Goaty

I paid about £400+ about ten years ago for a double sided husqvarna I think it's a 323 with a 60cm cut. I only get to use it half a day at most. It will cut up to finger size width. But I use loppers of chainsaw if a lot is that size.

2002 I had an accident with a defender and 16ft tandem ifor Williams. I was the driver, both passengers hospitalised. Went to court for it. I didn't get charged for it but the boss did for lack of maintainance and records. Before anyone jumps on their high gee gee in a hi vis flapping arms about there was a realistic non usual circumstance in this occasion. The crash was caused by broken leaves in one of the springs. Nuts Bearings Brakes Suspension Hitch Electrics Body Need checking periodically. Things will still fail. But if the paperwork is there your less negligent, as my ex boss found out.

He's not dead. He's looking down in us from cizzer space!

That's how I used to pick apples as a kid-mid twenties. My dad used to prop the ladder. I've also seen him hold the ladder himself go up one side vertical and round down the other side. I'm all for a display of fun and skills at work. Nice one.

The irony is that you are probably likely to have an incident 3ft off the floor. I don't know how it works for those up a tree all day, but I find myself able to do things in such a situation better due to heightened awareness and increased stamina. I assume it's like an adrenalin stimulus. Up a conifer I can hold a heavy branch and flick it around anywhere. On the ground, I'm more likely to trip up or be flicked around by the branch!!!

Yep look good. Nice to see someone using their own initative and skills.

I don't work as a climber, I'm not trained to do it. Never have used a rope for support. Some will frown at these comments perhaps and that's up to them. I personally find ropes restrictive and get in the way and have never relied on them. Therefore I don't attempt to trust them, I know I'm primative for modern arb. However I reckon having climbed trees from an early age, I do have a sensitivity, judgement of wood strength, structure, center of gravity and an awareness of my own capability. So when in climbing mode my awareness is heightened as many have said. I can climb a steel girder spanned shed up and over and down the other side. However if I was on a rope with carabiners etc. I would be very wary, slow. I reckon as already suggested you need to learn to rely on your climbing equipment to trust it more and a fun climb or a few should help. Once it's confidently familiar you should progress. Something a kiwi uncle once said about rugby comes to mind. The only time players get injured is when they are not at the top if their game. I've found this is true. If you feel below par that's when you bang your head or have silly accidents, even in the home. So pushing yourself whilst taking care should help.

It's pay as you go I'm afraid. It is extortionate these days. I'd live to see a breakdown of where the course fees go. After you have got going, either you will be driven to do more or loose interest. See how it goes. As the saying says, Rome wasn't built in a day.

A clove hitch. It does mean you have to go round twice, a knot that once mastered invaluable. It constricts itself when pulled tight against a firm surface underneath it. Then you are free to finish the knot with ease. In the right situation the twice round gives extra tension like a tandem pulley.

I have friends that lectured in colleges last year but now do other jobs. Both the same, management heavy run for max income not excellence. More and more I come to not admire learning and education. I know they falsify achievement grades to keep ratings up. The local institution has failed to provide a curriculum and lecturer on a course, they have used whoever they can to fill the vacancy. Many specialised in radically different subjects. Wasting people's time and in this case their personal money that funds it! No insult to those that teach or have done the course properly. Well done to them. For me what matters is if the person can do the job. I have the pleasure of working with an Eastern European at the moment. He uses his iniative and has developed knowledge and skill in the last 18 weeks that a college wouldn't put in to him in a year or more.

I never fancied the thought of cargo that talks. It's bad enough having to deal with them at the drop of point when your cargo is none talking goods.

This is a good enterprise in both ways. Saves a burden on society. This is why gift aid is given by the government to charities on donations. Looking at how I work, do as much as possible In house. Wash your vehicles etc. today I spent my afternoon renewing components on my vehicle. Cost me 3-4 hours. A garage would of done it quicker but at £35 an hour upwards. I've not spent £70+ today. Your best improvements will be utilising the talent you have onboard. Delegate unless you already do so. The responsibility should nurture your residents in positive ways. Make it their baby. Could you spend profits on long term savers? Hot water solar panels. Heating efficiency of the residency. How about monitoring fuel consumption competitively. I worked with a lazy bunch once. Did little as possible work which would of kept them warmer. Instead they sat with engines running for heaters at breaks! How about some incentive driven targets not in currency but for example, running costs per month versus income. Average out the insurance etc by 12. Only sounds petty pennies, maybe even big outlay. But future will be better. Widen that margin.

That is a weird thing because hurting is personal. Only yesterday I lost control driving on a country lane on ice. I recovered it several times as you do then it twitched again. Going through my mind as I headed for the hedge was "oh no not the front end its expensive." A grabbed handbrake and flung it round so the rear hit the hedge. No damage as the flat back end of the van just spread the weight and the front end remained on the road. I just drove off. A good result on this occasion, my brother lost a finger instinctively trying to save a hose and coupling. We are stupid, but I hate the paperwork of accidents and having to sort things. It probably comes with a good loyal work ethic. Would rarely happen in lazy reluctant work environments. " oh goody the thing is about to get trashed, that means no more work today!"

