've got it, and get the bigger bar and chain (plus probably drive sprocket due to different pitch) for occassional use.
  12. Spruce Pirate
    I run a 660 on a 30" bar, but wouldn't go much bigger than that for any period of time, even though they say it will take a 36". I think I would treat the 395 the same way. It maybe says 28" max in the catalogue, but pretty sure it would pull a bigger chain for occassional use. 385 certainly runs a 28" bar with no problems.
  13. Spruce Pirate
    OK, so I've now looked on the link and found its 6,293km. Should've done that first. Well done.
  14. Spruce Pirate
    Out of curiosity, how far is that? How long has it taken?
  15. Spruce Pirate
    I like the big Stihl bar. Previous one was a Bahco, which broke. Never tried the Oregon for comparison, but would recommend the big Stihl.
  16. Spruce Pirate
    I think this is the point I was trying to make in my fist post on this thread - Ant, you appear to be competent to make the decision if you need to use the brake or not. In the context of a professional ground saw user I find the habit of clicking on the brake after every single cut excesive and this is what I seem to notice about the way saw use is taught these days. I was thinking about this thread on Friday (had a rare Saturday off yesterday) and did find myself using the brake more often than I thought I did. Not sure if I'm just getting soft as a result of this thread or if I normally use it more than I think I do. Still no one has explained why putting it on with the right hand is so dangerous. Could somone please do so as I genuinely don't understand?
  17. Spruce Pirate
    Isn't that why we're all in tree work - the glamour?
  18. Spruce Pirate
    I totally agree with this, I'm much better using the brake in a tree - I think a greater sense of self preservation kicks in. Maybe I am too old fashioned, or not concerned enough with my own safety on the ground, but it's the way I was taught and has become habit. I'm not saying I never use it (slopes, awkward situations etc as said by others), but I'm certainly not as keen on it as the guys who've done training more recently, and yes I've been refreshed, and yes it did come up during that too. I still don't understand the problem with putting it on with your right hand (I normally use my left wrist by the way). Putting it on with your right hand = right hand not on throttle = chain not spinning, so what's the problem?
  19. Spruce Pirate
    If the idle is set properly and the chain is tensioned correctly and the saw is in generally good conditon then don't need to use it all the time, and yes I agree it does slow you down. I also don't see what's wrong with knocking it on with the right hand if you're holding it in your left. The chain shouldn't be moving in that situation as your hand won't be on the throttle. Constantly having the brake on seems to be a modern thing, all the new guys seem to do it. When I did my ticket I asked if I needed the brake on in addtion to having the saw on the other side of the tree when moving branches and was told no, it would be a fail as the saw is in a safe position anyway - in other words if you were "competent" you needed to know when to use the brake and when not to. Now it seems to be brake on to start, brake on to move an inch, brake on to fuel the saw. Seems to be a good way to wear out chain brakes to me.
  20. Spruce Pirate
    Good point - well put.
  21. Spruce Pirate
    This thread makes me sad. Has it really come to this? That an experienced operator cannot show another person how to operate a tool because they must ensure that they don't end up in court or held liable if something goes wrong? I fully appreciate why people say that you should in no way offer training (indeed, you may be liable yourself if you say anything else!), but still, just sad really. It is a pretty poor reflection on our society if you ask me.
  22. Spruce Pirate
    Is this for felling? Only asking, as the noise of a 2' tree falling will probably negate the silence of the saw.
  23. Spruce Pirate
    Agreed, was being overly pedantic with dates in 1st post.
  24. Spruce Pirate
    For what it's worth, I think this is very true. Provided you are only showing someone how you work to industry best practice and that they understand they are not being "trained/instructed" I don't see how you can be held liable. I might be tempted to get to know the individual a bit first though, to make sure they're not a complete half-wit, or didn't get the money to but the woodland by suing their driving instructor following a shunt.
  25. Spruce Pirate
    Were they still making 262's in 2003? 560 gets my vote, I did like the 262 though, never used a 357, but heard very mixed reviews of them.

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