spudulike

Probably right but desperate men do desperate things worth trying as if this goes on much longer, it will be like triggers brush!! Did the plug get swapped out? I had an MS200t with a loose centre electrode once and it was a bit like yours. Stick with NGK or Bosch!

But what about the fuel tank breather? If you are sucking out fuel, you need to let air in otherwise the saw exhibits running out of fuel symptoms. It will look like this....pull it off and you should be able to suck air through it relatively easily. If it has sealed up, it needs replacing. Tank Vent for Stihl MS201, MS201C - 0000 350 5802 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Tank vent Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 0000 350 5802 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: MS 201, MS 201 C...

All I will add is a bad acoustic will have a high action and will frustrate very quickly. Nylon strings are a lot easier but a lot depends on the music you want to play. I have a semi acoustic in the collection - Ibanez version of the Gibson 335....It wears 10s and plays far easier than many steel strung acoustic guitars playing the same as an electric guitar and will allow for a decent amount of string bending. It is relatively thin so isn't that loud without an amp but may be a good halfway house if learning the guitar or go for a thicker bodied semi for more volume.

I had similar with a 236 today...it had shyte in the gauze strainer plus the fuel tank breather was blocked. Have you tested the breather or just removed it and tried the saw again? Worth a punt if not.

The only thing with Bass is that you don't get the satisfaction of saying to your mates...listen to this and them recognizing the riff unless it is really recognizable...Dancing in the Moonlight for example or Cant Stand Losing You! If you have fat fingers then it would be a good choice, I am always hindered by this but I tweak the guitar nut to give me an extra mm and buy guitars with slightly wider neck which solves much of the problem. This guitar effects unit I have allows you to play Bass on your guitar....The first four strings on a guitar are tuned the same and I have a patch allowing a really convincing Bass sound from a guitar which is good for learning riffs and producing a bass line for a loop. As far as kit - I would avoid spending a fortune but do get reasonable kit not super cheap crap and get it either tested by a decent player or get it set up by a Luthier or someone that knows his onions - probably the best £75 you will spend! Plenty of vids and news of even top guitarists using relatively cheap guitars - Mike Rutherford was playing Squire Bullets during the Pandemic.....you can get "Cheap" playing like expensive relatively easily! A simple drum machine keeps you in time which is also something that can be an interesting concept when starting out! Just set the BPM slow if you can't keep up and learn the technique. Loads of vids on Youtube.....missed all that in the 80s when I was trying to learn!

Interesting stuff, I have come across the string tree issue before and you learn an awful lot just doing and then find out others are making vids but each one gives you a bit more info. I saw one vid of a fella stripping everything off a Les Paul, including the beading, neck (set in) and neck capping.....he was obviously more talented than anything I have done. Lots of heat and then...bingo...amazing.

It looks like it!

Using your blocking the strato - this would richen the mixture so the theory is it is under fuelling so you need to richen the H screw - see what this does. It should make some sort of difference...eventually! If blocking the strato does help it pick up revs, it shouldn't be the HT system as it wouldn't improve if it was. Sounds like we need more fuel then! Worth removing the air filter - it should make it worse!

Interesting, it sounds like it is almost running rich to start with. Have you tried leaning the H screw down? Does this make it worse? Does richening it up make it better or worse? Have you tried removing the air filter? Does it make it...................

I call myself a £200 guitarist....all my guitars have been acquired for £200 or less but don't play like the price tag. Taking a guitar with a bad action and losing the high frets, crowning them, rounding the fret ends etc is part of the game. Latest acquisition was a Zoom G3X foot pedal, the drum machine, Looper and patches have been great fun, makes even my attempts sound almost good! Great bit of kit!

It looks like the scored side will be the inlet side. Better check the air filter as scoring on this side is usually crud getting past the filter. That piston would need the corresponding and correct cylinder to go with it but wouldn't work with your carb, muffler etc.

If you check what I said and it is still no good, try the accelerator pump, it may be that but do the easy stuff first. Make sure the black plastic support ring is still on the manifold side of the carb. People lose them and can't be bothered to replace them!

Possibly a MS201 piston??

