spudulike

Bloody hell Joe, top marks, top of the class and I never thought I would say that. Bang on my friend, the CAT is the limiting factor and it is still sat there with everything going through it.....and that is BAD!

Yup, think Stubbys been on the US sites!

Well it is bloody obvious to me, can't see why no one else has commented on it!

No, no, no, not the burning of ones kecks!

Sounds like we are getting there. Just need to learn about how to file which is pretty easy tbh, remember to take care with the depth gauges once the cutters start getting filed down significantly. All good and hope the thing is beginning to perform now. You could try a new chain and you will then see how a chain should cut although many will say they can file a chain to work better than that

Your "friend" is a very naughty boy. I have to climb a tree to test all the top handle saws I fix. Unfortunately, there are now no trees taller than 5 foot for a ten mile radius of my workshop because of this law. It is very annoying.

Ha, manuals are for girlies...we are men, and men don't need manuals

Lets see what JR comes back with on the chain tension, oiler efficiency issues and see where that ends up....hopefully after he has re adjusted his carb!

Word of mouth is probably the strongest marketing so you need to always go that extra mile to discuss the job, be pleasant and do what you say you will. Exceeding the customers expectations is always sound. Any reviews - Google, Forums etc are worth having. I guess Arbtalk is my website but it is worth having some sort of online content even if it is just a single webpage with a bit about you. Local papers are worth a punt.

Give the side of the muffler, just in front of the rib, a tap with a hammer, the front will come off revealing a couple of more screws either side of the exhaust port!

We may sort this before 2021....hopefully!

Firstly - TURN THE "H" SCREW 1&1/2 TURNS OUT.....failure to do this will seize the machine.........3/4s turn is with the limit "plastic" caps fitted. Sorry for shouting but I have seen MS880s seized like this and don't need the work! So, the machine runs better now and am not surprised with the carb being an extra turn out before. Check the oiler - just fire up the saw with the side cover and bar off, rev lightly and wait for a trickle of oil to make its way down the side of the saw. Check the oil hole in the bar is clear of chip - that's the little hole that is in line with the oiler channel in the bar mount on the saw. Once the bar is on etc, fire the saw up, point the end of the bar at something like a clean cut piece of wood, a piece of card etc, rev the saw and it should make a clear line of oil as it is thrown off the bar. Make sure you don't contact anything with the bar tip but this is a basic and best test for correct oiling. Finally, when you have tensioned the chain correctly, if you hold the shaft of a screwdriver behind one of the teeth and whizz the chain forward with it, should turn freely and carry on spinning for a short while (1-3 inches) and NOT stop absolutely dead. My tensioning technique is to put the side cover on, nip it up lightly so you can still move the bar up and down, tighten the chain until the bar tip starts to lift, hold the chain off the bar by resting your forearm on the chain brake lifting the chain between thumb and forefinger, aim for around 1cm gap between the chain and top of bar and tighten while still lifting. Once let go, the chain should be a light fit around the bar and the spin test above should work as described.

Air leaks from the clutch side crank seal and inlet manifold!

Nope!

Going back to my comments and the later comments about the bar and chain, one more thing to try, whip the bar and chain off, replace the clutch cover and then rev the saw and see if it sounds a lot more peaky and revs very much higher. The bar and chain do seem pretty tight, have you checked the oiler is throwing out decent amounts of oil? with no bar and chain on, it should dribble out of the bottom of the saw in good amounts if revved flat out for 5-10 secs.

If you want to learn about saws and have spare time, fill your boots. They are good enough machines but pretty heavy by todays standards. It looks like it needs a damn good clean.

There is one fundamental issue with this mod though, I will leave you to work it through!

The muffler bracket also supports it being a 50cc. There are only two types of bore, 42mm and 44.3mm, the rest are Chinese versions of the original. Best try to clean the bore, 346XPs tend to score a bit more than most but worth a try then if OK, stick a Meteor piston in it. These saws have a couple of issues worth checking on rebuild and take a little more care than some but other than that, plain sailing!

