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Spruce Pirate

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Everything posted by Spruce Pirate

  1. I'd agree with much of what you say Big J, having just finished a small hardwood thinning (oak) I experienced many of the same problems. It does have to be said that this was the first hardwood thinning I've done in a couple of years, and that's probably about the frequency of them, so we don't get the chance to practice in hardwood. I like to think I'm pretty profficient at getting a tree on the deck, but if you manage to get a course/seminar/training day, whatever you have in mind, put together I'd certainly be interested in it.
  2. I did have a pair of the Oregon Waipoua, but only type A. They were OK, but they didn't stand the test of time very well, outer material ripped quite easily after a short while and the gusset went pretty quick (maybe should've got a bigger size?). I also found them pretty hot for type A's, despite vented material round the back. All in all, its the usual complaints I have about saw trousers. I think the Oregon Fjordlands are better. Can't comment on the SIP's, almost had a pair once, but they weren't in stock in my size. I know a few folk who've used the Hi-Flex and they seem pretty durable.
  3. Not very good with links, hope this works, its the best I could find. Set up of sling isn't very clear. To roll tree to right, pass sling around the back of the tree, pass right end through left and choke back on itself, the further round the tree it is choked the more turn you'll get, if you've got the length in the sling then wrap it a couple of times. To roll to left pass left through right and wrap. Hope this makes sense.
  4. Yeah, they're great. Just need a bit of respect when starting, if you're used to new saws with a decompressor they've got a real kick.
  5. Turning a hung up tree out, or winching the butt back?
  6. Bloke I did a bit of work for years ago told us a story of his brother doing a bit of fencing somewhere up the hill around about Dalwhinie (middle of nowhere to those of you who don't know), anyway they'd stopped for lunch and taken shelter in the back of a peat hag, they were doing a fence next to a path at the time, and left all the tools (saw, hammers, pliers, etc) lying on or next to the path. Two walkers came up, saw the stuff, one turns to the other and says, "isn't it amazing, anyone could just lift that saw and be off with it". At this point a voice booms out from the peat hag, "no they (expletive) couldn't". Walkers apparently had a brown trouser moment. Point being, just because you see something that looks unattended, doesn't mean that it actually is.
  7. Always local if possible, especially for saws and the like, but I'm quite lucky with local dealers. I can walk in with a saw and pretty much get a problem fixed there and then unless its major. Yes they're slightly more expensive than the online boys, but money in their pocket puts money into the local pubs keeps one of the local rugby team in the area and so on. If I get a saw from 400 miles away I can't walk in and get instant service like that, and, frankly, I don't really care about their local pub or rugby/football team. That said, if service locally was p*ss poor, I might look on-line.
  8. I couldn't agree more. There now seems to be a lot of duplication and I'm unsure whether my old units cover some of the new ones. If anyone can help clear this up I'd be grateful.
  9. Hazel? I remember collecting nuts for seed years ago from what was basically a scree slope. It wasn't solid rock, but there wasn't much soil around, more or less loose rock. I've seen Scots pine and aspen growing out of rock faces before now. Any indicators to tell you what woodland type it should be if its ecologically important?
  10. I suppose somebody has to like it! It's made me a fair bit of dosh over the years, but I still hate it.
  11. Surely its still more important to get the cuts and practical aspects like sharpening right. So long as you know that TPO's, felling licenses, Conservation Areas, etc exist and you need to ask about them you should be OK. You're being assessed on your competence to fell trees and work a chainsaw, not apply for all the relevant licenses and permissions. Be aware of the legal stuff, but make sure your cuts are right. Oh, and good luck, hope it goes well.
  12. This may be a silly question, but what type of solic rock? Rowan, for example, seem to be able to grow quite well on a cliff face, but if you're talking about a severly compacted site, like an ex quarry, I wouldn't be sure what could get a root down. Willow perhaps? Pretty sure (if you really need to plant something, rhododendron will grow anywhere but please don't do it!
  13. I get all my hi-vis stuff from HVW (Hi-Vis Workwear) on-line. I think they do a full range of railways compliant stuff. Google HVW and have a look on their site.
  14. If your winch is powerful enough you shouldn't need to climb or mess around with throw lines. The trees don't look that big, tied at head height should do the job with a decent winch. It does look much more fun dropping them into the river though.
  15. If the diff lock isn't working it could be as simple as the linkage having come apart. I had that happen on the last land-rover trying to pull beech timber out of a field in the snow. The clevis pin at the bottom of the transfer/diff lock lever came out, 30 second fix, about an hour to take the floor etc out to get at the, er, blighter. Sounds like 300 tdi, don't know why you'd retro-fit a 200 tdi to an S plate?
  16. THis has always served me well: Dirty Deeds, Done Dirt Cheap.
  17. I think if its part of a WGS you're covered as it would be integral to the grant application. I think they used to call it a WFL (WGS with Felling License). Others might know better.
  18. If your a subby just now, where's the harm in your current company finding out? Are they going to stop using you as a subby because you're doing a bit for yourself as well? If they are then I'd be wanting to look for something else anyway. I agree, get tools and kit as and when you need it, that's the way I've always done it too. DRS is right, it is difficult to judge how you're going to do without jumping in two-footed, but it is a big step to take, especially if you don't have work rolling in to begin with. If you're right and you can get 2-3 days a week subbying (I forgot about that in my first reply) then at least that gives you some income. Start small would be my advice and get kit when you need it, no sense in laying out a lot of money only for it to sit in a shed not earning for you.
  19. I'd keep working for the firm your with, but try to find work on your own when you're not at work. Saturdays, days off etc. That way you'll be able to judge how much work there is about, how much hastle it is to find it, how much it actually puts in your pocket for the hours you do etc, at least get a taste for self-employed life before you jump in with both feet. If you find there's plenty of work and you really enjoy it then you can give up the job and go for it, but if there's not much work and you find its too much for you then you haven't burnt any bridges. Only my 2 cents, but self-employed isn't for everyone. Not trying to put you off, I think you should go for it, but would ease into it rather than diving straight into the deep end.
  20. Partner
  21. Had a 2.2 for a couple of weeks last year courtesy of BT when one of their vans crashed into the back of the old 110. I was pretty impressed with it on the main roads, got up to speed pretty quick, but found it painful on the more windy roads, constantly changing between 5th and 6th. Used to the Td5, stick it in 5th and off you go. Found the 2.2 pulled a trailer OK as well, but never did all that much towing with it. For having road tyres it did pretty well in the muck as well, TC and anti-stall help I think.
  22. Always prefer Oregon to Husky bars.
  23. I've been told by contracts managers - a few, on various occassions - that they spoke to BT to get a line dropped and the response was that BT's position was that they wouldn't drop the line, but if it was broken they'd come and fix it (for free). I always found this very hard to believe, I always thought that as the guy holding the saw, somehow BT would manage to present me with a bill. Always taken great care around BT lines and never damaged one yet, but I'd be interested to hear if this is true - that if you contact them in advance and they refuse to drop the line that they will rectify any damage. On a side note, I've heard that the only way to get a line dropped is to tell them that THEIR line is in YOUR way and you need it dropped or they will be liable. Does anyone know if this is true?
  24. Agreed.
  25. Axe Men has got a bit silly with all the playing to the camera, apart from Shelby - he looks the full penny short of a shilling, well worth watching. Swamp Loggers, American Loggers, Heli Loggers all well worth a watch.

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