spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Funny that, I also sharpen drills by eye on a grinding wheel. Once you understand how the cutting parts of the drill are formed, It works well.
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Got to love this repairing gig - here are some more gripes apart from crappy dirty machines in dangerous condition - Saws being sent in via courier with just a bin liner wrapped round the saw for protection.....you know who you are!!! I fix a saw in 1-2 weeks and then find the owner hasn't got the £££ to pay so I then wait weeks for him to save up whilst his saws fill my workshop. Think I will go back on holiday.
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Is that quite quiet All nylon mesh air filters need a good dousing with fluid and blasting with an air compressor every week or so. Water is no good and as ADW says, they often look clean but are often completely blocked causing the saw to run like it is on partial choke or leaning on AT saws. Best one was a saw in from France with this as the running issue!
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Quite possibly. If the compression is through the floor, no but if the compression is on the low side, it may well fire cold and run then not restart when hot. I would be looking at the compression and carb at first. I am guessing the saw won't start on the fast throttle start setting. This may be a poorly adjusted carb (low speed or idle), a carb issue (dirt, damaged parts), the choke not sealing correctly or a number of other carb related issues. Basically the carb isn't giving the saw enough fuel to start and that may be down to the carb, the compression or even a big air leak can cause it. May be worth taking it to someone good at fixing kit. Generally a good one can tell in minutes if not seconds what the fault may be.
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I have seen the same, usually when the rail slot is excessive but the fella said it was lacking power and normally a worn bar will allow the engine to rev like bonkers but cut near to zero chip.
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Not got it and I am not Stihl affiliated so cant do warranty repairs although if I get kit in under warranty, I give the customer the option.
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Moved to the dark side! Got the same machine model with same fault to look at next week. These battery machines are like working on hairdryers, no soul!
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I am and I like to keep in touch.
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I know a good psychological Doctor!
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Ah, the orange?
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Yup, they are good for softwood trimming but hit a bit of well seasoned dead wood, you risk shearing the driveshaft. You can use the fine cut blades to lessen the risk and the time it saves does have good payback.
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Did someone say Stihl HT131.... surely not. And I do know.....
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Haven't mentioned the cling film wrap and plastic bag yet?
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The earlier ones had a greasing screw, the later ones had no screw and are sealed. Just take the attachment off, take the gbox off and turn the output shaft lightly both ways. If it feels notchy, tight, rough or there is a lot of backlash in the gears, the thing is suspect.
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As others have said, 70psi isn't enough to support combustion. It is possible that your garage tested the saw with a tester for cars allowing the engine to be continuously cranked. You need something like a gunson hi gauge with the very soft tip mounted Schrader valve. It may be worth removing the muffler for a look at the piston and the carb may be a possible cause but difficult to tell if the whole machine has been stripped and rebuilt for one reason or another.
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Have you checked the compression or viewed the piston through the exhaust port? Sounds like low compression to me. Most stone cutters are generally abused and stone dust isn't forgiving in bearings or the bore!
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They are available online if you search, some suppliers do have them, L&S engineering being one.
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The bore is the most likely area that would suffer if the oil was not doing what it should. Saying that, Homelite kit is cheap homeowner stuff now so wouldn't worry too much about it. Use it until it blows!
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I would understand if the kit was out of stock but being told it was in stock (a possible sales ploy to stop you going elsewhere) they have dropped a bollock underestimating the lead times on the parts. I would point out what you were told, what your reasonable expectation was, what it has ended up being and ask them how they are going to appease this issue. If you are a long standing customer etc then use this as leverage. I don't like sales crap and can sniff it out after a 13 year stint in that profession. Nothing beats good communication and a realistic approach!
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3/4 on low is no good, 1 to 1+1/4 is more typical and 3/4 will give starting issues and bogging on pulling the throttle!
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Plug failure is rare and rarer on the 14mm ones. Dropping them is one reason for failure. I use NGK and have done since my biking days and never had a bad one although I do get them from an approved dealer rather than....elsewhere!!!
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Got an old cordless Erbauer drill and it has been pretty good. Also looked at an Einhell hedge trimmer as it had locked up and it was pretty poor!
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It has what I call the Husqvarna large mount. It will share the same bar and chain with saws such as the Husqvarna 365, 365, 372, 390, 395etc I had one of these saws once, a decent pro saw with a lot of go!
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Spares wise, Stihl are by the far the easiest saws to get spares for, Husqvarna are OK but generally take longer and Makita are about the same. These are my own opinions and other opinions may differ. Skylands on here do Husky and Echo spares with L&S engineering doing Stihl, Makita and Husqvarna. If I were to order an OEM clutch for a mainstream saw, Stihl would be here in two days, Husqvarna in a week and Makita 1.5 weeks!