Something to consider as you eyes and ears are now open to trees and things will change in your view. What I try to do on plantation I do for other people is. Plant oak and beech along with more difficult to achieve 100% mortality species in the 1st year. Then when replanting in the subsequent years plant more sure starters. Prunus padus is one that I use for this. But in your case I would really be calculating final spacings as its personal, whereas for clients I do the best to achieve the aimed result which includes high mortality at economical cost.

Assuming you are not planting in a hard core, crushed up brick soil. Go bareroot 1+1 or 2+1 kind of size. I use a small local supplier who other nurseries round here use. But it depends where you live as well, they say local grown thrives better. The only place I've seen any difference is international relocation! Being the old style of small business many won't have a web presence either, yet they will be among the best. Due to my nursery background I always prune roots and top growth before planting. For example silver birch I tend to skin them to a stick to push growth upwards, you never keep anything in the bottom 2-3 ft long term so why waste the energy? Roots I trim so I can fit in an ADEQUATE size hole with no roots bent upwards, this is a big failing of many cheap labour I don't care planters along with shoved to one side root systems. Trimming seems harsh but creates superior roots especially for transplanting later. Hence 1+1 etc. Post planting vegetation control is probably even more important.

It does depend on what you are after as barchams as mentioned if after big stuff among many others. All nurseries like any business will have below par stock. Personally I've never seen any gain in dormant season planting of cell grown. If you do go with cell grown. Make sure the top is sealed in. That is the plug top needs to be covered with soil and firmed in. The compost dries out faster than soil due to the airy nature of it. Also some will spring out if their holes, pushed by the new roots. I haven't replied to your other thread as I've not had the web for two days.

I think it happens more with age. When you are young and unshackled in many ways, you just do it, because your free to do so. With age comes reality cautious reasoning. Less energy. I find you need to have a dump, a clear out of all the excess dead weight you are carrying. From the sphinctor and lifestyle in similar ways. The other equation is time or money, you need them both in balance with good well being. Lots of work plenty of money. No time to spend it. Little work, no money but plenty of time to spend it. This year needs to be an "I am" year for me.

Agreed. I only went once at dentist recommendation. Cost me receding gums and enamel across 4 teeth. I'll dremell myself before that happens again. At least I can feel the demolition work going on. It shows the skill of the porting dudes. My hygienist would of converted it into a Wankel engine!

I found it refreshing in nz, they have barely opened the roll. Look at this photo. It's last December the doorway to a branch of a large chain of agri merchants Yes those are 20-25ltr cropspray chemicals, just walk in with gumboots and shorts. Grab a barrel, slap it in the counter. Pay. Sling in back of ute. Drive off. "She'll be right!" Whereas here you feel guilty of heinous crime just asking.

Mmmmh , but you drive like you stole it or are you a gear down rev down man?? To be bad and judge you on your avatar you could be the clarkson kind "POWER!!" Only winding you up. I don't know how to soothe the tone with smiley faces on the iPhone app!

18!!!!! Well done on the long term thinking. It was a goal of mine as a teenager to do what you are doing. Think in stages. What trees will look magnificent long term left on site at a final wider spacing. Such as sequoia, oak , beechThen 1/2 or a 1/3 between have medium term timber trees, pine, Douglas fir. Then an early crop for firewood alder and birch and timber for fencing posts such as larch. Trees suggested are top of head as example only. Site and soil plus other factors to think about. Trees are. Cheap better to plant close and get them away than to have them spread eagled and bushy low plants. Being of a nursery background I would even plant in rows at 2ft apart and rows to your machinery width. Using such as birch and alder. With the long term species interspersed at their spacings. Use bamboo canes and tie them straight. After 4-5 years either get equipment and lift your self. Or arrange a nursery to come and take them to sell on. The income for this will make the whole project I'm profit early. You do need to assess whether you have the skills and interest and time to do it. Also if any nurseries in a worthwhile distance would be interested in 6ft + plants. Later a contractor such as ruskins who are on arbtalk. May come and Treespade large rootballed trees out for good money(better than firewood or fencing posts) to use on golf courses etc. There are regulations on what trees you can grow and sell to transplant. But I would get the general idea first and deal with that later or a nursery may sort that under their growing regime. Lots to think about if you do this and it's worth leaving it another year to get it right. However you could buy small trees, line them out close in closer rows then lift them to transplant again next year. If kept well they will benefit more from the replant. You will have bigger plants for your £s and be on schedule.

Prunus padus (bird cherry) and lime are two others. I'm assuming conifers would look out of place, but western red cedar, would provide timber long term and nesting habitat.

It's suprising what a compact will do. If it's scratting and cutting corners being held back in the woods with the trailer loaded you know the trailer is the gaffer weight wise. Looking at what has been shown and discussed here I would go for it and if hills are hard on it just lighten the weight. It will be more trips but kit will fare better. The way to think of it is if you had an even smaller tractor you would be carrying even less and using a smaller trailer. If it's viable and work comes in upgrade later.

I was thinking how the thread was dynamite once. Maybe the girls are not as good these days! A bit celeb and fake. Plus we are all older an less interested.

How many times have you had to be in earshot of that stevie:laugh1: You are the voice of experience on this though I imagine. Your inventory of gear you've had would read like an art kit angoraks book I think.