The old piston is a normal piston and doesn't look scored and the other piston is a strato one. I don't think the MS210 was ever a strato saw! Check your order with what you have got and you can return to L&S if the parts are unused and in the original packing. I always try to avoid this but have had to on a couple of occasions and it has always been sorted. What part did you order - they have the Stihl IPL (Parts lists) online and is relatively easy to order. Most kits appear to be 40mm!

I would hazard a guess that a damn large percentage of houses out there are below C rated and many will never be able to achieve it and make the investment cost effective. Most older houses won't suit current heat pumps, the best that can be done is LED lighting, double glazing and thicker loft insulation - the rest of it just isn't cost effective. If you look at housing on Rightmove, if you find an EPC rating of C, the house is generally a new build or has some form of solar panels on its roof. The sad thing is that doing this is pissing in the wind as the decimation of the rain forests and the Chinese manufacturing machine bulging out shyte in to the atmosphere are by far the higher causes of global warning. Best save the £££ and fund the Brazilians etc to halt deforestation and to plant loads of trees to turn it back and better not mention overpopulation!!!

Probably just flooded, dry it out as previously stated and try again.

150-170psi....if the plug is wet, more fuel will not help!

You need to check the compression or pull the muffler and look at the piston unless you have enough experience to KNOW it is good. If the compression is OK, pull the plug, turn the saw upside down, pull the saw over hard to clear any unburnt fuel, try heating the plug up on a gas stove or using a plumbers lamp, refit, don't use any choke, open the throttle fully and pull the saw over hard - a bit redneck but it may clear the issue. You have probably missed the first pop of the saw and flooded it when you tried starting it.

Have you unscrewed No 3 on this diagram and blasted a bit of cleaner through it and down the hole it screws in to? Stihl MS 181 Chainsaw (MS181C) Parts Diagram, Carburetor C1Q-S122B WWW.DIYSPAREPARTS.COM View Stihl MS 181 Chainsaw (MS181C) Parts Diagram , Carburetor C1Q-S122B to easily locate and buy the spares...

Sounds like it isn't getting enough fuel. Do the easy stuff first - carb gauze strainer is the most likely issue - if it is filled with wood-chip, drain and check the fuel tank as well as cleaning the strainer. Other than that, it may be an air leak or split fuel line.

Recently fixed the tumble dryer - it had sludge in the bottom of some sort of small open tank at the back so the machine thought the main catchment tank was full and then fitted new batteries in two electric toothbrushes. Why the batteries aren't normal rechargeable ones defies me but fixed the things and should be good for a few years more. I always wonder how much kit gets thrown away because of simple faults. One solution is to triple the price of "Stuff" ....that should put us back to the 1950-70s and should sort it!

WD40 or white spirit, scotch bright, soak the chain in diesel or white spirit, attach to saw and rev like a good un whilst taking caution to stand to one side in case it frees and comes loose!!!!

Shuddup Toyah

Sounds a little more promising. I am not 100% sure but...please stay with me.....some pumps use an angled shaft end and the adjuster moves its end further to the edge of the shaft to increase the shaft throw/movement thus increasing the flow or closer to the middle thus reducing the shaft movement/throw thus........ reducing the flow. I had a 661 in recently and the request was for more oil usually done by bringing the adjuster closer to the edge of the shaft but the adjuster had two positions, high and low and the adjuster had two diameter ends both giving two oiler positions only. My thinking is the MK2 550XP is probably the same....ADW will chime in soon if he isn't delving in to the Downton Abbey box DVD set again....or does he use VHS...maybe even Betamax The grease is probably as you say, just assembly grease from around the oil pinion, clutch bearing etc...not had much new kit in tbh....most are old bangers!

Joe means a 0.325 pitch 1.3mm gauge rather than the normal 0.325 1.5mm gauge. I did a lot of trials of my own on the Oregon 95VPX 1.3 chain on my 357 and it was 15% faster. You are basically cutting out a much thinner channel with the narrow kerf chain - like comparing a 1" wood chisel to a 1/8th" chisel - the narrower one uses much less of a mallet wallop!! Oregon don't make the VPX anymore but I believe they do an alternative - you also need a ProLite bar to go with it or a suitable equivalent.