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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. spudulike
    You are going through the same as I am just in a different part of the industry. I keep getting asked to port saws and the customers expectation is that I can take their 15 year old wreck of a saw with a cheap Chinese top end and make it in to a world beating hot saw. Well....it ain't going to happen!! Your dilemma is slightly different. You either sort of do what your customer wants even if it goes against your ethics, views, opinion, knowledge, preference or, if you can afford to walk, that is what you do. Very difficult if you are needing your business to pay to put a roof over your head and food on the table and on that occasion, I guess you have to meet your customers expectations and lower your standards. If you are relatively well off and don't give a damn.....do what you want and buy a deck chair and a good supply of books and beer!
  2. spudulike
    The top throttle lock will only pop up if the throttle trigger is fully released which it isn't in your pic. This can be due to the carb throttle spring being broken or the spring on the throttle trigger breaking. you really need to pop the air filter cover off and look at the cable end and see if the cable has chafed/broken, if the carb spring has broken etc
  3. spudulike
    Fully or semi synthetic oil is fine. They are saying don't use some old no brand two stroke oil for low performance slow revving engines. Personally I would stick with Stihl or Husqvarna semi synthetic as it isn't too expensive and is designed for the type of engine you have. I use Stihl HP Super (green oil) at 50:1 on the kit I get in. If you are an occasional user and want to leave fuel in the saw all the time, perhaps an Alkalyte fuel is worth looking in to. Husqvarna, Aspen and Stihl all do their own types - much comes down to what your local dealer stocks.
  4. spudulike
    How have you done the clutch up? You really need to use a rattle gun and hex type tool or to lock the piston in place and use the hex tool again and a socket wrench. If it is just spun on, if you fire the machine up, the clutch will try to spin off as the engine spools down messing up the mesh between the pinion and the clutch drum. You can overcome this by slamming on the chain break as soon as the saw starts and revs up for the very first time as it does the clutch up.
  5. spudulike
    I have been using the "ignore" function more and more, some of the Covid threads were incensing me and to use the "Ignore" button was the best way of dealing with it as I said on numerous occasions....time will tell with all of it! I just hope that what is left is worth coming on the site for!
  6. spudulike
    Job done: - Scabbard 16-18" for Stihl Chainsaws - 0000 792 9175 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Scabbard 16-18
  7. spudulike
    0.3HP MS200t to the MS201TC-m. You are correct on the rest of it. I find the 201 is grabby on getting going compared to the MS200T that has a smoother delivery and more low down grunt in the cut.
  8. spudulike
    And so would I!
  9. spudulike
    Yes, of course, no competition at all!
  10. spudulike

    Big logs

    spudulike replied to Kemar's topic in Woodcraft Forum

    Great track!
  11. spudulike
    Got my Toms (cherry and normal), peppers and courgettes in a heated propagator yesterday. Hoping that this spring will be as early as the last few years and will get early crops off them. Will be careful with late frosts but will see how it works out!
  12. spudulike
    I think it would have to be a thick washer from the wear on the clutch
  13. spudulike
    From the wear on the clutch, it looks like the clutch isn't sitting inside the drum as it should. This could be down to the clutch drum not meshing with the pinion correctly - sometimes happens when the machine is spooling down, the clutch unwinds itself and then winds back up in the wrong position - seen it when the clutch has been removed and not tightened up really hard once refitted. You could grind the high part off the clutch but may be better to refit a new one. Here is how it should look: - note the clutch sits INSIDE the drum!
  14. spudulike
    It looks like the clutch doesn't completely sit in the drum from the wear on the clutch.
  15. spudulike
    Only seen that once before when the guy power jetted the saw and then left it and the needles rusted the crank. Look at the clutch under a magnifying glass looking for damage to the hardened surface and feel for notches and if they are present, swap it out. L&S do sell aftermarket parts but mostly for Stihl machines. If the spare came in a Husqvarna bag or it was advertised as being OEM then it will be. They are a reputable company purchasing from the manufacturers directly. Do you over tighten your chain? Grease is usually thrown off the bearing in seconds so unlikely to be the issue. Most likely getting too hot because of leaving the brake on or excessive chain tightness.
  16. spudulike
    That is how it is....you asked, I gave and now you do
  17. spudulike
    Interesting, never seen anything like that before!
  18. spudulike
    If the chain is spinning on at low revs then it is likely to be clutch springs, knackered needle bearing, something binding between the clutch drum and clutch or the clutch having spun off and then tightened without being meshed with the oiler pinion correctly. Springs are spring steel - they can all crack including the forking great springs on your car!!
  19. spudulike
    Running on? Are the revs elevated or are we saying the chain is spinning on low revs. Check the clutch springs, perhaps one has gone and check the needle bearing as well seeing as it failed before.
  20. spudulike
    http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/74993d6bb263f3d988256b52001a10de?OpenDocument I got on of these off eBay once, lovely condition, think I shipped it to France in the end. Nice machine!
  21. spudulike
    I think Gardenkit ran a strimmer on straight petrol once and I am not sure he ever made it seize. It was 2T but, because strimmers run at lower revs than saws, it lasted a surprisingly long time. No idea on your 4T machine but I would load it up with the correct fuel and see what happens. Hopefully it will continue to work .....if you are lucky! It is a bit pointless stripping it all down if the thing is running OK and not showing any issues.
  22. spudulike
    The saw has been designed as it is so you must be missing something and wouldn't recommend grinding springs etc. There is a bloke on this site by the name of "Echo". Not sure if it is bravado or he actually works for the company. Perhaps he can assist. Other than that, you need to compare another machine that works with yours and look for differences. I don't get enough in to know but I can say that the manufacturer didn't make it that way. Was the spring the correct one? If it was to long in its compressed state, that would do it.....I know grinding off.......it is a safety device....get it wrong and the 2 mins of bleed out up a tree don't sound good!
  23. spudulike
    No, Sold it on ebay years ago...ended up a nice saw and saw it up for sale again years later!
  24. spudulike
    Sometimes it is best just to get on with it. The muffler could have been stuck back on the saw and then sent back but...you want a 200T................. one with a new top end will be a damn site better than most of the eBay ones that will have cheap Chinese top ends.A new top end makes soooooo much difference to these saws! Get a new top end, strip it, clean it, replace all the iffy parts and you will have a decent saw and one that you know what it is made of. It will take you days to try to get it sent back....just make it in to a real nice saw.
  25. spudulike
    I'm getting too damn old to pull em over!!

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