Spruce Pirate

THis has always served me well: Dirty Deeds, Done Dirt Cheap.

I think if its part of a WGS you're covered as it would be integral to the grant application. I think they used to call it a WFL (WGS with Felling License). Others might know better.

If your a subby just now, where's the harm in your current company finding out? Are they going to stop using you as a subby because you're doing a bit for yourself as well? If they are then I'd be wanting to look for something else anyway. I agree, get tools and kit as and when you need it, that's the way I've always done it too. DRS is right, it is difficult to judge how you're going to do without jumping in two-footed, but it is a big step to take, especially if you don't have work rolling in to begin with. If you're right and you can get 2-3 days a week subbying (I forgot about that in my first reply) then at least that gives you some income. Start small would be my advice and get kit when you need it, no sense in laying out a lot of money only for it to sit in a shed not earning for you.

I'd keep working for the firm your with, but try to find work on your own when you're not at work. Saturdays, days off etc. That way you'll be able to judge how much work there is about, how much hastle it is to find it, how much it actually puts in your pocket for the hours you do etc, at least get a taste for self-employed life before you jump in with both feet. If you find there's plenty of work and you really enjoy it then you can give up the job and go for it, but if there's not much work and you find its too much for you then you haven't burnt any bridges. Only my 2 cents, but self-employed isn't for everyone. Not trying to put you off, I think you should go for it, but would ease into it rather than diving straight into the deep end.

Partner

Had a 2.2 for a couple of weeks last year courtesy of BT when one of their vans crashed into the back of the old 110. I was pretty impressed with it on the main roads, got up to speed pretty quick, but found it painful on the more windy roads, constantly changing between 5th and 6th. Used to the Td5, stick it in 5th and off you go. Found the 2.2 pulled a trailer OK as well, but never did all that much towing with it. For having road tyres it did pretty well in the muck as well, TC and anti-stall help I think.

Always prefer Oregon to Husky bars.

I've been told by contracts managers - a few, on various occassions - that they spoke to BT to get a line dropped and the response was that BT's position was that they wouldn't drop the line, but if it was broken they'd come and fix it (for free). I always found this very hard to believe, I always thought that as the guy holding the saw, somehow BT would manage to present me with a bill. Always taken great care around BT lines and never damaged one yet, but I'd be interested to hear if this is true - that if you contact them in advance and they refuse to drop the line that they will rectify any damage. On a side note, I've heard that the only way to get a line dropped is to tell them that THEIR line is in YOUR way and you need it dropped or they will be liable. Does anyone know if this is true?

Agreed.

Axe Men has got a bit silly with all the playing to the camera, apart from Shelby - he looks the full penny short of a shilling, well worth watching. Swamp Loggers, American Loggers, Heli Loggers all well worth a watch.

I've heard of it, but thought it was another closed doors committee type thing. I'll look into joining now that I know I can.

I'd be interested to know prices too. Thanks

Its a problem of perception. If someone phoned me up at 7.42 on a Sunday morning I'd be royally pi... um, annoyed. But I know that I work the other 6 days and probably spend a couple of hours a night doing maintenance / paperwork on top. The custormer gets my number from the local shop, paper or wherever, they just see a business selling logs and don't know my circumstances. It could be a someone just coming of a night shift, suddenly remembers to call, who knows. In this day and age people are used to calling call centres at any time for the most ridiculous of reasons, it wouldn't surprise me to find that people view the log business in the same way. Perhaps not so much inconsiderate as ignorant? I think I would go proper mental all the same though if it happened to me:laugh1:.

Enlighten us then.... what PPE do you need to change a lightbulb?

Knew a guy who ran one a couple of years back. From what I remember it was a 51 plate and he was having to get Peugeot parts for it, alternator anyway I think. Don't know if the rest of it was Peugeot or not.

Definitely looks like sitka to me (and I've seen a lot of it), and I'd agree 30-40 years old. Someone's already posted a link to the FC website, but, Felling License regs as I remember them: You need a license to fell more than 2m3 of timber if it is for sale. If not for sale then this increases to 5m3. This is per callander quarter, so you can fell 4.9m3 on March 31st and another 4.9m3 on the first of April, but nothing further until July etc. You do not need a license if the trees are in a garden, park, church yard, not sure about orchard trees or if the trees are less than 7cm dbh in a clearfell situation or less than 15cm in a thinning or if the trees are dead, dangerous or blown. On the basis of the pictures I would say you almost definitely need a license, however if you think that there is a possible exemption I would contact your local FC Conservancy Office and get advice from a Woodland Officer. They will be able to tell you for sure and advise you on the best way to apply for a license, there will almost definitely be a condition to re-stock if you are clearfelling. The grants system used to be fairly straight-forward, but its a long time since I had anything to do with it and I'm led to believe that these days its much more complicated, to the point where you will probably have to get proffessional help with it.

Smokey and the Bandit

Questionnaire 1. How long have you been in the industry? 17 Years 2. Do you have experience of using saws regularly? Yes 3. Which do you find the best for the working industry, battery or fuelled chainsaws and please give reasons for each? Petrol, only ever seen a battery saw recently in the dealers, no experience of them in the work place 4. Do you use any other types of saw? If so please specify: Jig-saw, Circular saw, cut-off saw, silky saw, bow-saw, carpentry saw, see-saw (with the kids) 5. Have you ever used an electric saw? If so please state what you thought about: Never an electric chainsaw a. Ease of use b. Efficiency c. Compared to petrol d. Compared to battery 6. Do you need a ticket to operate a battery chainsaw like you do a fuelled saw, if so which ticket? Don't see why a battery saw is any different to a petrol saw - maintenance aspect of training and certification may need adjusting, but the operation should be the same. In short, yes, I think so, and all the relevant ones to the job being done. 7. If you bought a battery chainsaw, would it be for garden maintenance or the commercial industry? Please state together with reasons. Would consider a battery saw for climbing (commercial industry). Reasons: 1, quieter, easier communication. 2, only used for short periods of time, therefore preserve battery life. 3, eliminates need for re-starting saw or having it idling from the harness. 8. Is the maintenance easier with any particular saw over another? Please also state reasons. No, but bigger saws generally easier to clean as the parts are less fiddly (Casings etc, not carburettors and the like) 9. If you were making a recommendation to a commercial small business owner, what saw would you suggest they purchase and why? Entirely dependant on the nature of the business and what the saw is used to be used for. 10. If you were making a recommendation to a private individual (for use on the own premises) what recommendation would you make and why? Depends on the individual and what the saw is to be used for 11. Any other comments: Would be interesting to know what the purpose of the questionaire is? More specifically than college project

Which NPTC unit covers use of chainsaw from a saddle with reins?

I think the helmet is to protect the head from falling debris when felling, not sure how they stand up to impact from a running saw chain (although something has got to be better than nothing). On this basis I don't think you need the helmet for cross-cutting, only the eye and ear protection you're wearing. I'm willing to be corrected though.

Does it take up all the seats? Or can you still drive it with the saw in?

Yeah, but do you have to take the bar off?

I think there is actually more room (just) in the back of a 90 than a 110 double cab. You might get an 880 with 36" bar in diagonally, but not sure.

Sounds like something that should be discussed somewhere other than the internet?

Is that a Harrier? Can you use it as a MEWP as well?