Goaty

Sounds like the neighbour is a pile of hemorrhoids with nowt better to do. Obviously lots of time to waste. Do these sort of people actually get any joy out of their pathetic lives. Sorry non constructive post, but I feel sorry for the client.

Many people I have come across never change car engine oil, check tyre pressures etc. seems to work fine for them!

Despite that there is always threads on what to pay. Surprised this hasn't had a result yet. It would've helped if the title was more specific. For example. "Stump grinder operator rates" I have never operate one so don't know, but applying my own machinery experience imagine it works like this. Start at a reasonable rate not minimum wage. Give incentive, which I would give this some thought. You do not want someone rushing to get home on pay. They need to be encouraged to be efficient, safe and keep damages to a minimum. If after a while it's going well, up their pay. Some bosses are greedy and when it's going well they just think just they deserve the extra income/profit. It's a hard balance. In time both you and your employee will gain from an upgrade or replacement machine. I would right down the pros and cons of incentives on strips of paper and prioritise delete as appropriate put them in order, only you know where your aiming to go. From your previous posts you come across as an enthusiastic, hard working person with a pleasant go get attitude without being arrogant or abrasive. Hope it all works out. Don't risk running a machine with someone your not confident in using it. Worst case scenario could be a nightmare!

I think it's sarcasm at how stuff gets listed on eBay, stuff is sold as in good usable condition when it's actually had it's usable life.

This is something that bugs me. Why do people not think??? If you have a yard or a reasonable parking area why do people park bang in the middle and mess it up for everyone? I never got the taking the dog for a walk via car thing either. A couple of country lanes I know, I wouldn't want to cycle or walk down. Due to commuted hound droppings. Then when they do bag it, they fling it into trees or hedge!!! To suspend ever after.

That's quite a summary

This does happen, especially when the break is diagonal. As you say it's only occasional. I tend to watch out for large knots or other causes.

He's enjoying his new freedom to sling it on large. Go easy on the lad.

I agree. I've gone back to manufacturers a few times and mentioned issues with the fore comment this isn't a complaint.... Then the issue or observation. Open channel of communication does lead to progress and better end result. I've found my sugiharas hard wearing and prefer the bars without resin. Never gone up to milling size with one though.

Yes my bad it's GTW . Rushed to finish reply. Payload is an incredible 650kg Trying to demonstrate how inconveniently useless it is to not have trailer licence and a legal heavy towing vehicle.

My summary Modern pickups are numb,cumbersome either designed for crash impact or ego fillers especially in 4 door form. The small vans carry as much volume wise. 20 yr ago I used to carry a small ride on inside my escort van. Pick ups in 2 door form in the 80s were much smaller than now and would carry a decent ride on. I am aiming to gets pick up at some point. For two reasons. 4x4 to get to the job to save time. Rather than carry gear on foot. And more importantly to tow that heavier trailer. Currently I have a MAM 2550kg Van weighs 1250kg Indespension 2600kg maximum weight plant trailer weighs 550kg Which means my towing payload on trailer is 2550-(550+1250)=750kg on a trailer that can carry 2050kg I have the licence to drive Hgvs but am hindered by my vehicle to actually use my licence to fuller capacity. I as others suggest if you really want to make progress get the test done. That comes from someone who hates Tests it's one of the few things in life that stresses me. Your pickups potential from a business point of view is currently not fulfilling half it's potential!

Yes nice job. I'd forgotten how hard it is to random plant, I automatically look for and find lines! It is hard keeping the spacing similar and un uniform to me as its automatic behaviour. What's your plan for after care? Got a ride on? It looks as though it would work there. Much of what I've planted still has tree stumps from previous felling.

Brilliant point. Why does everyone care what everyone thinks it is messing with a lot of people's heads! Image, image all the time. I'm so uncool no one knows which pigeon hole to put me in. It would be fun to be a gibbon on speed but we are human.

Ever seen a fab web forum done by a subby climber? But I know what you mean if your naff at it leave it to an expert. But there are some sites are there done by experts with their name in the bottom corner. The content can be horrendous, you can tell they know naff all about what they have put together. It's like buying a Chinese or Eastern European item with instructions phonetically translated to English. Looks real un pro! Plus if you make your own site. It can be changed, instead of that dated 1997 poplar dismantle with 90s gear, you can put your shiny new kits first outing on the web. A firm I drive for use a 13 old photo in the local advertiser papers, when they have had two brand new trucks in the last year????

Great stuff,I thought maybe predictive had done it for you.

When they are folded fully in artic full lock they are not so stable. Same with artic telehandler. This applys all the more if boom is away from the floor. As mentioned center if gravity. Whereas a rigid is more like a person on their hands and knees safe. It's probably what anyone is used to. You get a feel for the limits. An artic does tend to be more sure footed being front heavy.

Really first port if call to ask is rob d. Give him a couple of days to reply. He is a busy man. Who does lots of things.

No more like http://www.weedbadger.com/video.php

What's the Latin for that then proffessor Bolam??

I do prefer random planting and we put a lot of thought in to the long term end result of what trees are going to end up where spaced well. I did do a charity planting like this but the reality is, people get excited about planting the tree. But like the little red hen story they not so forthcoming strimming on a hot summers day. I push for no herbicide establishment hence the weedbadger investment. I'm hoping to make it work out at the same price as spraying and mowing. Some fine tuning on equipment required. My personal thoughts on herbicides in tree care are they do work in helping by suppressing weed growth. Whilst at the same time just from own experience I think roots are affected, more old and brittle than they should be. But I'm not a scientist. I don't trust their use.

Here's one we did a year after planting. Photo taken last October. The tall guards are the long term trees protected against deer and the rest are not so important. Guards under powerlines have only shrubs of low final height, this plantation is primarily a visual screen against an industrial installation for a community . It's maintained by cultivation and a weedbadger interrow vineyard type cultivator. The picture shows after cultivation but before weedbadger attack. This is a grant scheme job which was not managed last summer. It was higher than the guards in bracken. Here it has been rolled to flatten bracken. The plan is either asulox herbicide or rolling this year.

Look forward to the photo finish!

Strainrite the fencing equipment makers do them.

First stakes then trees and guard up. You can bash all the stakes I. First if you want. Reason being in a forestry or grant situation the spacing is more accurate to get the number per area right and much neater which is better for upkeep later. Personally I stake out first row. Maybe with a line but rarely is the lie if the land that good. Each stake measured out. Then repeat for second row. Then a stake diagonally between end and next to end stake accurately with one in the middle if the row also measured spot on then sight in the rest. I only measure the row spacings after that. Each stake initially will be inline diagonally in two directions and the row plus perpendicular every other row. When you get going in a big block after a few rows you will get two more diagonals if you do it well at different angles to the originals. Not only can this be satisfying, much easy to go through with machinery mowing etc. Sorry that's long winded. Hammers are a pain for bashing stakes they mush the tops making it harder for the folded slot type guards to go on. But not a problem for tie in type. I use a mini DIY post driver made from box section with added weight in the top and a T bar handle at the top. Always plant on same side of stake. Please plant roots pointing down not bent up or doubled back in the slit or hole. We always do a row or two then guard up. Then none are exposed over night. Plan on a hundred per person per day. Doesn't sound a lot, there is a lot of carting and working out, mixing tree varieties and other things to input.

Yep second that,you was fun to read on arbtalk. I hope it turns out better in the future for you. All the best to you.