Interesting!

Right, two issues, the main one is that the saw just isn't hitting top revs as it should - I reckon about 6000rpm instead of around 13000rpm. This could be caused by: - 1) Throttle not opening the carb fully - On the bench - just get the top cover off, hold the throttle open and see if you can get to the side of the carb and try to open the carb more with the bit the throttle rod pushes in to. 2) Choke is partially on - take the air filter off and see if the choke is fully off - that is it is not covering the bore but is parallel to the carb bore for maximum air flow. 3) Check the air filter isn't blocked - you could try running the saw without it - nylon mesh air filters can look very clean and be completely plugged. 4) Carb settings - should be 1+1 turns out. You could try turning the H screw in to see if the saw top revs increase as they should. 5) It is possible the high speed check valve is faulty but this would kill the idle - your saw sounds like the H screw is 3 turns out hence the smoke and poor revs. 6) I have seen faulty coils do this but usually check everything else and change the coil as a last option as they are a bit £££££ Try not to go aftermarket as they are more fragile. The other issue is that your chain should be chipping better than that and looks pretty blunt - this isn't the main issue, not hitting the power band is the issue!

So to clarify, when run without the bar, you are getting oil coming out of the channel the saw uses to oil the bar and in good amounts? If this is so, and the oil hole is clear in the bar, it should oil. If it doesn't, check the bar oil hole lines up with the channel - sometimes it doesn't if the bar is the wrong one or the bar is at full extension due to a slack and worn chain. Other than that, the oil pump isn't producing enough pressure to push the oil through.

Mityvac, that's the one!

Does the throttle open the carb throttle plate fully? If you hold the throttle open (on the bench, air filter off), you can try to open the carb up further with the linkage plate on the carb where the throttle rod joins the carb and if it does open further then the throttle rod is bent or there is wear in the linkages.

I would start at the basics, if you are getting some devices crashing and not others, the obvious question is why and is it down to the location of the devices etc. Is the complete internet going down or just connection to some devices. Are the devices well away from the router or are they all close? If it is certain devices then you will need to work out why...... The wall thickness and construction is an important factor, flint makes a pretty good Faraday cage and blots out most signals, dry lining stops pretty much nothing! Some devices will be poor at picking up WiFi signal, you can get software on a Lappy and see what the WiFi is giving you in regards to signal. Sometimes devices don't like some of the WiFi encryption ie WAP, WEP and the like, the older ones may not like the later types of encryption etc. From what I have read, the BT router is supposed to be one of the more stable and furthest transmitting ones. I have used Netgear and now Billion, they aren't really complicated TBH, I have only 3mbps in our village....30 miles from Londonand have had to get creative to get the best out of it. The Billion router allows you to monitor the signal coming in to your house and lets you see the upload and download signals using a piece of software as I mentioned which is useful as often if our internet is bad, the upload speed is very choppy. I guess there are people out there that will go through your system and make the necessary changes but here we go again.....there will be good and bad........

Lets face it, the public out there are unwashed lazy bastards that can't even put their rubbish in a bin, in the foot well of their car and then dispose it in a decent way. The idea of kids picking up litter, 100% agree with that as it will stop them dumping their litter on the countryside in their adulthood. It really boils my piss when people drive off leaving a pile of their shyte under their car to then blow around the car park. In the old days our parents would have given us a hiding for littering but now...... I wonder what would happen if I dropped a load of my rubbish in their front garden or bunged it through their litterbox.....sorry letterbox, bet that would raise a comment. I reckon if it wasn't McDs or KFC, it would be Costa, Starbucks or some other outlet so as long as the outlet has sufficient bins then they probably can't do too much apart from marketing campaigns on littering. Some of these lowlifes need to be disciplined as the hedgerows are becoming clogged with this crap lobbed out of cars! Lazy feckers!